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Strange leak on 4.2 auto trans...

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Old 11-03-2013, 07:05 AM
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Default Strange leak on 4.2 auto trans...

Hello,

Looking to change trans fluid, found that there is a leak from ABOVE the trans fluid pan. I can't seem to find where it is coming from. Ran fingers as far and found oil/grime above the "heat shield?"... Don't have lift so, it's a PIA. The fluid seems like gear oil but, I've never changed trans fluid and I don't think it is in its original color so, don't know if it is trans fluid.

I found someone having the similar if not, the same issue here: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho....php?t=2844507

The OP indicates it is trans fluid but, no further updates to that thread to know what the findings were.

It is definitely not coolant because I just went through oil cooler pipe etc. and took care of any and all leaks and coolant level is holding perfectly. The drip a few or more drops overnight definitely feel like oil of some sort (not engine oil).

Could this be transfer case seal? If so, has anyone done it and what's involved?

Last edited by tester123; 11-03-2013 at 07:07 AM.
Old 11-05-2013, 03:10 AM
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A while back, I THOUGHT I had a tranny leak too... It was actually motor oil leaking from the oil filter gasket seal---an extra 1/4 turn on the filter did the trick. Just a thought....

Good luck.
Old 11-05-2013, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 4.2Crew
A while back, I THOUGHT I had a tranny leak too... It was actually motor oil leaking from the oil filter gasket seal---an extra 1/4 turn on the filter did the trick. Just a thought....

Good luck.
I HATE when that happens……means I had a senior moment and didn't turn it ¾ turn after finger tight….
Old 11-05-2013, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 4.2Crew
A while back, I THOUGHT I had a tranny leak too... It was actually motor oil leaking from the oil filter gasket seal---an extra 1/4 turn on the filter did the trick. Just a thought....

Good luck.
Interesting! I've always tightened it really well with just my hands and never had a leak (don't forget to put some oil on filter gasket before installing). This time is no different. Damn, wish I saw this post before pulling the jacks out. While I was working on the alternator, I did look by the filter area and there are no oil leaks. Will know more and update this thread.
Old 11-06-2013, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by tester123
Interesting! I've always tightened it really well with just my hands and never had a leak (don't forget to put some oil on filter gasket before installing). This time is no different. Damn, wish I saw this post before pulling the jacks out. While I was working on the alternator, I did look by the filter area and there are no oil leaks. Will know more and update this thread.
Just lucky. I dab a spot of white paint on the filter after tightening it to finger tight and then twist it ¾ turn more. If I can do it with my hand encased in a latex or nitrile glove, ok. As you get older, it gets more difficult to get that ¾ turn….
Old 11-06-2013, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by SloopJohnB@mac.com
Just lucky. I dab a spot of white paint on the filter after tightening it to finger tight and then twist it ¾ turn more. If I can do it with my hand encased in a latex or nitrile glove, ok. As you get older, it gets more difficult to get that ¾ turn….
what's the purpose of white paint? Yes, age could play a role and not to mention, the gloves could be dirty and that makes it difficult. I've been known to use large adj. pliers few times to remove the old ones and to tighten new filter. Tried all gadgets for fuel filters and none of them work as advertised or there is no room even to use them. Good old pliers do the trick every time!

On the topic of tail shaft leak, I am debating if I should get the updated flange and seal+plate or just get the older type seal and revisit it after another 70k miles...
Old 11-06-2013, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by tester123
what's the purpose of white paint? Yes, age could play a role and not to mention, the gloves could be dirty and that makes it difficult. I've been known to use large adj. pliers few times to remove the old ones and to tighten new filter. Tried all gadgets for fuel filters and none of them work as advertised or there is no room even to use them. Good old pliers do the trick every time!

On the topic of tail shaft leak, I am debating if I should get the updated flange and seal+plate or just get the older type seal and revisit it after another 70k miles...
Get the older type seal if it's available. Otherwise it's about $400 in parts alone IIRC.
If it's possible to shift the older seal a couple mm to get a new seal on the rotating part that's even better. Probably have to install it a couple mm out, don't drive it all the way in to the stop.
Old 11-06-2013, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by tester123
what's the purpose of white paint? Yes, age could play a role and not to mention, the gloves could be dirty and that makes it difficult. I've been known to use large adj. pliers few times to remove the old ones and to tighten new filter. Tried all gadgets for fuel filters and none of them work as advertised or there is no room even to use them. Good old pliers do the trick every time!

On the topic of tail shaft leak, I am debating if I should get the updated flange and seal+plate or just get the older type seal and revisit it after another 70k miles...
White paint used as visual index mark for ¾ turn. Sometimes I just use the paint on the MANN filter.
Old 11-06-2013, 02:06 PM
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yup i just did this a couple years ago and mine needs doing again .. is it dripping on to the cats ? if so its the tail flange seal ..

pain in the ***.. there is a good thread on it actually

http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articl...placement.html
Old 11-06-2013, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by SloopJohnB@mac.com
Get the older type seal if it's available. Otherwise it's about $400 in parts alone IIRC.
If it's possible to shift the older seal a couple mm to get a new seal on the rotating part that's even better. Probably have to install it a couple mm out, don't drive it all the way in to the stop.
Are suggesting to use TWO seals together instead of one? If I understand correctly, there is a torque specification to tighten the flange's inner bolt. I'd hate to find my drive shaft dangling (no pun intended) on the road @ 70mph!

Last edited by tester123; 11-06-2013 at 07:31 PM.


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