Paredes

When I got the head unit, I wanted to get it installed right away, for I can be a little impatient...

I'm extremely upset though, I took it to a local Circuit City, I figured if they screwed it up, I would get my money back. Well they did, what started out as a $55 job, turned out to be a $120 job.

First, they installed it, and becuase the whole Audi/Bose system they had to wire the head unit to the Bose amplifier in the trunk. Then when it was finished they said that the amplifier was causing a 'pop' whenever the unit was turned on, and whenever you changed tracks. They said that this was the amplifier's fault, and that it wasn't fully 'compatible'. Furthermore, after listening to an MD for 15-20 mins. the sound just went dead. Like the head unit caused the amp to shut down and cease to play sound through the speakers anymore. Needless to say I took it back the next day, and explained the problem. Then the same gut tells me that he needs to put in a 'reducer' or something to limit the output from the head to the amp, which would 'solve' the problem. I noticed that he was careful to choose his words so that if it did not work, perhaps I could not implicate him. Anyway, after 4 MORE HOURS, it was ready. The pop was gone, I was happy. I took my father for a ride to check out my new stereo, and after 20 mins. in the car, the sound went dead again. At this point I was pretty pissed, because I had just spent over $100 to my new stero put in with neolithic incompetence.

The tech had also stated that IF I BOUGHT A *NEW* AMP, the problem would be eliminated. Although this is an upgrade I plan on doing, I'm not going to be pressured into buying an amp when this guy either doesnt know what the hell he is doing, or is just trying to run up a fat tab and collect commission to get himself a new pair of velcro sneakers.

This monday or tuesday, I will bring my car back, ask them to uninstall the new unit, re-install the old one, and demand that my money be refunded totally.

First, I dont think they should have put it in if they didnt know how to do it.

Second, I don't think they should've fed me all sorts of crap about the stereo to run up a bill. I think they did it becuase I didnt buy the stereo from them.

And third after the 2-day and 6 hour install, I'm still pulling pieces of cooper wire and insulator off of my carpet and dash.

Finally, there is NO EXCUSE for my stereo to be popping, or cutting out. They either install the stereo to work properly or they don't install it at all!

Anyone have an experience with this? I know I should have taken it to some place who knew what they were doing, but hey, we all get excited about some things right?

Please give me some help, or ideas. I'm ready to go in there and get this guy tossed out in the street. It should have been done right the first time, not the 2nd day and $40 later.

THANK YOU, I feel better now.

P.S. Circuit City car install in Holyoke, Mass SUCKS!

DebauchedSloth

...at Rolling Tones. I don't have his number handy, but Ira Audi recommends him for custom work. He was able to tap the CD changer input for my MD install - I just use a Sony MZE90 along with the stock system.

Greg

Bollinger

They are tapping the amplified outputs of your amps and then trying to use them as inputs to another amp (after attenuating it a little). The problem with this is that the inputs to amps are required to be a signal over ground, typically a common ground between channels. The outputs however, are usually a positive and negative voltage, both at significant different potentials from ground.

When you connect this to the input to an amp you get weird results. You hear the pop as the negatives first drop below ground. Then, as the music comes on, the difference between the negative inputs and ground causes enormous ground loop current flow.

Typically, you blow up your amps (the feeder amps), but I guess in your case they just shut down.

If this is the case, and I think it is, you got a REALLY lousy install.

They could put a floating to common ground converter before the inputs. This is basically a high frequency isolation transformer I believe. Still, you're running the sound through two amps before getting to the subwoofer, this will degrade the sound somewhat. Luckily its only a subwoofer and isn't too critical that it be perfectly clean.

Paredes

Thanks for your input-really helpful!

Paredes

The amp that this guy was running to was the one between the 6X9's in the trunk, its in a black box marked BOSE and its about 5 or 6 square inches. Its not to a sub. My car is a 1995 A6 and it has two speakers in the rear (6X9's) and it has another 5 1/4 in the door with a tweeter, in each front door.

He said that "because its Audi Bose and its factory its not fully compatible...blah blahblah." I dont know much about installing car stereos, but I know if thats what you do for a living, then you should know what to do in cases like this.

There is other stuff I want to do with the sound, but not at any cost like this.

I think I will call this guy Dave...

Thanks again.

Paredes

Is 'Rolling Tones' in Holyoke? or nearby?

Paredes

Blaupunkt Dallas is sweet, except for the crappy install

Bollinger

If they hooked it up to the amped outs then you still have the same problem, amp hooked to amp.

If it isn't that, I'm stumped.

DebauchedSloth

He's a one person shop - he comes to you

2.7tDallas

None of the stock components can be used. All speakers, the amp and head unit must be replaced. This was confirmed by the installer at Earmark in Dallas, and by the VP of product development at Jensen. It has to do with the Ohm ratings that the Bose speakers use, and how the amps are set up. It is very untraditional, and impossible to upgrade individualy like a regular system.

Repeat - a new amp will not fix your problemn, then the speakers will not work.

My suggestion is to take the unit back, and have them put EVERYTHING back to factory specs, then do some PLANNING and SEARCH this and the Audio forum for some advise on a complete upgrade