Opinions on Diverter Valves
#1
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I did a search and didn't really find too much. I guess my main question is; how important is it to purchase new or upgraded DV's at 65k miles with a new 93 octane chip?
I notice these little guys can get pretty expensive but just how important are they? This is another thing I am looking at to try and get rid of the slightly uneven acceleration under boost. Also, all my hoses look pretty good so I don't want to buy a whole set but I noticed that the "y" pipe/hose connected at each diverter is developing some small cracks. I would like to replace just those hoses. Suggestions on where to purchase just those two?
I notice these little guys can get pretty expensive but just how important are they? This is another thing I am looking at to try and get rid of the slightly uneven acceleration under boost. Also, all my hoses look pretty good so I don't want to buy a whole set but I noticed that the "y" pipe/hose connected at each diverter is developing some small cracks. I would like to replace just those hoses. Suggestions on where to purchase just those two?
#2
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you obviously didnt search hard enough... this has been covered, on every audi/vw engine ever produce with forced induction for at least the last 15-20 years...
as for the uneven acceleration, stop grasping at straws, buy a vag-com and LEARN how to diagnose and work on your car... throwing parts at it will never solve the problem
as for the uneven acceleration, stop grasping at straws, buy a vag-com and LEARN how to diagnose and work on your car... throwing parts at it will never solve the problem
#3
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you obviously didnt search hard enough... this has been covered, on every audi/vw engine ever produce with forced induction for at least the last 15-20 years...
as for the uneven acceleration, stop grasping at straws, buy a vag-com and LEARN how to diagnose and work on your car... throwing parts at it will never solve the problem
as for the uneven acceleration, stop grasping at straws, buy a vag-com and LEARN how to diagnose and work on your car... throwing parts at it will never solve the problem
As for "throwing parts" the only ones I've "thrown" are thing that are considered maintenance. I've read, more than one place, that stock diverters are a very common point of failure, especially on a car of this age.
Finally, I still haven't been able to find just the "wye" hoses that attach to the diverter valves. I need to "throw" those parts on because I see they are cracked.
#4
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Original DV are a common point of failure on early models... it all depends on what revision you have. that being said, its VERY easy to tell of the DV is the problem, and in most cases would be a loss of power throughout the power band, along with the tell tale fluttering.
Im really interested to see what your spark (ignition/timing) and fuel are doing when you loose power.
Id also would log requested vs delivered boost to make sure that A: you are requesting the right amount of boost, and B: that you are receiving the right amount of boost.
that being said, on a lightly chipped car, the new model OEM DVs would be just fine, no need to spend 200 dollars on forged ones. now if you go to some bigger turbos then we can get into the merits of better DVs
Im really interested to see what your spark (ignition/timing) and fuel are doing when you loose power.
Id also would log requested vs delivered boost to make sure that A: you are requesting the right amount of boost, and B: that you are receiving the right amount of boost.
that being said, on a lightly chipped car, the new model OEM DVs would be just fine, no need to spend 200 dollars on forged ones. now if you go to some bigger turbos then we can get into the merits of better DVs
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#5
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Just make sure they are working - I'm convinced that faulty DVs are one of the main causes of turbo failures. Also, there's a post on one of the forums where they tore down a stock one and an "upgraded" one from a TT, and they are absolutely identical... so stick with stock unless you are upping the boost a lot.
Jim
Jim
#6
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I pulled each of the diverter valves tonight and did a "quick test" I found on another site. Basically you put your finger on the small line on top after depressing the valve from the bottom hole. If it sucks and holds on your finger it's good. If not, bad. Both valves held great - so I have to look somewhere else for my uneven power problem. Going to make a homemade pressure tester next.
#7
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Just make sure they are working - I'm convinced that faulty DVs are one of the main causes of turbo failures. Also, there's a post on one of the forums where they tore down a stock one and an "upgraded" one from a TT, and they are absolutely identical... so stick with stock unless you are upping the boost a lot.
Jim
Jim
The forum had me convinced to buy 710Ns from the TT, which I just did. You're the first to tell me they're identical.
Perhaps the materials are different, which can have differing properties.
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