Metronet

Yup, that's always an option especially if it gets worse. I've consulted with a (gas turbine technician/mechanic) friend of mine who rebuilds Mercedes tranny in his spare time. He thinks the way I described the symptom to him it's not a real issue...

I haven't finished my research and I am not giving up just yet

Thanks for all you guy's help & advice!

Metronet

Another week has passed and to my surprise the issue has improved after the filter & 2/3 fluid change.

After highway driving it still doesn't shift from R to D as smooth as I wanted it to be but the clunk has gone away. I plan to proceed with another fluid drain & fill at the next oil change

Here comes my question, unlike my B6 A4 6MT, in the cluster it's got an oil temperature gauge and it sometimes goes a little beyond 100 degree Celsius (it goes from 60 - - 120 so I'm assuming each click is +20 degree). It does go back down to below 100 and usually around 90.

Is this normal?

The same thing with the Coolant temperature, it goes beyond the 12 o'clock mark (or 90 degree celsius) whenever the car is parked after it's been driven on the highway. I am slightly in doubt here because I've never seen my B6 6MT's coolant went beyond 90 degree even in hot summer time. Since the transmission issue is heat related this might have something to do with the hard shift, maybe?

Oh and the thermostat, water pump were replaced around 50k KM ago together with the timing belt...

GTA_Driver

It should never go beyond 90 especially not in the winter.

Maybe your thermostat is getting stuck closed periodically or else the cooling system has a bottleneck somewhere.

Metronet

Thanks for confirming that. I better find the bottleneck soon then. I have flushed the coolant with G13 and it helped a bit I think but than the old coolant was not in very bad condition either.

I have done the TB job on a 3.0 before and it wasn't fun. Is there an easier way to replace the thermostat without putting into the service position etc...?

Will monitor temperature using vagcom and infared thermometer in the meantime! Cheers,

4Driver4

Or the gauge is wrong due to a failing coolant temp sensor.

Metronet

I'll see if I could replace the G62 first since it's fairly easy to do and I don't think it has ever been replaced in the past 10 years. The oil temp gauge reading seems to be consistent with the coolant temp. Could the G62/G2 sensor still be bad?

Another question, are the coolant temperature sensor and sender the same unit on our cars? I am not so sure but it sounds to me the G62 sends signal to the ECU and than at the same time it gets displayed in the cluster? I know there is another sensor inside the expansion tank but that's for level warning only, correct?

Edit: found the answer G62 & G2 are built in one unit
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho....php?t=2350102

Thanks again.

GTA_Driver

But the failing coolant temp sensor wouldn't affect the oil temp gauge.

Metronet

I did some measurements today. Any one know what's the 3rd reading in Group 134?

Says Intake Air Temperature but 48 Celsius...?
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/130-137.html

Engine cold and not running:

<a href="http://www.freeimagehosting.net/v7kvi"><img src="http://www.freeimagehosting.net/newuploads/v7kvi.png"></a>

Engine reached normal operating temperature:

<a href="http://www.freeimagehosting.net/ly15o"><img src="http://www.freeimagehosting.net/newuploads/ly15o.png"></a>

Juan Carlos Abdel

Hi there I know it has been a while since this issue was brought up did you ever find a solution to the rough engagement to reverse or drive after warm? I’m having the same issue