oppenheimer

(I posted this in 30v 2.8 engine forum as well, hope I'm not in troulbe for double-posting)

OK, long story, will try to keep short

One morning, wouldn't start (cranks fine, but doesn't fire). Even though it cranked OK, threw battery charger on it just to be sure, taking other car to work (but charger showed fully charged before I even got out the door).

Next day tried to verify spark and fuel, so laid one plug on block, cranked, plenty of spark (& plug was dry). Next loosened fuel line, cranked, plenty of spray, pump working! How to verify injectors are firing? Tried a generous spray of starting fluid, no start or hint of any ignition.

Conclusions: Its getting spark, so that seems to rule out ignition (but this doesn't verify timing of course). If it was just not getting fuel (injector problem, etc), starting fluid should have let it fire for a sec, so seems to rule out fuel delivery issue. Kinda stumped, it ran fine when last parked (several days ago now).

What else happened, what changed? Night before the no-start I backed it out of the garage to jump my classic Buick, to get it off the street (had washed engine, and cranked its old battery down trying to start). Jump procedure involved placing cables with engine off, starting Audi and letting run for a minute or two to try and build up some charge in Buick's Battery, then prior to cranking Buick shut off Audi engine (to avoid having Audi alternator trying to run Buick starter). Buick fired right up. Removed cables, put Audi back in garage.

I do not recall if I shut off Audi to remove cables, so I'm not sure if the no-start was the first start attempt after jump.

What, if anything, might jump have to do with current no-start? (I do not have an ODB scanner, so I can't tell you if there are any codes). Any suggestions before I have it towed to shop? Should I buy a scanner?

GBW

The Volvo had the antenna that reads the key fail, absolutely nothing would happen. The TT would start but immediately shut down once it started and would leave the immobilizer key idiot light lit.

Tell me more about the Buick...I'm sure it's more interesting than the one I have
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/81787/1968_buick.jpg">
76,000 original miles, 8-track still works...rather different; you don't see many wagons. I love dusting some of the ricers in a straight line...LOL

It was my grandmothers and has been in the family since February of 1968...

oppenheimer

It started!

Read in another post to hold the foot on the floor and crank till you think the starter is gonna catch fire, the way you would if it were flooded (which since its been several days, is difficult to imagine is the case). This worked.

Also read not to shut it down prior to coming off high idle. That is what I had done. So this time I let it run till idle dropped, and now it restarts as normal.

The Buick, it's a 71 GS, 350 motor, that I have owned for about 25 years. Was my first car, and only car till about 8 years ago. It has over 200K miles, still going strong. Motor was rebuilt at 100K, so rebuild has over 100K on it.

About 8 years ago I got round to doing the body work and paint, so its looking decent. A few things left to do, but it's a very good driver.

Looks like you are in CT? Where at? I'm in Milford. Haven't seen your wagon around, would have noticed it for certain.

GBW

Glad you got the A6 running! I'm up in Glastonbury....

4Driver4

Guessing that was my post. BTDT more than once. Glad it worked for ya.

Rocky-in-Connecticut

also you might want to drop octane level for faster burn. Carbon buildup in the 2.8L is a known issue.

GBW

So why does that work, and do you need to update your sig pic?

4Driver4

I should update to reflect the $7400 price, but too lazy.