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DIY Rear Brake Pad Replacement
#21
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Just an update and a little more advice if possible.
I have just received a replacement tool from my supplier. Whilst still at work I tried it in the car park. It appears to be working in part!
There are apparently two options when deactivating the EPB with this tool<
1. For Pad Replacement
2. For Repair.
According to the instructions, the repair option does not retract the caliper sufficient to do a pad replacement or disc(rotor) replacement. I am not sure what this option is for.
Anyway the pont of this is that i can only get this option to work and not the first option. When i select the repair option, i hear the motors working for around 15 seconds and then the option of deactivated handbrake is displayed immediately followed by a warning on the dash of a handbrake malfunction.
Has anyone used this tool and also when ussing the Vag Com, how long do the motors cycle for to retract the caliper sufficiently? Do you think this will be sufficient for me to do the brake pad change.
I did not attach a battery charger as i was at work, though i read elsewhere that you get error messages without one. Is this just with regard to the Vag Com, or will this possibly be why i cannot get the ist option to work
Many thanks in anticipation.
I have just received a replacement tool from my supplier. Whilst still at work I tried it in the car park. It appears to be working in part!
There are apparently two options when deactivating the EPB with this tool<
1. For Pad Replacement
2. For Repair.
According to the instructions, the repair option does not retract the caliper sufficient to do a pad replacement or disc(rotor) replacement. I am not sure what this option is for.
Anyway the pont of this is that i can only get this option to work and not the first option. When i select the repair option, i hear the motors working for around 15 seconds and then the option of deactivated handbrake is displayed immediately followed by a warning on the dash of a handbrake malfunction.
Has anyone used this tool and also when ussing the Vag Com, how long do the motors cycle for to retract the caliper sufficiently? Do you think this will be sufficient for me to do the brake pad change.
I did not attach a battery charger as i was at work, though i read elsewhere that you get error messages without one. Is this just with regard to the Vag Com, or will this possibly be why i cannot get the ist option to work
Many thanks in anticipation.
#22
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Hi all,
Just thought i would let everyone one know that i managed a successful replacement of the rear break pads using the MaxiEST EST 201 EPB tool. I took plenty of pics so i will post them when i can. Also managed to do oil and filter change too.
I will post on the A4 FORUM, but unable to get new rotors on rear brakes. Could not get mounting allen key fixings free!!
Just thought i would let everyone one know that i managed a successful replacement of the rear break pads using the MaxiEST EST 201 EPB tool. I took plenty of pics so i will post them when i can. Also managed to do oil and filter change too.
I will post on the A4 FORUM, but unable to get new rotors on rear brakes. Could not get mounting allen key fixings free!!
#23
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Post them here, this is the A6 forum...or didn't you replace rears on a A6?
thx
thx
Hi all,
Just thought i would let everyone one know that i managed a successful replacement of the rear break pads using the MaxiEST EST 201 EPB tool. I took plenty of pics so i will post them when i can. Also managed to do oil and filter change too.
I will post on the A4 FORUM, but unable to get new rotors on rear brakes. Could not get mounting allen key fixings free!!
Just thought i would let everyone one know that i managed a successful replacement of the rear break pads using the MaxiEST EST 201 EPB tool. I took plenty of pics so i will post them when i can. Also managed to do oil and filter change too.
I will post on the A4 FORUM, but unable to get new rotors on rear brakes. Could not get mounting allen key fixings free!!
#24
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#25
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#26
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Have not been able to get photos uploaded, so have put on photobucket:
http://s216.photobucket.com/albums/c...20replacement/
http://s216.photobucket.com/albums/c...20replacement/
#28
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Folks,
I just finished doing my rear brakes on my 2006 A6 3.2Q yesterday, and I have a few tips.
1) used VAG com to open parking brake according to procedure at ross-tech site - worked fine
2) needed a T-30 Torx (i think) to remove the rotor retaining screw (came off pretty easily
3) needed to use an 18MM shallow-socket with the wheel wrench (in trunk) as extension to remove the 2 carrier retaining bolts
4) used OEM pads that provided replacement metal clips, and caliper bolts (with fresh loc-tite)
5) had the rotors turned at local shop for $15 per rotor. They checked the rotors to make sure they were in-spec.
6) when i went to reassemble the calipers, I had to compress the piston in the caliper (like i've done on other cars). I used a flat piece of metal (the backing plate from the used pad) and a set of channel locks. A large c-clamp would have worked better probably, but I didn't have one available.
7) Used VAG to close the parking brake, and ran the function test.
Life is good. I've noticed that the parking brake doesn't make as much noise / run as long compared to prior, probably due to the parking brake having to travel less to compress the brakes.
In total, I spent $80 on the pad set (proably spent too much, but didn't have time) at the dealer, and $30 turning the rotors. I could probably have completed the whole job for under $100 if i had planned ahead and purchased the pad set online.
I just finished doing my rear brakes on my 2006 A6 3.2Q yesterday, and I have a few tips.
1) used VAG com to open parking brake according to procedure at ross-tech site - worked fine
2) needed a T-30 Torx (i think) to remove the rotor retaining screw (came off pretty easily
3) needed to use an 18MM shallow-socket with the wheel wrench (in trunk) as extension to remove the 2 carrier retaining bolts
4) used OEM pads that provided replacement metal clips, and caliper bolts (with fresh loc-tite)
5) had the rotors turned at local shop for $15 per rotor. They checked the rotors to make sure they were in-spec.
6) when i went to reassemble the calipers, I had to compress the piston in the caliper (like i've done on other cars). I used a flat piece of metal (the backing plate from the used pad) and a set of channel locks. A large c-clamp would have worked better probably, but I didn't have one available.
7) Used VAG to close the parking brake, and ran the function test.
Life is good. I've noticed that the parking brake doesn't make as much noise / run as long compared to prior, probably due to the parking brake having to travel less to compress the brakes.
In total, I spent $80 on the pad set (proably spent too much, but didn't have time) at the dealer, and $30 turning the rotors. I could probably have completed the whole job for under $100 if i had planned ahead and purchased the pad set online.
#29
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I live in NJ, going to change my 2005 a6 3.2L rear brake pads, but confused should I buy
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...TQ:MOTORS:1123
to change my car's rear brake pads or this can be done easyly without software. I have no life left on my pads and caliper about to touch rotors.
I will apreciate help...
agz
#30
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Will I need to buy both the stand alone and the vagcom? Or will the vagcom be enough?
Going the route of the VAGCOM is going to be the preffered route to the brake job and the link to rosstech will apply.
The stand alone tool will have it's own set of instructions that come with it, and you would follow those to do your brakes and the ross tech link will then be totally irrelevant.
The standalone tool is about half the cost of the vagcom, but then again all it does is rear brakes, the rosstech vagcom is more money but it also allows you to read check engine light codes, clear those codes, you can do a whole lot of diagnoistic things like read coil pack voltages in real time, you can read the operating blocks for all tour emissions electronics such as O2 sensors, MAP sensor, etc etc. It also allows you to change and unlock options your car may not have come with, such as window and sunroof closing when it begins to rain, open and close all windows from your key remote, and the list goes on.
Hope this helps.
The stand alone tool will have it's own set of instructions that come with it, and you would follow those to do your brakes and the ross tech link will then be totally irrelevant.
The standalone tool is about half the cost of the vagcom, but then again all it does is rear brakes, the rosstech vagcom is more money but it also allows you to read check engine light codes, clear those codes, you can do a whole lot of diagnoistic things like read coil pack voltages in real time, you can read the operating blocks for all tour emissions electronics such as O2 sensors, MAP sensor, etc etc. It also allows you to change and unlock options your car may not have come with, such as window and sunroof closing when it begins to rain, open and close all windows from your key remote, and the list goes on.
Hope this helps.