SloopJohnB@mac.com

OK, at this point I would just get a Fluke tone generator and check out the cables.

Alternatively you can take the car to a dealer and hope they can find the short--if they can't fix it you don't pay. A Fluke is probably cheaper than the dealer diagnostic fee and then you'll have the Fluke.

4Driver4

Not everyone uses linear view. It's possible to be considerate and post responses such that they work in either view.

Redneck Truck

Your car does the same thing mine has been doing for a couple of years. I'm interested to see what you discover to resolve this issue.

audifirst

did you at least checked the wires or ground wires in the connector where TCU was connected, take apart and check for any rust build up, if the TCU sat in water so the wires were also wet you the pins will look fine but the area where all the wires are..
from my experience with K1 Short to ground
where there is 12volt missing or ground connection is missing
on the obd connector check if there is 12volts present in pin 16 at all time
also very important is pin 4 and pin 5
pin 4 is chassis ground
Pin 5 is signal ground

get voltmeter and check voltage between pin 16 and pin 4
if you get no reading then you need to isolate if pin 16 or pin 4 is working
Check pin 16 and any ground connection on the car get long wire, and ground to engine bare metal and check if you have 12volt present
if no reading then you have problem with 12 volts no reaching the obd port
if you get reading then next check pin 4ground
reverse the connection run 12 volt from battery and pin 4 for ground

Pin5 is ground to all the modules if that is broken no connection

audifield1

ok great will try anything at this point! I do have a multi meter and will post findings! I did come across one oddity and who knows maybe this is why the scanner is not connecting :
you said "where there is a 12 volt missing" not sure what you meant but there is a single black wire that comes off of the coil pack harness that was initially connected to the front right post of the coil pack mounting holes. "see pic" it is definitely a 12 volt live wire as I tested it with the multi . when touched to the post it was initially connected to it sparks and blows the ignition timing fuse.
I remember when I changed out the coil packs last year it got twisted and mangled and that wire came out of a little silver and black (????? ) it was small and looked like some type of resister but what is that I gave up trying to rewire and tossed out?
maybe this is the rogue 12 volt "not connected to anything" you are referring too?
weird car ran fine with this just taped up but if this is the source of the k1 fault maybe I can move forward!
any thoughs???

audifirst

It could be that.
The part# 0310 000 064 Beru doesn't exist in Audi Database, it part of ground it called suppressor or Ignition Capacitor, without it you have ground, starting issues, it seems came only in early 98/99 AHA engine models, I didn't see it in 00/01 2.8 ATQ engine

here is how it looks in my engine
<img src="http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r581/audifirst/DSCF0043.jpg"/>

audifield1

well have done some research and it seems that acts , in part,to suppress radio interference. but it must have something to do with the ignition timing if it blows that fuse right? think we;re on to something! it would make sense that this may give the k1 "fault to ground" since that capacitor would take in a positive charge, suppress it and then ground it right? now to find one and see!

audifirst

Finger crossed hopefully this is it..

audifirst

Just got message from a source in Europe told me this is noise control Voltage suppressor , and it is part of the harness, this part is not sold separately. you have to replace the entire harness that leads to ECU..
ouch..
and this could be an issue you are having, you need to call junk yards if they can sell you this part separately.

nm3210

Is it just a capacitor (does it only have two leads)? I mean you could probably get away with putting one of the same capacitance - 2.2uF - with either the same or better voltage rating.

edit: I'll throw my two cents in here and say that a capacitor of this low capacitance probably isn't what's causing your entire system to act up. Depending on the thevenin equivalent resistance of the system it's attached to, this capacitor will block frequencies below the 20k-40k range, so it's possible that it's designed for keeping the audio system isolated from the ignition?