Tanket

Last time I did my rear pads on my '06 A6 I found a post that listed the instructions from a manual for backing off the rear brake motors manually. While I'm searching now I see that the old question of whether it can be done without a VagCom is still around and all I'm finding is posts that say it needs the Vag. I did it without the Vag using the info in the post that I can't find now and it lasted many years without any problems and was very easy to do. I've searched a few of the forums but I guess I'm using the wrong wording. Any help finding that older post would be greatly appreciated.

MainlandMig

i read a few times that although it can be done without electronically releasing the brake by doing it manually u are putting excess stress/risk on system. (just what ive read)

maybe not what u looking for but here is a brief summary of what u do in place of VCDS

Panzerknacker post


here is a good brake DIY

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...php?p=23996237

KnappAttack

Don't believe everything you read. Piece of cake without Vag-Com. There is no extra stress or risk. Two bolts to take off actuators and torx bit to back off, bolt back up and your done. Easy if you have even a slight bit of common sense and mechanical background.

Tanket

Thanks guys, I've done it manually once before and it worked fine, just didn't remember exactly what the procedure was. These are my forum search results on the subject if anybody cares to read them:
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"There are a few other threads about doing rear brakes and they are pretty straightforward. After reading a few of those threads I wanted to concur that removing the motor and retracting the parking brake manually is a viable option.
Once you have the caliper off there are 2 torx screws hold the parking brake motor on. Once that is off there is one torx screw that tightens and loosens the brake. Turning right retracts the brake and turning left sets it, so its opposite of what you may be used to. Retract it enough to fit over the new pads, then tighten it down a little before putting the motor back on... but not so tight that the brakes are engaged without the parking brake set.
No expensive shops or computers required."
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"I just put a 3rd set of pads on a6 for a friend, i did mine and 2 others with a electric park brake,its simple,all you have to do is remove the motor,use a torx bit and spin the puck in or out not sure witch way i spun it,then press the caliper piston in for new pads,bolt motor back on ,activate hand brake after all is done a couple times,,,piece of cake!"
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"Just thought I'd share my experience. Thanks to all who have previously posted theirs...

Rear brake pads were a really easy job, even without a VAGCOM. Personally, since I'm not sure I'd use a vagcom for anything else, I'm glad I didn't spend the money on one.

I was getting the very annoying brake alarm going off on my A6. I was pretty sure it was the rear brake pads, since my dealer had told me they were getting thin. I ordered some new ones from autohaus.az.

I cycled the electronic parking brake a few times just for kicks before I started. Took one wheel off, and removed the two bolts holding the caliper assembly to the caliper carrier (used two wrenches as previously described). I placed the whole caliper assembly on the wheel I had placed just behind, underneath the rear of the car (you don't want to dangle the heavy caliper by the brake line). Removed the two 30 Torx screws holding the parking brake motor to the caliper. I then turned the mechanism on the caliper clockwise (turns very easily) until I met some resistance, and used a C-clamp to gently compress the piston, having previously loosened the brake fluid reservoir cap.

I popped off the old pads; they were pretty thin. My rotors looked pretty decent still; not much of a lip, unlike the fronts which I'll change out next week. My new pads came with new antisqueal clips, but the new clips seemed to be the wrong size--the opening in the middle was wider than the old clips. I re-used the old clips. The pads also came with some new caliper bolts, with a ring of anti-seize compound already applied.

I repeated on the other side, and anti-seize compounded the contact area of the wheel hub, and re-torqued all the wheel bolts. Test drove the car--and Hallelujah! the brake alert was cancelled as the car sensed the new thicker rear brake pads. No active cancellation of the alert was required.

In summary, this is an easy job which any home mechanic can easily do. I absolutely agree with others that a Vagcom is not at all necessary."
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"Release to electric handbrake
when jacking up the car, make sure you have stoppers to prevent car fm moving
and use a stand
Remove the calipers
use, hex tool and remove two screws mounting the motor to the calipers. on the caliper where the motor centre pinon is fitted to, physically turn the the centre female gear with a suitable tool, to retract the calipers,(note the caliper piston will not retract, you need to push it, dont use force) I cant remember which way to turn, clockwise or anti clockwise. The caliper psiton will clamp if you turn the wrong way, make sure you have the caliper on the disc rotor, otherwise the piston will pop out in case wrong direction, once you have retract the screw, you can easily push back the piston, remove calipers and replace to brake pads, do same for both side and install back the motor and screws.
Never use excessive force on caliper piston and motor to avoid damaging it. Please also note that this is not the proper way and there is risk of damaging the parking brake system, unless you know exactly what you are doing, using a Ross-tech Vag Com is much easier and you also need adaptation after replacing the brakes"
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"Also, I pretty much figured out that you can get the piston to withdraw without needing the Mactool or the vagcom. You can remove the motor from the caliper using a torx socket to remove the two bolts. Once removed, inserting the torx socket into the back of the caliper and turning clockwise will with allow you to compress the piston. You can see this proceedure in the Bently manual as it is what they tell you to do when rebuilding the piston seals"