Stripped Engine Plug on 3.2 RepairingUpper Timing Chain Tensioners & Cam Girdle Seals
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Accidentally stripped out the engine plug (6mm hex) and cannot install the locking pin to go any further with 3.2 Upper Timing Chain Tensioners & Cam Girdle Seals repair. Was trying to reseal everything and replace the timing chain tensioners. The pjug is a complete PITA to reach and makes it that much more of a challenge. Any advice how to remove the plug without pulling the engine. I've been following "That African Guy" / kelisko on YouTube for his fantastic videos and the forums here as well. Thanks anyone that has an idea.
#2
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When I did mine I never used the crank locking pin. I just opened both sides and locked BOTH cams down, then only worked on one side at a time. With the other cams locked, the engine can not move.
As for removal, you can try to hammer in a Torx bit or TripleSquare bit (thats slightly bigger so it gets "wedged" in there) and get it out that way. Or the old tried and true "Easy Outs".
As for removal, you can try to hammer in a Torx bit or TripleSquare bit (thats slightly bigger so it gets "wedged" in there) and get it out that way. Or the old tried and true "Easy Outs".
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Thanks for the reply. I’ve tried to JB Weld & Epoxy a hex in the plug. Also tried various “EZ Outs” but to nothing has worked yet.
But I’ll try your approach. Lock one side down, do the required fixes, then move to the other side?
But I’ll try your approach. Lock one side down, do the required fixes, then move to the other side?
#4
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It really shouldn't be "stuck" in there. Maybe try rocking the engine (via the crank) back and forth ever so slightly while trying to loosen the pin. Maybe the engine is just pressed hard against the locking pin and causing it to bind up?
#5
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Do the repair on one side, then remove the cam locking bolts from both sides. Then turn the engine over a few times, just to make sure. Then lock down both sets of cams again and proceed to the other side for the repairs.
#6
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If I were faced with that situation I would use a "disposable" screwdriver and use it as a punch on the hole plug. Try to avoid the the surface that seals against the crankcase. The combination of the impact from the hammer as well as the imparted torque should break the plug free and depending on the size of your hands, you should be able to reach up and turn it by hand though you may have to get past the o-ring seal before that can happen. Once you crack it loose, even the stripped drive might work. Just in case it was not made clear; the plug requires a T-40 bit.
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