OK, this is the boot that I need for my HP2 calipers.
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<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/24789/hp2_caliper.jpg"></center><p>When I was doing a brake job I noticed that both sides had a split in this boot. I would imagine that water and dirt getting in there over time will seize that slider so I want to replace the boot. Some people posted a part number for a seal kit for the HP2, but is this included? I would hate to order the seal kit only to have this not be in there. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Pat
Thanks,
Pat
#2
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<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/76469/untitled.jpg"></center><p>...the pistons, and two ring seals for the pistons.
As you can see, Bentley claims the caliper must be replaced (!) if that dust seal is damaged. I have no idea why this would not be a replaceable part, unless they are worried about any pre-existing dirt/corrosion in there from the boot failure.
As you can see, Bentley claims the caliper must be replaced (!) if that dust seal is damaged. I have no idea why this would not be a replaceable part, unless they are worried about any pre-existing dirt/corrosion in there from the boot failure.
#5
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Search front shock bellows on the B5 S4 forum. Some have used the dust boot from mountain bike front shocks as a ghetto replacement.
I ended up patching my boot. I cleaned it really well first and then used hi temp rtv silicone.
From the US TRW rep, in a conversation over a year ago, they're not even putting out bids for a supplier for this part.
I ended up patching my boot. I cleaned it really well first and then used hi temp rtv silicone.
From the US TRW rep, in a conversation over a year ago, they're not even putting out bids for a supplier for this part.
#6
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Old thread I know, but still relevant.
As I came past you post when I was looking, just thought it would be nice to share my experience on things I didn’t read.
I have been looking everywhere for this rubber sleeve part for the middle guide pin for my Audi Allroad 2001.
I damaged one when I was cleaning the caliper for a complete rebuild. Assuming it would be simple to replace... What a mistake to make...
Currently I used automotive rubber seal (for fixing rubber sleeves like this) to repair the little tear I made. And that’s OK for now (I Hope).
The rubber is still not available at Lucas/TRW. I know because I called the factory in Germany a few weeks ago.
All recondition shops in Holland who specialize in the impossible/old/hard to get told me to give them a call once I have found the solution.... They don’t recondition the unit if the rubber is damaged....
Best advise if you break the caliper into 3 parts to clean it up for repainting (the only way to get into every corner to clean out all the rust and dirt):
I left the aluminum part containing the pistons connected to the car and cleaned it there. The other 2 parts come loose from the car if you remove the 2 bolts and 2 hex drives. I used a air wrench.
The parts you can take from the car, you can pull apart. One side of the rubber sleeve pulls away from the rim it is positioned about easy.
Remove the rubber sleeve on the other side by CAREFULLY putting a thin (!) flathead screwdriver underneath the rubber (which has a steel ring molded into it) at a 45 degrees angle and gently tap it with a hammer. The ring is 'clicked' into place. And will come loose after 1 gentle tap. Use a THIN flathead. You don’t need to use it as a lever!
Refitting is simple: First put the rubber sleeve in place at the end that doesn’t hold the ring. Then apply grease when you put things back together (don’t use copper grease , it messes with ABS, but the white ceramic paste).
Then put the 2 parts together and just compress them together. You'll hear 'click' and the rubber is in place.
Golden tip: Buy a reconditioned set from US company Cardone. For 160 USD (including 50 USD for the exchange unit!) it is a steal...
Compared to dealer prices that is....
--------
Second tip:
When pushing back the brake pads, do not push the oil back into the reservoir. Instead open the bleeder valve and let the brake oil flow back that way. If you do not, you might damage the ABS system. Why run the risk?
Third tip:
After playing around with all kinds of cleaning product to clean up the calipers, I found that a mechanical wire brush works 10 times better the anything else! I use big ones on the angle grinder, A workbench mounted wire brush and 2 smaller ones on a drill. And still I had to use a handheld one for some bits...
Then use a chemical de-ruster.
Fourth tip:
I painted mine with black hammerite and the alu parts with clear varnish. After looking at many other, much more expensive, solutions I realized that if a rally driver I read about uses it, so can I. After all my brakes will never be as hot as his. Ever.
Good luck with your forum and Audi's.
best regards from Holland!
As I came past you post when I was looking, just thought it would be nice to share my experience on things I didn’t read.
I have been looking everywhere for this rubber sleeve part for the middle guide pin for my Audi Allroad 2001.
I damaged one when I was cleaning the caliper for a complete rebuild. Assuming it would be simple to replace... What a mistake to make...
Currently I used automotive rubber seal (for fixing rubber sleeves like this) to repair the little tear I made. And that’s OK for now (I Hope).
The rubber is still not available at Lucas/TRW. I know because I called the factory in Germany a few weeks ago.
All recondition shops in Holland who specialize in the impossible/old/hard to get told me to give them a call once I have found the solution.... They don’t recondition the unit if the rubber is damaged....
Best advise if you break the caliper into 3 parts to clean it up for repainting (the only way to get into every corner to clean out all the rust and dirt):
I left the aluminum part containing the pistons connected to the car and cleaned it there. The other 2 parts come loose from the car if you remove the 2 bolts and 2 hex drives. I used a air wrench.
The parts you can take from the car, you can pull apart. One side of the rubber sleeve pulls away from the rim it is positioned about easy.
Remove the rubber sleeve on the other side by CAREFULLY putting a thin (!) flathead screwdriver underneath the rubber (which has a steel ring molded into it) at a 45 degrees angle and gently tap it with a hammer. The ring is 'clicked' into place. And will come loose after 1 gentle tap. Use a THIN flathead. You don’t need to use it as a lever!
Refitting is simple: First put the rubber sleeve in place at the end that doesn’t hold the ring. Then apply grease when you put things back together (don’t use copper grease , it messes with ABS, but the white ceramic paste).
Then put the 2 parts together and just compress them together. You'll hear 'click' and the rubber is in place.
Golden tip: Buy a reconditioned set from US company Cardone. For 160 USD (including 50 USD for the exchange unit!) it is a steal...
Compared to dealer prices that is....
--------
Second tip:
When pushing back the brake pads, do not push the oil back into the reservoir. Instead open the bleeder valve and let the brake oil flow back that way. If you do not, you might damage the ABS system. Why run the risk?
Third tip:
After playing around with all kinds of cleaning product to clean up the calipers, I found that a mechanical wire brush works 10 times better the anything else! I use big ones on the angle grinder, A workbench mounted wire brush and 2 smaller ones on a drill. And still I had to use a handheld one for some bits...
Then use a chemical de-ruster.
Fourth tip:
I painted mine with black hammerite and the alu parts with clear varnish. After looking at many other, much more expensive, solutions I realized that if a rally driver I read about uses it, so can I. After all my brakes will never be as hot as his. Ever.
Good luck with your forum and Audi's.
best regards from Holland!
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#8
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And I can very much advise you look at this tutoarial too: http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page...tml&category=2
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