Burning smell & heat from rear wheel!
08-08-2012, 10:23 AM
#1
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Burning smell & heat from rear wheel!
Hi all,
I had some bad squealing from the driver side rear tire area last night. When I stopped the car, I got out and noticed the driver side rear tire/wheel area was generating a LOT more heat than the other three tires/wheels, and there was a burning plastic, or rubber, smell.
Several months ago, I took the car to the dealer complaining about the squealing noise, of course when the service manager rode with me, the noise never made an apperance. The service manager did a cursory look, and said it's probably just a "raised area" on my brakes that will go away in time.
I'm bringing the car to the dealer this Friday-has anyone any idea what this could possibly be? I'm not up for spending another $1k+ (see my post about needing new battery), at this point I'll dump this POS car for a used Hyundai Accent if that's the case.
I had some bad squealing from the driver side rear tire area last night. When I stopped the car, I got out and noticed the driver side rear tire/wheel area was generating a LOT more heat than the other three tires/wheels, and there was a burning plastic, or rubber, smell.
Several months ago, I took the car to the dealer complaining about the squealing noise, of course when the service manager rode with me, the noise never made an apperance. The service manager did a cursory look, and said it's probably just a "raised area" on my brakes that will go away in time.
I'm bringing the car to the dealer this Friday-has anyone any idea what this could possibly be? I'm not up for spending another $1k+ (see my post about needing new battery), at this point I'll dump this POS car for a used Hyundai Accent if that's the case.
08-08-2012, 01:45 PM
#2
Rear brake locked in engaged position. May be something with parking brake (have you play with it?)
Our maybe brake carrier pins rusted and locked the piston carrier. It maybe piston.s boot cracked get water in.
You can raise the corner and try to turn the wheel with car in neutral to check.
99% you will need new brake pads., May be rotors. Carrier could cost $-$$. Brake assembly probably $$-$$$$.
This is standard stuff which any shop can do. so fool not waste money at the dealer.
Also brake assembly can be bought used from a junk yard.
Our maybe brake carrier pins rusted and locked the piston carrier. It maybe piston.s boot cracked get water in.
You can raise the corner and try to turn the wheel with car in neutral to check.
99% you will need new brake pads., May be rotors. Carrier could cost $-$$. Brake assembly probably $$-$$$$.
This is standard stuff which any shop can do. so fool not waste money at the dealer.
Also brake assembly can be bought used from a junk yard.
Last edited by beep-beep; 08-08-2012 at 01:47 PM.
08-08-2012, 05:06 PM
#6
AudiWorld Senior Member
On my A4 it was the parking brake lever on the caliper. I sprayed it with PB Blaster and got another year out of it. A remanufactured caliper cost me about $50 at a reputable foreign car parts store after core return. Easy job with the right tools.
A metric hex drive set is your friend.
A metric hex drive set is your friend.
08-08-2012, 08:53 PM
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I'm keeping my fingers crossed, but I have a feeling that, as usual, this will be a costly repair. When I get the news from the dealer on Friday, I'll update this posting with the results/why of the problem, and the cost.
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08-09-2012, 08:31 AM
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Lol
But in actuality it wasn't funny at all, I loved the car but was about to trade it in for Mazda6. This happened during winter when I had about 15% brake pad life left. I didn't have time to get it repaired and kept driving it and just ignored the extreme heat coming from the rear wheel well.
After a while it completely ATE my outer pad and it was just caliper on rotor. It spread rust particles coming off the rotor all over the driver side of the car, suspension components and wheel. The wheel had the most amount of rust caked on it I would say about 3-4 mmm thick
But in actuality it wasn't funny at all, I loved the car but was about to trade it in for Mazda6. This happened during winter when I had about 15% brake pad life left. I didn't have time to get it repaired and kept driving it and just ignored the extreme heat coming from the rear wheel well.
After a while it completely ATE my outer pad and it was just caliper on rotor. It spread rust particles coming off the rotor all over the driver side of the car, suspension components and wheel. The wheel had the most amount of rust caked on it I would say about 3-4 mmm thick
08-09-2012, 08:50 AM
#10
I do not think that problem with the brakes is unique to Audi.any car could have the same issue.
But you spend more money because you do it st the dealer. Replacing a caliper is very simple job. I know girls who can do it. A Chinese shop in Brooklyn will do it for $50. And again you can rebuild caliper for 100.
So consider alternatives to the dealership and you will be less pissed off by the cost.
But you spend more money because you do it st the dealer. Replacing a caliper is very simple job. I know girls who can do it. A Chinese shop in Brooklyn will do it for $50. And again you can rebuild caliper for 100.
So consider alternatives to the dealership and you will be less pissed off by the cost.