Please Help! Tranny leak between engine and trans.
07-25-2011, 03:24 PM
#21
AudiWorld Super User
Why would you do that if you know you have a bad mix of fluid? More better you unscrew the banjo bolt and let the fluid drain out..put it back together with new washers. Old ones are probably compressed/no seal anyway.
Remove and clean the p/s reservoir, and power flush the system....leave the return line to the unhooked and put it in a bucket or splice a piece of hose from it to a bucket. Plug the return line to the reservoir and hook up the line from the reservoir to the pump. Fill the reservoir and have someone start the car and keep filling the reservoir while the fluid gets pumped through the pump and rack.
Wouldn't hurt to turn the wheels lock to lock a couple times while all this is going on too but you might want to lift the front wheels off the ground to make the wheels turn easier. Figure on several liters to do the flush and do it quickly...that pump moves a lot of fluid.
Remove and clean the p/s reservoir, and power flush the system....leave the return line to the unhooked and put it in a bucket or splice a piece of hose from it to a bucket. Plug the return line to the reservoir and hook up the line from the reservoir to the pump. Fill the reservoir and have someone start the car and keep filling the reservoir while the fluid gets pumped through the pump and rack.
Wouldn't hurt to turn the wheels lock to lock a couple times while all this is going on too but you might want to lift the front wheels off the ground to make the wheels turn easier. Figure on several liters to do the flush and do it quickly...that pump moves a lot of fluid.
07-25-2011, 05:58 PM
#22
Cam caps are supposed to leak oil; no leaking means no oil getting to the cams. That's one leak you don't want to fix! LOL
07-25-2011, 07:55 PM
#23
cam plugs... the ones in the back of the engine. I still didn't check them out cuz they were repaving the road in front of my house and then it started raining. gonna check it out tomorrow. I also think it doesn't leak until the engine gets to normal operating temp. which is like 175 or 200 degrees.. (I have thicker intake manifold gaskets, so my oil stays a little cooler than most)... I do not have any smoke coming out of the exhaust, and my coolant is all water. (I know, I know! I'm bad with maintenance, but I was in the hospital for like half a year last year and I got lazy, well, its more of an issue that I lost my stamina for doing things, lol...
07-26-2011, 03:34 AM
#24
Final update. So after letting the car sit through yesterday without driving. My wife who I assumed was going to take the bus this morning wakes me up to drive her.. I start the car put it in drive and add gas, revvs up to 1500rpm and barely moves. Nice.
Bus it is. I'll take the bridge, into the water.
Bus it is. I'll take the bridge, into the water.
07-26-2011, 06:15 AM
#25
so i took the car to a transmission shop.. they determined that its leaking from in between the transmission and engine, and that it its coming from the seals/torque converter area. it would cost $1200 just for labor to remove and reinstall the transmission. Changing other parts would most likely get me to $3000. I asked them to change the transmission fluid and add a bottle of stop leak. not happy!
07-26-2011, 08:35 AM
#26
I know it's a big expense, but if you can swing it - do the $3000 rebuild. You will save yourself a lot of headache and problems and you won't have to worry about it anymore. The stop leak may or may not work and you'd be wasting a couple hundred dollars on fluid/labor that could have been put towards doing it right.
Of course, if you're really strapped for cash...which everyone is nowadays...then it may be your only option other than selling the car.
Of course, if you're really strapped for cash...which everyone is nowadays...then it may be your only option other than selling the car.
07-26-2011, 10:33 AM
#27
to be honest I only need this car for like another 2 years. i am seriously thinking of swapping the transmission for another one myself.... I am strapped for cash, wife is going to an expensive college.
07-26-2011, 02:21 PM
#28
AudiWorld Super User
You would be better off selling the car for parts and buying a 7XX 1990's volvo 4 banger. Dead easy to work on and cheap/reliable. Not as classy, but transmissions don't break!
07-27-2011, 06:57 AM
#29
If you're going to do that...do you have a way to transport a transmission? You said they'd charge $1200 to remove and reinstall the tranny...why don't you pull it out, deliver it, and then have them fix it? Ask them if they can do it for $2500 and then if they say yes, ask them if they'll drop the removal and install charge if you bring it in for them?
If you have the ability to pick up a transmission and bring it to where you live so that you can put it in your car, surely you have the ability to bring the transmission you have to them?
This would drop the bill at least in half (if they're willing to play along) and then you have a rebuilt tranny that's probably better than new and done by a pro.
If you have the ability to pick up a transmission and bring it to where you live so that you can put it in your car, surely you have the ability to bring the transmission you have to them?
This would drop the bill at least in half (if they're willing to play along) and then you have a rebuilt tranny that's probably better than new and done by a pro.
07-27-2011, 09:28 AM
#30
i downloaded elsa. so now i have the step by step on removing the transmission... i think I can do it myself, but I would need to figure out how to drop the transmission without using a car lift... any ideas? In elsa it even says that a leak from between the engine and tranny is because of a worn bushing between the torque converter and pump... if i can find a tranny for like $600 that is in known perfect working condition with under 90K miles on it, then I'll do the job myself... but still, how to I drop the transmission without a lift?