oilyman.2

I have traced a recent noise increase to a rear passenger side wheel bearing. I just wodered if any of you guys has any tips on the job of replacement. I assume I will need to remove all the wishbone and drive shaft and press the old one out as I assume it is not a bolted bearing. Any tips?

yodasfro

Yes it's a press operation. You either need at least a 12 ton press or hubshark type wheel bearing tool.

Badlildoggy

Currently doing a front, bearing came apart on me while removing the hub. Had to use a separator puller to get the race off the hub. The full bearing with module is available as an assembly. I have a press and tried to press the bearing out just to try it, wouldn’t budge. Make sure you clean out the triple square bolts good to get your bit in all the way, I stripped a bolt a bit during removal.

oilyman.2

Hi Folks, thanks for the input. I have been too busy this week to tackle the problem. So have had to put up with the drone from the back, luckily only needed to cover a few miles. Good point about the double 12 bolts they dont seem to have much depth and seem to be a problem even before they get filled up with dirt they are easy to strip. Hope to at least get the wheel off and work out best way forward in the next few days. Would be nice to know the bearing details so I can get it ordered from decent bering company before I start if anyone knows.

Badlildoggy

Rock Auto if you are in the US or Canada, get the bearing with module, don’t get the bearing by itself. It’s only $20-30 more and will save you the hassle should you bend up the original module trying to press the bearing out. I paid $70 CAN for a good SKF bearing with module assy. Don’t get a cheap bearing. Good luck.

oilyman.2

Hi, One of the problems with preparing for this job is there doesnt seem to be any pictures of the Hub. I am lead to believe the bearing is pressed into the suspension arm wheras in the following year it was a bearing in a 4 bolt flange that bolted / pressed onto the arm.. There is quite a good link on this site describing the job but the photos refered to in the write up seem to be missing. I am in the UK but I will have a look at the Rock Auto site to see exactly what they are selling. Quite agree about bearing quality, no point in doing all the work and fitting a chocolate teapot. Incidentally do you know if it is a roller or ball bearing race, I suspect the latter as there seems no means of adjusing pressure. Thanks for your interest.

Badlildoggy

The bearing assemblies are the same for front and back. The bearing is a double style ( 2 ball bearings in one assy ) that is pressed into a 4 bolt flange. The hub has a female spline to receive the CV axle make spline. The hub is then pressed into the bearing. The hub/ bearing assy needs to be prepared before install.

Hope that helps!

oilyman.2

Hi Badildoggy, Thanks for that info very clear, It would seem I have been mislead by local workshop into believing that my pre facelift model did not have a 4 Bolt Flange. Many thanks

Badlildoggy

Yikes Mate, I hope I haven’t mislead you, mine is a 2002 so I can only speak of that model, I am not certain if there is a design change from pre to post facelift…. Rock auto shows bearing only for the rear so your shop may be right!

oilyman.2

No worries, it will become obvious eventually. I am so busy at the moment I might even give the work to a Local Garage. Its just I usually prefer to do the work myself.