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Rotors and Pads for 2001 A6 Quattro with 4.2L

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Old 10-25-2006, 04:38 PM
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Default Rotors and Pads for 2001 A6 Quattro with 4.2L

Looking for best reasonably priced replacement rotors and pads. Zimmermann rotors seems good, any others? Also looking for good dust free pads to match rotors.

Thanks
Old 10-25-2006, 05:01 PM
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Default Link to a thread from the other day....

also, do a search, there have been several discussions on this topic.<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a6/msgs/659169.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/a6/msgs/659169.phtml</a</li></ul>
Old 10-25-2006, 06:31 PM
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Default See www.ecstuning.com, 4.2 Requires large 331mm Frts & 269mm Rear Rotors...

I went with the drilled &amp; slotted rotors by ECS, ECS stainless braided lines, ceramic pads and DOT 5 fluid. What a difference. Also added aluminum pedals. I have great brake modulation &amp; feel. I can now control ABS as never before and have amazing stopping power and bite thanks to the OEM HP 2 calipers. Very track ready and extreme street performance for about a third of the cost of Brembo's! Remember, you cannot use 2.7 rotors for the 4.2.
Old 10-25-2006, 06:49 PM
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Default So what helped stopping more the pedals or the drilled rotors.

There are certain dynamics to braking that are constant. Nothing of which has anything to do with aluminum pedals and drilled rotors. Drilled rotors are bling they serve no purpose in helping you stop quicker, in fact they can have the opposite effect as they are decreasing the surface of the brake rotor.

I also don't believe brake fluid will lower your braking distance, and I can guarantee you this brake set up you have wouldn't last at the track. Track braking requires serious high temp brake pads cooling and proper technique. The brake fluid will not boil as easily with good DOT 5 but my guess is you would cook those brakes on the track in two laps. They just weren't designed for that.

If your replacing your stock set up and want to improve it, the pads in the aftermarket are not generally better than OEM they just dust less. Stock compounds are actually very good but messy.

I say stay stock and learn a better braking technique. Riding brakes is the way you heat them up and this is how you deposit pads compounds to the rotor and end up with pad deposits on your rotor that cause vibrations.

Also stainless lines are also a joke. The stock lines on these cars are fantastic. The only difference stainless lines give you is a slightly lower chance that you will have a catastrophic brake failure if you have something come up and break your lines (like an accident). The stock lines are lined with a coating that is equal to stainless lines. I suggest the only difference you will feel will be due to the fact that you bled your lines and they are now firm again. Sorry to disagree with you but trust me I have done a lot of track events and I know what you really need to stop and fancy cross drilled rotor are no help. Mass, cooling, high temp pads, good fluid and proper technique are the cornerstones to stopping.
Old 10-26-2006, 11:33 AM
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Default My Audi Is Track Ready...I Did Not Say LeMans! I could Write An Even Longer Response...

You are an unbeliever! AW is full of them...who cares. All I wrote as a response was, for the $'s, the upgrade investment I made, is felt by me and other track drivers from the standard rotors, pads, lines...Fluid doesn't lower the SD, but it keeps your brakes lines from boiling. Your thinking and agreement with flat rotors is old style to say the least. Under extreme braking conditions, gases do occur and push the pads from the rotors creating a resistance. That is why I went to drilled/slotted....had flats my whole life...they are boring. Also I do believe in cutting the pads for absolute true contact hence slotted. The drilled rotors allow gases to escape, which I believe occurs. Your thought of drilled holes yields less stopping area counters my theory, so what. That's what makes horse racing, isn't it? I agree the pads would be changed out for track only, but the ceramics are good for at least 10 laps before a problem anyway. That is track ready not race ready! Finding the apex is the real challenge and the best line for initial braking, corner entry, thru braking, exit &amp; throttle. I am no rookie either... Want to talk F1 science &amp; technology? Now that is the pinnacle of racing and Audi is nowhere to be found...speaking of the other Germans( BMW/Mercedes) of course. As far as the pedals....my entire braking system is quicker to respond to anything I do. Even the pedals have great modulation now. I wrote I can really control the ABS more than the stock pedals. I can feel the slightest ABS now. Feels great! Drive Safely...no matter what your braking style...Lol!
Old 10-27-2006, 04:39 AM
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Default I am sorry cross drilled rotors don't help stopping period, I wouldn't use ceramic

brake pads on a track in any scenario. Check out the temp range of those pads. They would fade very quickly if you were driving on the track. There are street pad and there are track pads there are no in between. I suggest trying a set of Pagid Orange, Porterfields or Hawk Blues go to the track and drive those and then tell me how your car stops and doesn't fade. Our stock brakes are very good on these cars for the street. Show me an F1 car with cross drilled rotors. You will see slotted rotors because they don't decrease the amount of braking surface as dramatically as cross drilling. Cross drilled rotors decrease your stopping distance because they decrease the clamping surface.
Old 10-27-2006, 12:30 PM
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Default I Still Diasgree...See Mclaren/Mercedes F1 Rotors...Drilled & Slotted.....Some Teams...

are switching to slotted rotors due to cracking. The F1 rotors run @ 650- 1200 Celsius...I'll never have to worry!
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