Upper control arm pinch bolt...won't budge
#1
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I had to replace the upper control arms on my 2.7 A6. Driver side was a breeze, took less than 30 minutes.
Passenger side...not so much. The pinch bolt that holds the two upper ball joints for the upper control arms will not move.
The other side I tapped out with a rubber mallet.
The passenger side I've used a torch, PB Blaster, air hammer, NOTHING will make it even move.
I put a 16 on the head side and it started to round it off when I used a breaker bar.
Only thing I did not do so far is put my impact on it.
Its soaking again in PB blaster. I hit it with the air hammer in between the pinches, everything I can without damaging the knuckle.
I've given up trying to save the bolt itself but I cannot get it to go anywhere.
Seems odd one side was so simple but the other is stuck.
Any tips, hints?
Passenger side...not so much. The pinch bolt that holds the two upper ball joints for the upper control arms will not move.
The other side I tapped out with a rubber mallet.
The passenger side I've used a torch, PB Blaster, air hammer, NOTHING will make it even move.
I put a 16 on the head side and it started to round it off when I used a breaker bar.
Only thing I did not do so far is put my impact on it.
Its soaking again in PB blaster. I hit it with the air hammer in between the pinches, everything I can without damaging the knuckle.
I've given up trying to save the bolt itself but I cannot get it to go anywhere.
Seems odd one side was so simple but the other is stuck.
Any tips, hints?
#4
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You'll want to be careful about putting too much impact on the upright while installed on the vehicle - there are many ways to damage it. I'd suggest removing it entirely before attacking the pinch bolt further. The hub bolt is torqued to over 100lbs/ft, so you'll need a long breaker bar to get the upright off. You can attack the pinch bolt while the upright is on the bench or in a vice. I also recommend against heating, despite others supporting that approach. The upright is cast steel, and can crack. Also, I recommend against drilling while on the car - not a ton of room for drilling but lots for error. It's best to have the VAG ball joint removal tool for the lower arms. Also, to prevent further occurrences of your problem, use anti-seize liberally...
#6
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I've tried a ton of different ways to get that bolt out. The problem is that each one seems to come out a different way.
I've cut the bolt head off a tightened the nut until they moved, then losened the nut again and hammered the bolt back in, then tightened the nut again, etc.
I've driven them out with a (good) air hammer.
I've drilled them out.
I've used a sawzall to cut the bolt into three pieces through the two relief cuts at the ball joints, then hammered the bits out.
The only thing I have not done is used a torch. Keep beating on it.
I've cut the bolt head off a tightened the nut until they moved, then losened the nut again and hammered the bolt back in, then tightened the nut again, etc.
I've driven them out with a (good) air hammer.
I've drilled them out.
I've used a sawzall to cut the bolt into three pieces through the two relief cuts at the ball joints, then hammered the bits out.
The only thing I have not done is used a torch. Keep beating on it.
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#10
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you will need a new one, and this is not a bad thing.
I've also used my impact on them, and only once did I break it off, and that was teh epic battle with Asicks' car.. 4 hours later, I ended up with what you see in jimmy's post.
I've also used my impact on them, and only once did I break it off, and that was teh epic battle with Asicks' car.. 4 hours later, I ended up with what you see in jimmy's post.