ricoblanco

After somebody posted about a broken spring being the source of a clunking sound eminating from the front end, I decided to see if that was the culprit, as I had been plagued with the same symptoms. Sure enough, the lower part of my spring broke!
I just performed the replacement today (took a while to gather all the parts and tools) and figured I would share my experiences. I'm sure this procedure could be used on the facelift models as well, only I think you have to deal with disconnecting the headlight leveling system.

<b>What you need</b>

Torque wrench
6mm Allen wrench
Adjustable wrench (large)
17mm &amp; 18mm crescent wrenches
Large and small socket wrenches
13mm, 17mm, 18mm sockets
18mm spark plug socket
Long and short socket wrench extensions
Strut nut (part # N 101 064 02)
Spring compressors ($30 at Autozone, if you like a little risk in your life)
Spring (part # 4D0 411 105 DA, have dealership check for proper type for your vehicle)

<b>Disclaimer:</b> This procedure is intended as a guide for "do it yourselfers". This is a potentially dangerous procedure, perform at your own risk. I assume no responsibility for mishaps due to inexperience or matters beyond my control. This is my first attempt at a write up, so any comments or pointers would be helpful.

I used the procedure posted on Audipages for the <a href="http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/susp_whls_brake_steer/controlarmreplace.html">front control arm replacement</a> to guide me on removing the sway bar attachments and dropping the straight lower control arm.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/StraightArmdropped.jpg">

After that, it is quite easy to remove the strut and spring assembly. Just remove the two 13mm nuts located under the hood in the strut tower. To access them, remove the black plastic cover that encompasses the brake fluid reservoir and the two rubber plugs. While removing the second nut, hold onto the strut below so it doesn't fall.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Strutmountbolts.jpg">

After removing the strut assembly, it is now time for the fun part, compressing the spring. Knowing that this part is dangerous, I opted to buy a hydraulic spring compressor for ~$140 on eBay. Unfortunately, it worked well compressing the broken spring, but it did not compress enough for the new one. Being in a pinch, I ran out to my local Sears only to find they didn't have any. So, last resort was Autozone, and I had to purchase the dreaded "Made in Taiwan" variety. Well, being that I'm here typing this now, one can surmise that they worked well. Bonus: they only cost $30!!
Okay back to business...mount the compessors opposite of one another as shown. If you have an impact wrench, well, you're not just cooking, you're cooking with gas. Me on the other hand, had to do it the old fashioned way with my handy torque wrench. It's a whole lot of turning. Make sure you evenly tighten the compressors until the top strut mount plate is loose.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Compressspring.jpg">

Next step is to loosen the strut nut. This part is a little tricky as, once again, Audi requires a special tool (3353):

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/3353specialtool.jpg">

As much as I like buying special tools, I don't have the time to order one up. So, I had to improvise. The way to loosen the strut nut is to use a 6mm allen wrench to hold the strut "bolt" in place while using an 18mm spark plug socket to loosen the nut. The hex hole is shown here:

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/StrutBolt.jpg">


I was able to use an 18mm spark plug socket (because it has a hex head end), a pipe to hold the allen wrench in place, and an adjustable wrench.
If you have a bench vise, it would behoove you to use it to mount the strut assembly for easier removal of the nut. I sadly, do not have one, but was still able to remove it.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/LoosenStrutNut.jpg">


Next remove the upper spring plate, strut mount, and nut.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Strutmount.jpg">

Then pull out the boot:

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Strutcover.jpg">

Remove the old spring and decompress it:

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Compressorred.jpg">


Compress the new spring and place it in the orientation shown. The spring ends need to be against the stops on the upper and lower spring mounts (the Bentley highly emphasized this point).

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Springmounts.jpg">

Now put the washer back on:

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Washer.jpg">


<b>Note</b> When installing the upper spring plate and strut mount, take a close look at the dirt outline on the metal spring plate. You want to install it so the dirt outline lines up with the upper rubber spring mount (sorry, but I didn't think to take a picture of this). Once that is installed, put on a <b>new</b> strut nut.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/StrutNut.jpg">


Now the Bentley calls out for 37 ft. lbs. of torque on the nut, but without the special tool, one cannot use a torque wrench. I just held the allen wrench in place with my boot and really gave the nut a good tightening with my adjustable wrench. Here is the new spring installed along with the old one:

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/NewSpringinstalled.jpg">


Now just install the strut assembly back onto the shock tower. I found it useful to use some brake caliper grease to hold the nuts inside the socket.

Install the nut and bolt for the lower straight control arm, the sway bar nuts and bolts, and the lower strut mount nut and bolt (once again, I would refer to the <a href="http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/susp_whls_brake_steer/controlarmreplace.html">Control Arm Replacement Procedure</a> on Audipages).

Now you should be good to go:

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Completedrepair.jpg">

Zaphod A8

also do we know what the different collor dots mean? or does it not matter as long as both front match?

ricoblanco

I got it from Carson at Riverside Audi. The dots depend on your vehicle (model year, etc.). The part number is the same (4D0 411 105 DA), but I had to supply my VIN and Riverside selected the proper spring for me. It was only $147.70 for the spring and $0.67 for the strut nut with the AudiWorld discount. :-)

mkurak

Now I can decide whether this is something I want to tackle - many thanks. Incidentally, that was cool tool set up with the allen key inside the socket!

ricoblanco

I remember what you said about the cost/hassle factor affecting your decision to do it yourself. So the option is there for an inexpensive spring compressor. It's not a terrible job to do with the proper tools. It took me about three hours (it will be much faster the next time through) for the procedure, and the same amount of time tracking down another spring compressor and deciding on the 18mm spark plug socket as the option to remove/install the strut nut.

mAgnum8

Ricoblanco, very nice. Great job and thank you for the write-up and pics. Awesome.

mkurak

i.e., one does not need the hydraulic compressor? Don't forget to get your write-up on Paul W's A8/S8 FAQ Digest page!

tozoM8

If it snaps the spring will fly over 100 feet. They are unsafe. I would go to a local shop with all my parts and ask them to compress it. They will have a heavy duty wall mounted compressor.

mkurak

Hmmm - that was a concern - thank you sir.

ricoblanco

It was a last resort for me as I already had everything apart. But, as noted in the write-up, they're risky but worked in my case.