09-07-2016, 02:53 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
- Audi A6 C6 How to Change Serpentine Belt<br>Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs.
Serpentine belt change on 4.2
01-23-2013, 12:21 PM
#11
I did this on my car 2005 4.2 BNK
1) raise the front of the car and remove the lower engine cover
2) from under the car reach up and feel where number #2 is on the first diagram, pull down on the belt and get a feel for the amount it moves
3) loosen but do NOT remove the tensioner lock nut, the nut with the arrow in the second diagram
4) in the second diagram the torque wrench is covering the adjustment nut, turn it back and forth, mine was stuck, spray the pivot point with PB blaster or Liquid wrench to loosen it
5) I used a couple 12" socket extensions to remove the belt, just loosen the tensioner and pop the belt off the pulleys
6) install new belt, make sure it is routed correctly and seated properly
7) using two wrenches together, turn the adjusting bolt (the one with the torque wrench in the second diagram) to 70Nm or 52ft/lbs while at the same time tightening the locking nut to about 22Nm or 16ft/lbs. The torque on the locking nut is not crucial but you do want to get the preload on the belt very close. For this you could jury a torque wrench box wrench combo, I used my arm to feel the torque, then again I been turning wrenches for 25 years. After you tighten the locking nut reach up to spot #2 in diagram 1 and feel how much movement there is and compare to the movement in your memory of the original belt.
8) start the car and check the belt
Simple right, once the car was up and the lower cover was off it took me 15 minutes, I did this 12k miles ago. If you do not trust your feel for torque you can spend the 4 hours to remove and reinstall the nose.
BTW, I did this right after doing my valve cover gaskets which took all of 45 minutes including new plugs and air filter.
1) raise the front of the car and remove the lower engine cover
2) from under the car reach up and feel where number #2 is on the first diagram, pull down on the belt and get a feel for the amount it moves
3) loosen but do NOT remove the tensioner lock nut, the nut with the arrow in the second diagram
4) in the second diagram the torque wrench is covering the adjustment nut, turn it back and forth, mine was stuck, spray the pivot point with PB blaster or Liquid wrench to loosen it
5) I used a couple 12" socket extensions to remove the belt, just loosen the tensioner and pop the belt off the pulleys
6) install new belt, make sure it is routed correctly and seated properly
7) using two wrenches together, turn the adjusting bolt (the one with the torque wrench in the second diagram) to 70Nm or 52ft/lbs while at the same time tightening the locking nut to about 22Nm or 16ft/lbs. The torque on the locking nut is not crucial but you do want to get the preload on the belt very close. For this you could jury a torque wrench box wrench combo, I used my arm to feel the torque, then again I been turning wrenches for 25 years. After you tighten the locking nut reach up to spot #2 in diagram 1 and feel how much movement there is and compare to the movement in your memory of the original belt.
8) start the car and check the belt
Simple right, once the car was up and the lower cover was off it took me 15 minutes, I did this 12k miles ago. If you do not trust your feel for torque you can spend the 4 hours to remove and reinstall the nose.
BTW, I did this right after doing my valve cover gaskets which took all of 45 minutes including new plugs and air filter.
Last edited by newa6er; 01-23-2013 at 12:31 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Trnoey (03-14-2020)
10-26-2016, 07:01 PM
#12
AudiWorld Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Edison, New Jersey
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the writeup "newa6er", it really helped setting expectation for my serpertine belt change this coming weekend.
Any way you could provide similar writeup for valve cover gasket?
Any way you could provide similar writeup for valve cover gasket?
I did this on my car 2005 4.2 BNK
1) raise the front of the car and remove the lower engine cover
2) from under the car reach up and feel where number #2 is on the first diagram, pull down on the belt and get a feel for the amount it moves
3) loosen but do NOT remove the tensioner lock nut, the nut with the arrow in the second diagram
4) in the second diagram the torque wrench is covering the adjustment nut, turn it back and forth, mine was stuck, spray the pivot point with PB blaster or Liquid wrench to loosen it
5) I used a couple 12" socket extensions to remove the belt, just loosen the tensioner and pop the belt off the pulleys
6) install new belt, make sure it is routed correctly and seated properly
7) using two wrenches together, turn the adjusting bolt (the one with the torque wrench in the second diagram) to 70Nm or 52ft/lbs while at the same time tightening the locking nut to about 22Nm or 16ft/lbs. The torque on the locking nut is not crucial but you do want to get the preload on the belt very close. For this you could jury a torque wrench box wrench combo, I used my arm to feel the torque, then again I been turning wrenches for 25 years. After you tighten the locking nut reach up to spot #2 in diagram 1 and feel how much movement there is and compare to the movement in your memory of the original belt.
8) start the car and check the belt
Simple right, once the car was up and the lower cover was off it took me 15 minutes, I did this 12k miles ago. If you do not trust your feel for torque you can spend the 4 hours to remove and reinstall the nose.
BTW, I did this right after doing my valve cover gaskets which took all of 45 minutes including new plugs and air filter.
1) raise the front of the car and remove the lower engine cover
2) from under the car reach up and feel where number #2 is on the first diagram, pull down on the belt and get a feel for the amount it moves
3) loosen but do NOT remove the tensioner lock nut, the nut with the arrow in the second diagram
4) in the second diagram the torque wrench is covering the adjustment nut, turn it back and forth, mine was stuck, spray the pivot point with PB blaster or Liquid wrench to loosen it
5) I used a couple 12" socket extensions to remove the belt, just loosen the tensioner and pop the belt off the pulleys
6) install new belt, make sure it is routed correctly and seated properly
7) using two wrenches together, turn the adjusting bolt (the one with the torque wrench in the second diagram) to 70Nm or 52ft/lbs while at the same time tightening the locking nut to about 22Nm or 16ft/lbs. The torque on the locking nut is not crucial but you do want to get the preload on the belt very close. For this you could jury a torque wrench box wrench combo, I used my arm to feel the torque, then again I been turning wrenches for 25 years. After you tighten the locking nut reach up to spot #2 in diagram 1 and feel how much movement there is and compare to the movement in your memory of the original belt.
8) start the car and check the belt
Simple right, once the car was up and the lower cover was off it took me 15 minutes, I did this 12k miles ago. If you do not trust your feel for torque you can spend the 4 hours to remove and reinstall the nose.
BTW, I did this right after doing my valve cover gaskets which took all of 45 minutes including new plugs and air filter.
10-26-2016, 09:10 PM
#13
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
There's a few write-ups on the valve cover gasket job...it's actually pretty darn easy if you have the right tools:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-...a6-c6-2857892/
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bradstera2
Audi Original "S" Cars
1
04-15-2006 03:40 PM
buch434
Audi 90 / 80 / Coupe quattro / Cabriolet
1
11-14-2004 06:13 PM
brrman
A4 (B5 Platform) Discussion
1
07-15-2002 06:14 PM
1997, 2001, 2003, 42, a6, a8, alternator, audi, belt, replace, replacement, replece, s8, serpentine, serpine
