badinstincts

Ok, so I did a transmission swap like 4-5 months ago, at which point I cleaned my engine with simple green and water since I had it out.

Last week I have been having trouble starting the car. I would turn the key and it would click on the first try, but then on the second try it would start fine.

Yesterday it wouldn't crank at all, just one click each time I turn the key, and I did notice I was killing the voltage on my car battery after doing it for a couple minutes. I did have some RC airplane lipo batteries that are 144Amps burst at 14.8v nominal, so I connected 2 of them to my battery and after like 3-4 more clicks it would finally start.

Would my assumption that the starter is going bad be valid? I just changed my car battery like a year ago to the bigger (mercedes s550 size)...

Any other way I can test it without having to do service position?

4Driver4

I'd verify that it isn't a battery or alternator issue first. Starter problems are rare.

If you do need a starter, I have one I'd be happy to sell.

badinstincts

I just checked my engine oil, the dipstick was bone dry. I have a leak from my driver side valve cover gasket, (i didn't change it because I didn't have a pick set to get the half moon out at the time). Had to add 2 quarts today... I kinda think I had a starting problem before when my oil was too low, i'm not sure though.

Is it possible the engine wouldn't crank right away if oil was to low?

Is that starter you have oem or bosch? Part number? how much $ ?

rocketman4321

I'll defer to 4Driver, but as he suggested let's break this issue up. Doubt it was the oil, but top that up. Clean the battery terminals and charge the battery with a charger and see if the problem goes away, at least momentarily. If not, it's likely a bad battery--go to Advanced, Wal-mart, etc. for a free test. See other posts for the voltages--from memory, >12.6 with the car off and ~14.2V running (with a real meter, not the dashboard dial). Otherwise, it may be the starter.

If the problem returns after sitting overnight, either the battery isn't holding a charge, the alternator's not giving it one, or a bad connection between them is preventing charging. The battery test will answer the first item. Watch the dash voltmeter while driving--if it's down around 12V rather than 14, especially when idling, that's an indication it's the alternator. It will sometimes be fine at speed (really higher RPMs) but be sick--I limped home several hundred highway miles this way.

It's hard to even SEE the starter without going to the service position, let alone twack it while trying to crank in the classic manner.

badinstincts

I used to have a bad battery (when my fuel pump went bad) I know how it is, it cranks but slow, until it just clicks like it does now. Now it only clicks the first try and then cranks like a normally charged battery... Alternator, I always see it around 14v when the engine is on. Off its above 12v, no lights are ever dim...
Whatever, I'm pretty sure its the starter. 4driver are you going to give me the info on that starter or what? I'm buying a new one today... hurry

SloopJohnB@mac.com

If you have around 140K miles on the alternator the brushes are most likely worn down to or below the 5mm service limit and will affect charging voltage.
New brushes are integral to a new VR.

badinstincts

awesome deal I just got. a remanufactered bosch starter and alternator $220 shipped. yay, now who wants to change it for me, lol

I actually have 170k miles on my car already. Who wants to do my timing belt? lol

badinstincts

NOT AN EASY JOB. Took me 2 whole days of pain and mysery.
Read this thread on what I had to go through to get it out:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho....php?t=2819736

Anyways, my car starts perfectly every single time now. It definitely was a bad starter solenoid. (The relay would not flip and send power to the starter unless you try 50 times, and sometimes I HAD to use my 14.8V NOMINAL, thats 16.8V fully charged RC airplane lipo batteries that give me an extra 480 AMPS (used 2 of them at 240amps each) of cranking power.