Wind Noise-Driver Door
#1
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I am beginning to get a little bit of wind noise through the driver's door (upper corner). The car is 3 years old and I never noticed this before. Anyone else notice this?
Thanks,
BIK
Thanks,
BIK
#3
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I've had it on my 2000 since new. Its not particularly noticable until let's just say a combination of headwind and ground speed that adds up to 75-80. Thus not too noticable except at higher speeds or on windy days on the freeway. A friend with a 2.7 commented my 4.2 is much louder wind wise in those conditions.
Since new, I:
1. Have adjusted the door latch stiker plates very carefully to get the seal tight, yet make the door pretty easy to close and have the panels line up correctly. Helped a bit, costs only some time, and it made everything really line up well visually too.
2. Went over all the doors with a fine tooth comb, sticking an .001 feeler guage and piece of paper in the cracks to test gap. Biggest gap seems to be at leading edge of rear door seal on my car. But, the biggest thing I noticed is the glass does not seem to go fully into the rubber seal at the top; if you pull the rubber back on the upper edge it just slightly enters the seal. I've never found any documentation about an adjustment for window stop height. On my old C3 5000 (with their frequent window winder maladies) it was adjustable inside the door mechanism.
3. As a follow up to #2, I got the dealer to replace the rear left window seal under warranty. Didn't change much.
4. Found the cell phone antenna on the rear glass makes a lot of noise (unscrewing it temporarily makes a lot of difference at freeway speeds).
5. Changed the outer sunroof seal last year since I noticed a gap opened up where the gasket was fused together, and that it didn't seat real tight. Old one had felt edge, new one had rubber edge. Carefully adjusted sunroof closed position to Bentley spec. Helped a little.
6. Finally realized a bunch of noise is likely coming from the black plastic trim piece between the doors when I removed one for a different reason. Thus, I carefully applied clear silicone caulk to the inside edge of that piece near the top where the window corners meet it on both sides and where it meets the roofline, reinstalled them and cleared the excess caulk. Noise was reduced.
7. Since figuring out #6, read a post where someone id'ed noise coming from the movable seatbelt mechanism in the B pillar. I have audibly confirmed the same already, but haven't tried to pull that trim off yet. I may caulk more of the exterior piece to a point further down, or apply some stick-on foam insulation from a roll (stardard H/W store stuff for home doors and windows) to the inside to fill the air gap. A very cheap and easy possible improvement.
8. Thought about the wipers since I recall some Audi press about the 2002 wiper change as reducing noise. Not sure it's worth it. A few posters have changed them, though I think more to have them function better.
9. Thought about the side mirrors (I think 4.2's always had the bigger passenger mirror to start with that Audi had shrunk starting about 95 on regular C4/C5 A6's). Somewhere Audi bragged about the C6 mirrors being a lot quieter. No other C5 mirrors or tweaks available, so it's academic.
Since new, I:
1. Have adjusted the door latch stiker plates very carefully to get the seal tight, yet make the door pretty easy to close and have the panels line up correctly. Helped a bit, costs only some time, and it made everything really line up well visually too.
2. Went over all the doors with a fine tooth comb, sticking an .001 feeler guage and piece of paper in the cracks to test gap. Biggest gap seems to be at leading edge of rear door seal on my car. But, the biggest thing I noticed is the glass does not seem to go fully into the rubber seal at the top; if you pull the rubber back on the upper edge it just slightly enters the seal. I've never found any documentation about an adjustment for window stop height. On my old C3 5000 (with their frequent window winder maladies) it was adjustable inside the door mechanism.
3. As a follow up to #2, I got the dealer to replace the rear left window seal under warranty. Didn't change much.
4. Found the cell phone antenna on the rear glass makes a lot of noise (unscrewing it temporarily makes a lot of difference at freeway speeds).
5. Changed the outer sunroof seal last year since I noticed a gap opened up where the gasket was fused together, and that it didn't seat real tight. Old one had felt edge, new one had rubber edge. Carefully adjusted sunroof closed position to Bentley spec. Helped a little.
6. Finally realized a bunch of noise is likely coming from the black plastic trim piece between the doors when I removed one for a different reason. Thus, I carefully applied clear silicone caulk to the inside edge of that piece near the top where the window corners meet it on both sides and where it meets the roofline, reinstalled them and cleared the excess caulk. Noise was reduced.
7. Since figuring out #6, read a post where someone id'ed noise coming from the movable seatbelt mechanism in the B pillar. I have audibly confirmed the same already, but haven't tried to pull that trim off yet. I may caulk more of the exterior piece to a point further down, or apply some stick-on foam insulation from a roll (stardard H/W store stuff for home doors and windows) to the inside to fill the air gap. A very cheap and easy possible improvement.
8. Thought about the wipers since I recall some Audi press about the 2002 wiper change as reducing noise. Not sure it's worth it. A few posters have changed them, though I think more to have them function better.
9. Thought about the side mirrors (I think 4.2's always had the bigger passenger mirror to start with that Audi had shrunk starting about 95 on regular C4/C5 A6's). Somewhere Audi bragged about the C6 mirrors being a lot quieter. No other C5 mirrors or tweaks available, so it's academic.
#5
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<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/15643/dscn3078.jpg"></center><p>closing gap between upper window fram and car body.
I know this because I had noise when I fixed my window guides the first time....I had to go back in and re do the shims.....noise gone
I know this because I had noise when I fixed my window guides the first time....I had to go back in and re do the shims.....noise gone
#7
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I don't have the file here at work with easy to follow steps, but when I get home I can send it to you.
the door panel has only 2 screw, both up top on ends of door.
then just lift straight up, and door panel; comes off.
if you want to remove the panel, you will have to unplug about 7 wire harnesses, but that not 100% needed for your situation.
When the door panel is off there will be 4 allen bolts that hold the window in place and set the alignment.
The window frame is actually a seperate pice from the door, hence it can become out of allignment with the door. Look at the 4 allen bolts, there should already be shims in place from the factory, note where they are. then losen the top 2 bolts, but to not remove.
Next losen the bottom 2 bolts.....now you should be able to move the entire window from fotward and backward in it's mount.
You want to try to leave all shims where they are at from the factory, except the bottom right.you need to ad space between the window frame and the door. You may be able to just move the shim to do this, but i actiually had to add several washers. By adding space between the window frame and the door at that point, you are actually moving the top part of the window frame closer to the door jam and weather stripping when the door closes. just a feew milimeters does the trick, thus eliminating the wind noise.
should take you less than 45 minutes the first time...then maybe 20 the next time.
the door panel has only 2 screw, both up top on ends of door.
then just lift straight up, and door panel; comes off.
if you want to remove the panel, you will have to unplug about 7 wire harnesses, but that not 100% needed for your situation.
When the door panel is off there will be 4 allen bolts that hold the window in place and set the alignment.
The window frame is actually a seperate pice from the door, hence it can become out of allignment with the door. Look at the 4 allen bolts, there should already be shims in place from the factory, note where they are. then losen the top 2 bolts, but to not remove.
Next losen the bottom 2 bolts.....now you should be able to move the entire window from fotward and backward in it's mount.
You want to try to leave all shims where they are at from the factory, except the bottom right.you need to ad space between the window frame and the door. You may be able to just move the shim to do this, but i actiually had to add several washers. By adding space between the window frame and the door at that point, you are actually moving the top part of the window frame closer to the door jam and weather stripping when the door closes. just a feew milimeters does the trick, thus eliminating the wind noise.
should take you less than 45 minutes the first time...then maybe 20 the next time.
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