the green amigo

Following up on my other thread I've purchased OEM rotors and Akebono pads. I'm going to tackle the job myself and have a full shop and tools at my disposal. I've having a difficult time locating a full writeup, or even better video on the removal of the rotors. I've searched far and wide but have only found bits and pieces. Does anyone have a link or some pointers to help me out? Thanks.

Huskerbob

As soon as I pull the calipers my rotors fall off with no help from me. Try pulling the calipers and see what happens.

the green amigo

That's very helpful, thank you.

the green amigo

My specific questions relate to the removal procedure of the HP2 calipers as most of the info out there is about the newer single piston calipers.

SloopJohnB@mac.com

Just remove the two big effing bolts that hold the HP2 calipers to the caliper bracket. They're in there with about 150 ft-lbs if not some locking compound. When you put them back in use loctite blue. Red on such big bolts just leads to problems.

johnkk

echoing SJB's comments on caliper bolts. Also, getting the first bolt back in can be a struggle, if the threads don't catch right away.

I have found that if you remove only the lower bolt and just loosen the top bolt, you can pivot the caliper back and wiggle the rotor out, if you hold your mouth right.

This saves having to suspend the caliper with a bungie and makes the re-install much easier. Once the new rotor is in place, just swing the caliper down and replace the lower bolt, and tighten both.

SloopJohnB@mac.com

Agree...only reason I would remove both of them is that by the time I get around to replacing rotors the calipers often need some work, especially the sliders if not the dust boots. I have two V8s over 10 years old and 170/110K so it's probably getting time to take a squint at the brake line hoses. They looked good this spring, but multiple CVJ boot failures and goose grease over everything probably takes its toll on the flexible brake lines. You can replace the flexible brake lines without removing the caliper, but you have to pull the caliper to do the dust boots and internal piston seals.
It's often amazing the crud that collects in the caliper cylinders over 10-15 years, even with annual or biennial fluid flushes and flushes with pad changes.

Just Me

Don't limit yourself to S6s. Search for HP-2. I've seen several - i cannot recall exactly where. Some are here.

Removing calipers - the main problem is that the bolts are very tight, and are accessed from the REAR of the caliper (much easier from below). Of course you also need to look carefully at how the sensors come apart (push in a tab and turn to remove from carrier).

Rotors have no set screw in them.

Calipers should be cleaned and lubricated ideally. The guide pins are VERY tight and if you are nto careful you can damage the star heads (torx?).

NJOY

Grant

the green amigo

Thanks guys you were very helpful. The caliper bolts were a real pain in the a**, it took a lot of pb blaster and a 3 ft long ratchet used for heavy duty trucks to finally loosen them up. I removed the bottom caliper bolt, loosened the top bolt and the rotor slid right out which saved me a lot time. I wanted to remove the entire caliper to clean and service but couldn't remove the sliders, the bleeder nipple was blocking access from the rear. It there a different way to remove them? Anyway greased up the sliders the best I could, sanded the hub, filed the pad contact points and now it looks like everything is working smoothly. I do hear a slight grinding at low speeds coming from the wheel hubs, am I correct to assume it's the wheel bearings? All in all a successful job so far, thanks for dealing with my questions.