ado_dado83

I don't want to leave any weird marks that you can't buff out.
please advise
thx

Boston Driver

j/k

The "best" way is to patiently cut through the adhesive with fishing line/dental floss. Some use heat to loosen the adhesive first, nto a bad idea, but make sure you don't burn your paint!

Once the badge is off, you must use GooGone or similar product to remove the residual adhesive. Then make sure you wax/polish the newly exposed area, and your good to go!

paulroad

goo gone and dental floss...not waxed

ado_dado83

thanks, I'll try the brickwall first then the dental floss

5speed6 v.2

First and most important, make sure you have the time when you go to do this, don't be in a rush, or get frustrated.

I use a professional "heat gun", but you can use a 1800-2000 watt hair dryer if you do not have access to one. The hair dryer will work well but give it a little time to get the adhesive loose. Blow the air around the edges of the badge first, then directly onto the face.

I then use a small plastic spatula (available in a discount store), and start from one side of the badge prying up slowly. If it does not seem like it's going to lift off, apply more heat. I only remove the badge from one side to the other (left to right, or right to left), not both ends at the same time.

Once you have the badge removed, any residue left can be cleaned with a liquid called "Goo-Gone", avilable from a hardware store. Only a few drops will be necessary, and use a soft cloth or old t-shirt.

Good luck!

-

5speed6 v.2

Used the flame thrower method, but the cost of gas became too much

RLG

Heating the badges up and removing them with the floss was very easy, but getting ALL of the sticky residue off was not as simple.

The sticky stuff is sort of sponge like - it's thick, a lot more so than the residue left behind when removing a sticker from glass, etc. I had to soak it generously with the 3M before I could get it off. In fact, I ended up soaking paper towels with the adhesive remover, opened my trunk so the place where the letters were was in a horizontal position, and then I left the soaked paper towel on top of the sticky residue so it would soak in. I let it sit for a good amount of time, came back out, and the sticky stuff came off a lot easier.

Another problem was the "outline" of the sticky stuff. While I was able to get the main residue off pretty easily after soaking it, the edges of the residual sticky stuff were a lot harder to clean completely. It took me a good long time, some fingernail work, and some frustration, to get it ALL off. It was almost like as hard as I tried, there was still the outline of the sticky stuff. Anyhow, if that happens to you, too, just keep at it and you'll be able to get it all off. Don't settle for it being "barely visible" or "only visible from this angle." It comes off - keep working. 5speed6 is right - give yourself time, don't get too frustrated.

Lastly, I've read that on some cars, especially those with darker colors, the paint under the removed letters was darker than the rest of the trunk paint - especially on cars that were not garaged, or which were always in bright sunlight. I had no problems like this, but might consider it or STFA on the subject. Worst comes to worst, can always buy new badges.

Did i write all that? Sorry...

Potomac-Greg

If you use solvent and leave yourself with a very thin layer of goo, then removal gets harder. I found that basic rubbing (finger or towel) on the residue allowed me to literally roll it off cleanly. The more residue you have to work with, the better it rolls off. Less residue, and you may not get the "traction" required to lift it off.

I didn't use any solvent. Even after the badge is off, use the hairdryer to heat the goo, then rub.

joeycuccaro

is the best way to debage. Here is what my old a4 looked like.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/72866/audirear.jpg">

BrianE

My wife did that once!