bballfreak

I have a leak on the back of the engine in my 2005 A6 3.2l quattro
I have the bought OE gaskets.
If someone has done this procedure and give some tips?

raj99

I did this about 9 month ago. You just remove whatever is above the valve covers, the wiring to the coilpacks, then the nuts that hold down the valve cover gaskets. When installing new gaskets, make sure to place a dab of RTV in the corners of the arcs of the gasket. This would be a good time to take out the spark plugs to check if oil has seeped in the spark plug columns. If it has, clean out with old microfiber rag (this is about all this rag is going to be used for after this) to pick up all debris in the columns.

Installation is the reverse of the removal.

The only caveat that I'll add is make sure you have the RIGHT tool(s). In fact one thing which was worth its weight in gold was an adapter at the end of the socket extension which allowed 360 degree swiveling and thereby allowed me to reach the bolts which were otherwise near inaccessible.

Just make sure you remove ALL the bolts, and then gently tap the valve cover and it should release very easily.

I did this job in combination with a number of others, but this a job that should you want to change your air filter and spark plugs...well now would be THE perfect time to do so. Also, make sure you clean out the snow screen when you do the air filter.

Oh BTW, here's the quick DIY: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...gaskets+swivel

bballfreak

Thanks, Raj. I do have all the tools, the one you mentioned. Thanks so much

raj99

your welcome. The most 'difficult' part of the whole job is basically getting to the valve covers off; holding back the coolant reservoir, removing the air filter assembly, taking off the coil packs, etc...overall it's pretty easy, and most mechanics could get it all done, with a new air filter installed and new spark plugs in about an hour.

r1racer

Just finished the right side. I would add that before you even start, pull out the plugs and look down the chambers and try and see of it is indeed the valve cover or another gasket causing the leak. There appear to be 3 different gaskets(valve cover/one in cylinder head/head gasket).

In my case, I had think I had a leak in both the valve cover and whatever the one inside of the head is called. Not certain though. The Beck Arnley kits include the additional gasket inside the cylinder head but you can't replace it unless you remove the entire head. At least that's what it looks like...someone correct me if I'm wrong.







Anyway, as stated, it's a simple job that will take about an hour or less per side. No special tools are needed for either side. The one torx screw that is hard to get to is the on the bottom of the cover closest to the front of the car. I used a 3/8 ratchet and 3 inch extension on a T30 torx socket with no problem.



Unscrew the 12 bolts, unclip two connections and pull the thing off...it took a little force so don't be scared to give it a tug. Also, don't worry about the torx screws falling and getting lost...they stay inside the valve cover and do not come all of the way out.



When placing the new gasket on the back of the valve cover make sure to snap the torx screws back into the gasket. This holds the gasket tight against the valve cover. Reassemble and torque to Audi specs (I simply tightened them a 1/4 turn past lock) as they are not on very tight. BTW the gasket was hard and brittle so I am going to do the left side anyway. Not a bad idea to replace at the 105k service (leak or no leak) if your going to be changing plugs and filter since that's half of the job. Also, I didn't bother with the sealant since Audi doesn't use any.

r1racer

Also be careful when you pull off the cover...I ended up breaking this vacuum line.

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...K+ENGINE+LIGHT

NR04

Awesome.... thanks again R1racer! I need to do this on the driver side. Have the gasket already but been putting it off. Your tip will really come in handy when I finally start the job.

r1racer

Passenger's side is the same as the driver's but removing the valve cover is a bit tricky unless you cut one of the zip ties holding the coil pack wire harness (which I would have done in retrospect).

After the air box and coil packs are out cut this zip tie. It will give you more wiggle room so you don't damage any of the lines when you remove the cover.



Then move this line from it's clamp. Don't try to pull the clamp out of the valve cover.



Unscrew the 12 screws and pull off the cover. If you don't cut the coil pack zip tie you have to pull it toward you, and then up at an angle to get out of there...takes a little patience. Just be mindful of the surrounding lines and vacuum hoses.

am_ver

What are the symptoms that indicate this is the issue? Are folks doing this as part of standard maintenance without any symptoms/issues?

r1racer

Oil in one or more of the spark plug tubes/on the coil packs or leaking around the cover. However, it could be the gasket in the head as well.

Do you mind posting the torque specs?