W00T! fixed my clunking steering wheel problem! loose steering rack bolt...
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well i started with the basics before i jumped into the inner TRE... pulled the battery and the tray out and found one of the rack bolts FINGER LOOSE!! i could turn it by hand and it had back itself out of its hole about 3 turns... the other one was still fine. tightened the loose one and no more clunking when turning the wheel back and fourth! easiest fix ive ever made on this car =)
PSA: if you hear clunking turning the wheel at low speeds (1st gear parking lot, backing out of a parking spot, or turning the wheel while stationary) CHECK YOUR RACK BOLTS before you start replacing things like CA's, TRE's, or even the rack its self.
PSA: if you hear clunking turning the wheel at low speeds (1st gear parking lot, backing out of a parking spot, or turning the wheel while stationary) CHECK YOUR RACK BOLTS before you start replacing things like CA's, TRE's, or even the rack its self.
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My rule is all fasteners get either loctite or antiseize.
There are about 40 grades/types of loctite but green, blue, or red will generally work on most fasteners. I don't even use green (the lightest), blue is medium strength, red is pretty tough.
overtorquing these little bolts is as bad as undertorquing them...too much stretches/breaks the bolt or strips the aluminum threads (have to helicoil the hole, maybe can be done in-car with enough room to move the rack). Correct torque with loctite is bulletproof.
There are about 40 grades/types of loctite but green, blue, or red will generally work on most fasteners. I don't even use green (the lightest), blue is medium strength, red is pretty tough.
overtorquing these little bolts is as bad as undertorquing them...too much stretches/breaks the bolt or strips the aluminum threads (have to helicoil the hole, maybe can be done in-car with enough room to move the rack). Correct torque with loctite is bulletproof.
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Not being critical...good on you that you fixed it!!
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