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Thanks for the reply, I am at a loss at this point since it went from running with no issues to running like dog crap. I will be looking at vacuum lines next. I would hate to find out my ECU is the culprit, but it would be my luck.
I DO remember what fixed it. my LOW PRESSURE FUEL PUMP. the electric in tank pump was bad and so was the control module on the top of the tank! I got replacements from a junk yard!
here is a scope describing the fuel pressure readings i'm getting. as I said I've replaced the HPFP. the G247 sensor is over 100 USD I hate to replace it for no reason... any advice anyone? yellow is fuel pressure actual, green is spec, red is engine speed. you can see shortly after it reports 0 fuel pressure for a millisecond it stalls...
The square waves were indicative of when the fuel pump control module above the electric pump ontop of the tank, under the backseat was failing and giving faulty readings.
The square waves were indicative of when the fuel pump control module above the electric pump ontop of the tank, under the backseat was failing and giving faulty readings.
To answer what i have experienced
My car is stumbling at idle. My wagon was running fine and it started randomly during a cold spell this winter
Since performing the repairs below, it was driving normally other than poor idle but seems to be getting worse.
My primary codes latched are intake air leak and high fuel rail pressure as well as the misfire codes that come with the previous codes. I have been unsuccessful in finding the source of my air/ vacuum leak
So far I have replaced the PCV valve, HP fuel pump, injectors, coils, spark plugs, intake gaskets, all fuel related sensors, all intake sensors, have performed a smoke test attempting to find a leak without any success
I was leaning towards lpfp however i have not replaced the low pressure fuel pump yet since I haven't resolved my vacuum leak. I am starting to believe my vacuum/air leak is coming from a faulty rear main seal.
I do have a lot of carbon build up at the intake,/ exhaust valve port area but I didn't want to dig into that unless I had to since it was driving fine until recently.
I have ordered a billet rear seal since the seal seems to be a weak link of this engine design however I am not looking forward to pulling the engine to perform the repair since my garage space is limited and would be a pain to have a car taking up space for too long.
I will post my findings however I suspect it will be a while before I muster the courage to pull the engine to replace the rear seal since I will feel obligated to repair/ replace any other maintenance items while the engine is out; seals, hoses, water pump, walnut blasting heads, etc.
Its been frustrating to say the least.
I do appreciate the input though, so thanks
03-20-2022, 01:39 PM
