buy used or rebuilt engine a6 4.2l
#1
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I'm trying to figure out if I should buy a a used engine for my 2007 a6 4.2l or get it rebuilt. I can get the used engine between 3k-4k with under 100k miles. I wonder if its better to just get it rebuilt. I have no idea what it would cost and if this is a better option if the price is close. The engine in my car is close to 200k miles. Please advise. Thanks!
#2
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rebuilt is better only if you rebuild it with all oem parts and using and using the right audi/vw mechanic but it might cost more than a used one but will be almost new after rebuilding it
a used engine might have it's fair share of problems too unless you get lucky with it
a used engine might have it's fair share of problems too unless you get lucky with it
Last edited by chrisone; 01-02-2015 at 07:37 AM.
#3
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I'm trying to figure out if I should buy a a used engine for my 2007 a6 4.2l or get it rebuilt. I can get the used engine between 3k-4k with under 100k miles. I wonder if its better to just get it rebuilt. I have no idea what it would cost and if this is a better option if the price is close. The engine in my car is close to 200k miles. Please advise. Thanks!
these are not sbc-- don't go ".030 overbore, .010/.010 mains/rods," etc.
I believe the best answer is a rehabbed used motor. this can be tricky and still lead to heartache if you don't know the history of the used engine. But if it has good compression, the forensically examined filter shows no excessive metal, varnish/sludge look ok, then always be proactive and change out the known wear-out items including chains and tensioners, re-seal/gasket everything.
and don't be fooled by some 12/12k 'warranty' on the used motor-- very unlikely said warranty will cover leaks. one must do their due diligence with the rehab prior to install.
#4
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I'm trying to figure out if I should buy a a used engine for my 2007 a6 4.2l or get it rebuilt. I can get the used engine between 3k-4k with under 100k miles. I wonder if its better to just get it rebuilt. I have no idea what it would cost and if this is a better option if the price is close. The engine in my car is close to 200k miles. Please advise. Thanks!
#5
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Thanks for the insight everyone.
As for the current motor, the oil is milky. Its been sitting a while. When the engine starts, white smoke comes up from the exhaust. The mechanic said the head gasket is blown, chain and tensioners are off and something about the transmission. Like I said, it was a daily driver and I thought I got a good deal. The mechanic pulled some code but once I get the paper work in front of me I'll come back and post it.
As for the current motor, the oil is milky. Its been sitting a while. When the engine starts, white smoke comes up from the exhaust. The mechanic said the head gasket is blown, chain and tensioners are off and something about the transmission. Like I said, it was a daily driver and I thought I got a good deal. The mechanic pulled some code but once I get the paper work in front of me I'll come back and post it.
#6
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Thanks for the insight everyone.
As for the current motor, the oil is milky. Its been sitting a while. When the engine starts, white smoke comes up from the exhaust. The mechanic said the head gasket is blown, chain and tensioners are off and something about the transmission. Like I said, it was a daily driver and I thought I got a good deal. The mechanic pulled some code but once I get the paper work in front of me I'll come back and post it.
As for the current motor, the oil is milky. Its been sitting a while. When the engine starts, white smoke comes up from the exhaust. The mechanic said the head gasket is blown, chain and tensioners are off and something about the transmission. Like I said, it was a daily driver and I thought I got a good deal. The mechanic pulled some code but once I get the paper work in front of me I'll come back and post it.
I'd go the rebuild route if you want to keep the car, new gaskets, tensioners, etc. can't set you back that much. Won't be cheap but at least you know what you are dealing with (existing engine) vs. getting an unknown used problem.
Good luck though, let us know how turns out.
#7
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I will submit that no modern aluminum block/heads engine is designed to be 'rebuilt'. i'm not saying it *can't* be, but things like the cyl wall finish, bearing tolerances, etc were meant to be factory set and go the distance.
these are not sbc-- don't go ".030 overbore, .010/.010 mains/rods," etc.
I believe the best answer is a rehabbed used motor. this can be tricky and still lead to heartache if you don't know the history of the used engine. But if it has good compression, the forensically examined filter shows no excessive metal, varnish/sludge look ok, then always be proactive and change out the known wear-out items including chains and tensioners, re-seal/gasket everything.
and don't be fooled by some 12/12k 'warranty' on the used motor-- very unlikely said warranty will cover leaks. one must do their due diligence with the rehab prior to install.
these are not sbc-- don't go ".030 overbore, .010/.010 mains/rods," etc.
I believe the best answer is a rehabbed used motor. this can be tricky and still lead to heartache if you don't know the history of the used engine. But if it has good compression, the forensically examined filter shows no excessive metal, varnish/sludge look ok, then always be proactive and change out the known wear-out items including chains and tensioners, re-seal/gasket everything.
and don't be fooled by some 12/12k 'warranty' on the used motor-- very unlikely said warranty will cover leaks. one must do their due diligence with the rehab prior to install.
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