Starting issue 1998 2.8 Quattro - video link inside
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Hi guys, I offloaded an awesome b4 quattro last a year and just got back into an Audi with this 1998 2.8 Quattro that has developed a starting issue after owning for a couple of months. It just cranks a little and then stops. When the problem first started it would usually start second attempt. Now it takes up to 10 attempts before it fires up. I have tried the following fixes:
1. bought a cheap new ignition switch . It didn't fit the barrel properly but it hooked up to the harness just fine and I was able to use a screwdriver to turn the switch. The car did the same thing - a couple of cranks but would start. I have now reinstalled the old ignition switch.
2. bought a used starter (tested with warranty - i know i know... but dollars are tight). I went through the pain of installing the new starter and still the problem remains. There has been no change in starting behaviour.
I charged the battery overnight and filmed the problem about 10 minutes ago have posted it here
Any advice would be awesome. Could this be caused by crank position or camshaft position sensors?
Cheers
1. bought a cheap new ignition switch . It didn't fit the barrel properly but it hooked up to the harness just fine and I was able to use a screwdriver to turn the switch. The car did the same thing - a couple of cranks but would start. I have now reinstalled the old ignition switch.
2. bought a used starter (tested with warranty - i know i know... but dollars are tight). I went through the pain of installing the new starter and still the problem remains. There has been no change in starting behaviour.
I charged the battery overnight and filmed the problem about 10 minutes ago have posted it here
Any advice would be awesome. Could this be caused by crank position or camshaft position sensors?
Cheers
#2
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Hi guys, I offloaded an awesome b4 quattro last a year and just got back into an Audi with this 1998 2.8 Quattro that has developed a starting issue after owning for a couple of months. It just cranks a little and then stops. When the problem first started it would usually start second attempt. Now it takes up to 10 attempts before it fires up. I have tried the following fixes:
1. bought a cheap new ignition switch . It didn't fit the barrel properly but it hooked up to the harness just fine and I was able to use a screwdriver to turn the switch. The car did the same thing - a couple of cranks but would start. I have now reinstalled the old ignition switch.
2. bought a used starter (tested with warranty - i know i know... but dollars are tight). I went through the pain of installing the new starter and still the problem remains. There has been no change in starting behaviour.
I charged the battery overnight and filmed the problem about 10 minutes ago have posted it here Starting a 1998 Audi A6 2.8 - YouTube
Any advice would be awesome. Could this be caused by crank position or camshaft position sensors?
Cheers
1. bought a cheap new ignition switch . It didn't fit the barrel properly but it hooked up to the harness just fine and I was able to use a screwdriver to turn the switch. The car did the same thing - a couple of cranks but would start. I have now reinstalled the old ignition switch.
2. bought a used starter (tested with warranty - i know i know... but dollars are tight). I went through the pain of installing the new starter and still the problem remains. There has been no change in starting behaviour.
I charged the battery overnight and filmed the problem about 10 minutes ago have posted it here Starting a 1998 Audi A6 2.8 - YouTube
Any advice would be awesome. Could this be caused by crank position or camshaft position sensors?
Cheers
I'm seeing a very big voltage drop on the gauge and flicker on the dash display, it is possible that the battery is plain out weak or you have a problem with the Load Reduction Relay.
Did you have the battery load tested?
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So when you "offload" something you don't let it go, you acquire it. Learn something new every day.
I'm seeing a very big voltage drop on the gauge and flicker on the dash display, it is possible that the battery is plain out weak or you have a problem with the Load Reduction Relay.
Did you have the battery load tested?
I'm seeing a very big voltage drop on the gauge and flicker on the dash display, it is possible that the battery is plain out weak or you have a problem with the Load Reduction Relay.
Did you have the battery load tested?
I'm surprised the car turned over at all. 9V on the gauge when the key turned on, not much of a drop but just wouldn't turn over.
Last bit of the video showed 12V on the gauge once the engine was running.
Charging the battery overnight and only 9V on the gauge? Yes, load test the battery, but I'd try jumping the car with another battery/car and see if it cranks over right away. If it does, it could be a bad battery or a poor battery connection, bad ground cable.
Last edited by SloopJohnB@mac.com; 10-24-2015 at 05:45 PM.
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Thanks guys, grabbed another battery and problem solved. Have receipt for existing battery is less than 12 months old. The built in battery checker (on the battery) shows all OK too. I've learn't a valuable lesson and I feel a bit embarrassed to be honest. I'll never trust a battery again...or my judgement LOL!
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BTW, I had no trouble understanding that he let go a B4 a year ago and has now a troublesome C5.
I'm surprised the car turned over at all. 9V on the gauge when the key turned on, not much of a drop but just wouldn't turn over.
Last bit of the video showed 12V on the gauge once the engine was running.
Charging the battery overnight and only 9V on the gauge? Yes, load test the battery, but I'd try jumping the car with another battery/car and see if it cranks over right away. If it does, it could be a bad battery or a poor battery connection, bad ground cable.
I'm surprised the car turned over at all. 9V on the gauge when the key turned on, not much of a drop but just wouldn't turn over.
Last bit of the video showed 12V on the gauge once the engine was running.
Charging the battery overnight and only 9V on the gauge? Yes, load test the battery, but I'd try jumping the car with another battery/car and see if it cranks over right away. If it does, it could be a bad battery or a poor battery connection, bad ground cable.
Yep, very obvious with the battery condition.
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Thanks guys, grabbed another battery and problem solved. Have receipt for existing battery is less than 12 months old. The built in battery checker (on the battery) shows all OK too. I've learn't a valuable lesson and I feel a bit embarrassed to be honest. I'll never trust a battery again...or my judgement LOL!
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Well, the problem has returned. Exactly the same as in the video. The LCD still flickers when I turn the key.
So Please guys..keep the suggestions coming.
I have done a scan (Foxwell VAG scanner) and the multifunction switch is throwing a code. This has been the case since I bought the car and the tiptronic (yes it's auto) does not work. I thought the code might suggest a problem with park position switch that inhibits starting car when park is not selected. What do you guys think? I am thinking cam or crank sensor could be flaky.
So Please guys..keep the suggestions coming.
I have done a scan (Foxwell VAG scanner) and the multifunction switch is throwing a code. This has been the case since I bought the car and the tiptronic (yes it's auto) does not work. I thought the code might suggest a problem with park position switch that inhibits starting car when park is not selected. What do you guys think? I am thinking cam or crank sensor could be flaky.
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#8
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Well, the problem has returned. Exactly the same as in the video. The LCD still flickers when I turn the key.
So Please guys..keep the suggestions coming.
I have done a scan (Foxwell VAG scanner) and the multifunction switch is throwing a code. This has been the case since I bought the car and the tiptronic (yes it's auto) does not work. I thought the code might suggest a problem with park position switch that inhibits starting car when park is not selected. What do you guys think? I am thinking cam or crank sensor could be flaky.
So Please guys..keep the suggestions coming.
I have done a scan (Foxwell VAG scanner) and the multifunction switch is throwing a code. This has been the case since I bought the car and the tiptronic (yes it's auto) does not work. I thought the code might suggest a problem with park position switch that inhibits starting car when park is not selected. What do you guys think? I am thinking cam or crank sensor could be flaky.
Did you try starting in neutral??
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Better than what I did. I had a crank no start condition and replaced the fuel pump. That should have fixed it, but I ended up spending two more weeks trying to fix it simply because I accidentally reversed the fuel "send" line and the fuel "return" line.
I didn't catch this mistake until I pulled the return line on the pressure regulator, clamped it shut, and cranked it to test the pressure. My brother (standing next the the engine) got covered in gasoline as the flew out of the return line.
I didn't catch this mistake until I pulled the return line on the pressure regulator, clamped it shut, and cranked it to test the pressure. My brother (standing next the the engine) got covered in gasoline as the flew out of the return line.
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Fixed!!! I found the lead to the starter motor was loose where it connects to the positive battery terminal. I had previously checked the battery connections but hadn't realised the starter wire was bolted separately to the clamp. Novice mistake but then again that's what I am. BTW the version of events I told my wife made me appear a master Mechanic! Thanks for all the replies guys - just the best!