Quattro_Denver

How do you take the rotor out once the calipers have been removed? that's the 288 mm kind, 98 2.8 Q
There is a 17mm allen nut in the middle.
Do you have to take it out?
If so, were do you find the allen socket?
How much torque I'm looking at,I already broke my wrench (that was 1/4 to 17mm allen socket)
Thanks for the feed back
It does not seems as easy as it looks.

JimR

That's holding the CV joint to the hub. The torque spec on that puppy is something like 150 ft-lbs plus another 180 degrees of rotation, and it is a one-time-use bolt. I use a 5' piece of pipe on a breaker bar to get the 180 degrees. Hopefully, you were not able to budge it.

There should be a pair of (I think) 18mm bolts holding the caliper carrier to the hub. The heads are inboard. Remove them, remove the caliper carrier, then the rotor can be removed. Often, the rotors are "corrosion welded" to the hub. A dead-blow plastic hammer is useful. Anti-seize on the rotor-hub interface on reassembly is A Good Idea.

Quattro_Denver

I took it off, was very hard.
I can tell you that the torque was around 350 - 400.
Anyway, the rotor still does not come off.
I can hit it from the back, does not even move.
Any clues?
I will hate to bring the car to the shop ($$$), seems like a feasible job to do. Any particular brand you were happy with?
I have ATE 288mm rotors (front) with EBC green (stuff) pads on it.Suberb braking power when not warp.
It gets to high in temperature, cooking the fluid.
It's already black after 1500 miles.( I use synthetic dot 4 brake fluid, the kind you buy anywhere)
Can't go back to OEM, as it is realy crap.
I don't use my car on the track, but I do drive fast.
My pads last for about 10,000 miles, that's it.
i already warp the OEM rotors with those pads, then the ATE now.
Don't get it, that what we use in Europe on the roads.
Is there something in the air in Colorado that makes the rotors warp?. And , yes, I do bed the pads & rotors when new.
THank for the input.
That's the only recurent problem. I have 90k on the car.

DWP

you are definitely gonna have troubles like overheated fluid, pad deposits and maybe even warped rotors. So it comes down to your driving style and skills - even notice how some drivers never have brake problems, even though they are faster?

BTW, warped rotors are a lot rarer than many people think. Check out this info from Stoptech.<ul><li><a href="http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm">clicky here</a></li></ul>

Quattro_Denver

I know, less braking on a stick shift, but i have the tip.....

Quattro_Denver

Anybody has never had a warped rotor on the A6 c5?

JimR

You really should get a replacement bolt. From the Bentley, if it's an M14 bolt, 115 Nm + 180, if it's an M16, 190 Nm + 180. Car on the ground, not raised.

Sears carries just a regular 17mm Allen wrench. I cut mine with a cutting wheel and stuck a straight section into a 17mm socket. Otherwise, it's probably a special order item from a Snap-on or Matco truck.

I'm pretty sure your rotor is "corrosion welded" to the hub. Search C5 A6 using the words "rotor loose hub" and there are some ideas for you there.

QCRAZY

You don't have to hit it from the back to get it off. Whack the front all around and the vibrations will shake it loose. You may really have to smack it a few times....don't just tap it.

AudiOwner.com

Excellent article about brakes and brake warp. Thanks for the URL.

jbchinoca

STEP AWAY FROM THE 17MM! :-)