upper control arms
#1
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Need to replace upper control arms on the driver's side front. Can I just take the bolts out to replace or do I have to take the stut out?? Any writes on this?? Also the lower rear control arm bushings seem to have a lot of movement. So I'll replace thoses too. Will the lower rear ones come right out also?? write ups on those?? If not maybe I'll create some. Thanks.
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You *could* take out the upper CAs after removing the pinch bolt and using a ratcheting wrench to remove them from the strut bracket. However you'll probably save more time by taking the strut assembly out.
Lower CAs come out easily once you get the ball joint out from the spindle.
Bentley Manual has two videos on YouTube, search Audi A6 control arm replacement. One video is for upper, one is for lower.
Lower CAs come out easily once you get the ball joint out from the spindle.
Bentley Manual has two videos on YouTube, search Audi A6 control arm replacement. One video is for upper, one is for lower.
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There were some GREAT instructional videos from (I think) Bentley, on line. it detailed complete removal/install of control arms. I can't find a link right now, unfortunately.
Search and I'm sure you will find them !
Ahhh - here they are:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-0cvMxherU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrYAAtlsjnY
Search and I'm sure you will find them !
Ahhh - here they are:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-0cvMxherU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrYAAtlsjnY
Last edited by RMsALFA; 11-28-2011 at 11:35 AM.
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Tip: Don't keep a loaded gun around when working on the pinch bolt.
Have fun!!! :-D
PS, when replacing said pinchbolt after sawing, drilling, hammering, and otherwise deforming it, just run over to home depot, it's a grade 8.8 bolt (M 10x 100 I believe?)
All of the metric bolts carried by my home depot and lowes have the 8.8 stamp on the cap.
Have fun!!! :-D
PS, when replacing said pinchbolt after sawing, drilling, hammering, and otherwise deforming it, just run over to home depot, it's a grade 8.8 bolt (M 10x 100 I believe?)
All of the metric bolts carried by my home depot and lowes have the 8.8 stamp on the cap.
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I was surprised the dude didn't slap his impact wrench on the bolt end of the pinch bolt. Usually it unscrews them toot-sweet! Worst case it breaks off the bolt end and then you can bang it through with an air hammer. You're usually not any worse off and it often takes them out.
Reinstall the pinch bolt with antiseize on the bolt, not necessarily the threads.
Reinstall the pinch bolt with antiseize on the bolt, not necessarily the threads.
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total, so far no problems. Maybe its my California car, but it is a 12 year old vehicle at this point.
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just did my whole suspension on a 2000 4.2 (all aluminum parts on all years of 4.2's). One of the upper CA bolts on the inside is installed such that it cannot be removed unless the upper strut/spring mounting plate is removed (which typically you wouldn't want to). Classic example of poor engineering design for practical maintenance later--easier for Audi to assemble as a unit with motor and suspension on the subframe but really, really stupid as far as cost of maintenance. Thus, the demo/reciprocating saw came out w/ a metal cutting blade. Just barely cleared the blade stroke, but it did work. Easy to reinstall by just turning the (new) bolt the other way. Rear lower control arm has the same issue BTW, and w/ a much thicker bolt to cut.
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Gotta disagree with the design complaint. Living in MD/DC/NOVA area our 2K4.2 has seen its share of salt although it's been garaged for 8 of the last 12 years (Jan 2012 is 12 years). The pinch bolts are not corroded. Perhaps it's because OEM bolts have been used every time the UCAs were pulled or replaced. When I replace the pinch bolts I also use antiseize...
Removing the strut with the top bracket has been a piece of cake with easy removal of pinch bolt...perhaps a different design that separated the strut mount from the UCA mount would have been easier maintenance-wise but I've found that popping the pinch bolt and UCAs gives sufficient room to remove the strut assembly than taking it out through the bottom with a lower rear control arm dropped.
Removing the strut with the top bracket has been a piece of cake with easy removal of pinch bolt...perhaps a different design that separated the strut mount from the UCA mount would have been easier maintenance-wise but I've found that popping the pinch bolt and UCAs gives sufficient room to remove the strut assembly than taking it out through the bottom with a lower rear control arm dropped.
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