vtraudt

I have 2 cars with converter clutch issue:

17125 - Torque Converter Clutch: Stuck OFF / No Power being transferred

Seems fair to say it is common (with all those (5HP19??) ZF transmissions)?

Since transmissions in the did get by without the lock up clutch: is the (estimated 3%?) slip going to hurt? Sure, it will generate more heat (those 3% have to go somewhere).

If that is the case: is it perceivable to install a cheap cooler (I added trans coolers to a few cars to cope with extra heat/load from towing) as a cheap fix?

Anyone done something like it?

2.7Lturbo

dude, fix it or sell the car, depending on what the car is worth your option of which is cheaper will vary

vtraudt

Dude, do you give this advise to every tiptronic owner with this code?

And: which of my questions is your answer pertaining to?

2.7Lturbo

yes, when they try to float the idea of a bigger transmission cooler to compensate for a slipping TQ. seriously, fix it right?

did you come here for advice or just to have people tell you what you want to hear?

vtraudt

Well, lets get facts:
a) why is the lock up not locking. IIRC: leaking seal in TC, not enough pressure? On other transmission, it was possible to tune the trans for higher line pressure. Possible here?

b) What are the consequences of open lock up. I suggested: slip (like every torque converter without lock up), ca. 3% speed difference. Correct me with facts (I am just guessing).

c) If above is close: what is consequence of driving around with open lock up? Certainly, more heat (ergo: need to dissipate more heat, ergo trans cooler; see U-Haul). On the last two 5HP19 (?) I changed (in 2.8), the trans cooler was integrated (running) through the radiator. If this is the case on the 2.7T as well, it may as easy as having the 2 electric fans kick in at lower temp, or run at higher speed (they are speed controlled, at least in the Allroad).

Other consequences (aside from more heat)? Specifics, please.

2.7Lturbo

im not saying you cant do it man, but im saying if your too cheap to fix something the right way ONCE, then you probably shouldn't own an audi, let alone THREE

that being said, it is integrated into the radiator on all automatic transmissions so yes you can just run an electric fan

as far as line pressure, it was my impression that the seal was an issue as well as the valve body itself. you can tune the line pressure on the transmission all you want : www.nefmoto.com <<<<<< knock yourself out someone there must have debugged the transmission control by now superstar

Just Me

No experience. I'd first find out why its not getting the power/signal. That might be straight-forward.

Let's see, at cruise you maybe use 20 hp to keep going (better estimates, chime in). 1 HP = 800W. That's 16,000 watts. Big cooler.

G

vtraudt

No question: rebuilding the torque converter would be the right thing (and not that expansive) - IF the engine/trans has to come out anyway (labor!).

IF engine/trans is out: next question is: ALSO have the trans itself rebuilt? As you pointed out: the code can ALSO be caused by worn valve seat. Now we are approaching $2,000 (think Level10 rebuilt) IN MATERIAL alone. Still looking for a way to ISOLATE what IS causing the problem to take the guesswork (TC or trans) out. Unfortunately, I brought my old and completely disassembled last ZF to the salvage yard for scrap money, including one TC (had thought about cutting it open for 'learning', but it also went to scrap in this 'clean up' swoop).

Audis: with my latest addition to my Audi line up (2002 manual Allroad), I inherited the complete maintenance log from the previous owner.

I have not yet totaled it up. But: You are right. I could NEVER afford one (let alone - currently - 3 Audis if I did NOT find cheaper ways and solution for the problems (plus DIY labor).

I feel sorry for the poor (now) sob, since he had (or chose) to rely on Audi for the work, and shelled out (estimate) $20k (no major repairs) from 04/2005 (63k mls) to 08/2010 (150k mls), a whopping $200 per 1k mls.

My AR currently sits at stage 2 (about 320cHP, 440Nm), piggies, cat delete, on Hotchkis, Arnott (2), Bilstein (2), Stern; with Forge, lowered and widened (under $2k so far) on its way to stage 3+. Goal is 500HP (RS6) for under $10k total (need turbos, clutch, intercooler, injectors, cat back, tune, rims/tires, short sifter, 2 Arnott, 2 Bilstein).

The 1.8T manual A4 is currently pushing the MAF limit (185 g/sec) on custom K03/K04+ hybrid, FMIC, Giac PC16/injectors, SB stage 3 clutch. Next is larger MAF, K04/RS6 hybrid.

The 2.8 A4 auto is (and remains) stock, except had a broken rear spring and changed to sport springs (used set for $80).

Looking for another 1.8T A4 manual (to replace 'tired' Cougar (3.0 port matched, SVT, custom tuned (flash) engine, auto trans). This may get either a K04/RS6 hybrid (originally planned T3/T4, but VERY disappointed with power band (zero power midrange) after driving one recently).

Also currently eyeballing a RS6 (now you REALLY talk expensive parts; ONE rotor is $500!!!! and no availability for cheap alternatives on some parts (unique ZF "A" transmission, Cosworth block, brakes, suspension to name a few). Obviously: scray thought.

2.7Lturbo

as just me pointed out, you have to have a BIG *** cooler, i know its expensive, but the alternative of trying to put a band-aid on it will only lead to more expensive failure later

meternerd

Ditto on the "fix it right" or sell it. Mine quit on a cross country trip. Mileage went from 21 to 16 immediately. Had the whole tranny rebuilt with a two year warranty for under 3K. All else is perfetct, so you decide. Is the rest of the car worth it? Mine was, considering the cost of a new one!