Aarononymous

The timing belt doesn't have to come all the way off, just mark it and slip it off the pass. side cam gear. You don't need to pull the front off either. Let me know if you want to tackle it.

Aarononymous

directly above the tensioner pulley, were the belt intersects. You have to take out the bracket with the hose connected at the end, so you can do it by slipping the belt off the cam gear.

01S8

yes i want to do this asap.
thanks, i think i see in the pic where the housing is. so i should just buy that cam locking tool online, the t-stat, and seal, and i will be set?
from PaulW's link that tool looks like $130.
the t-stat/seal are like $43 from the dealer.
around $26 online at smitty's parts.

Aarononymous

The ones I've done only needed the bar in terms of special tools. It's a bit expensive but cheaper than taking it in. Basically you'll want to strip the motor to the condition in the photo. I think it's a 19mm for ther tensioner on the ribbed belt, which is down by the alternator, and 32mm for the fan clutch, but an air hammer loosens it just the same, remember it's left hand thread. Also pull the pulley off behind it, the 3 10mm bolts.

Pull all the timing covers off, You don't even need to take the pulley of the crank, but it helps to see that the timing belt stays aligned with the crank.

Use the bar and check that the timing is aligned, there is a mark on the crank pulley that lines up with the cover, that you should be able to insert the bar with minimal force. Notice the bar has 2 large and 2 small posts.

Once you have the timing checked you can mark the belt in a few spots, like both crank pulleys and an idler or crank if accessible. find some vicegrips or something and lightly lock the belt on the ds cam gear, and an idler if you can, just mark it to insure you can reinstall it like it was. Next compress the tensioner with an 8mm hex socket and a long ratchet/breaker bar. Use quality tools here. You'll want to measure the extension of the tensioner piston, then loosen the pivot a bit and compress & lock it, a metal hanger piece fits perfect. Compress slowly but with a lot of pressure.
Once it's compressed you should be able to slide the pulley off the cam gear and access the bracket with t-stat. There are 3 torx bolts holding it on, 2 where the t-stat is and 1 on the bottom on the other side.
Just put a large drain pan under that area. R&R the t-stat, noting position.
Installation is the same, to get the timing belt back on you can use the bar on the other cam gear and move it a few degrees either way to help get the belt on.
Double check the timing, turn over 2 times at the crank. Refill and bleed the system.

probably 4-5 hours the first time.

PaulW

And I would change the timing belt, tensioner pulleys, water pump etc.

Unless you want to do it again at 90K.

01S8

well hopefully i will have the cds in the next couple days.

im going to wait on the belt/water pump/pulleys. thats another $400 or so i dont need to spend for 3 more years.

could someone please post the correct way to bleed the cooling system when im done?

PaulW

It's outlined in the Bently, but just run the car and fill the resevoir then crack the bleed screws on the heater pipes when the heater is set to HI.