vicsvinyl

How is it done?

spitanddirt

It's done by putting the car up on a lift or four jacks high enough to get under the car via a creeper or on your back. The car must be level. The transmission pad has a 17 mm internal wrenching plug (Allen) that is removed and a tube, or hook tool is inserted. Fluid is pumped in until the fluid starts to drain out(there is a fluid level standpipe). Then the car is started on the jacks. The transmission is shifted through each of the gears with a 3-5 second stop at each gear. The car is idled until the transmission fluid temperature reaches 30C if I recall. Then more fluid is pumped into the transmission until it drains again. As that point the transmission will keep warming up and then the plug is installed. The plug must be installed before the transmission fluid reaches 45C, otherwise the servicing will have to be done again.

Just in case, I'm misunderstanding what you mean by transaxle, the front differential gear oil is only changed out by removing the plug on the right side and fluid is vacuumed out using a fluid extraction pump. Then new 75w-90 gear oil is pumped back into the level of the plug threads and plug is installed.

If you are talking about the Torsen differential attached to the back of the transmission, there is a fill plug facing upwards to the passenger side the car. Draining that fluid is easy as the drain plug is directly between the torque converters, HOWEVER, the fill plug in is a real difficult spot. Due to heat, and corrosion, the fill plug is NOT EASY to remove. DO NOT DRAIN THE CENTER DIFFERENTIAL UNTIL THE FILL PLUG IS REMOVED! You can thank me later. The fill plug requires a 10 or 8 mm hex socket if I recall. I had to use an electric heat gun to warm the housing and also use a small butane torch to get the housing warm enough to allow me to remove the plug. Do not over torque the fill plug! The center diff also takes 75w-90 oil

The rear differential is a standard drain and fill setup. Due to heat and corrosion, it may be need the same heating treatment on both the drain and fill plugs. Don't drain until the fill plug is removed. 75W-90 oil.

Hopefully that explains the whole process. I've done this a few times if you can't tell. 374,000 miles on my car to date.

vicsvinyl

Thanks for including the rear one. Had a mechanic that is going to change the seal put on lift and check the fluid level but couldn't reach it as we aren't ready to do seal at the same time. Told him we can wait.
Need to drive 200 miles both ways to an airport tomorrow. Too risky?

jfrahm

Couldn't reach what? Is one of the fluids low?
Audipages covers all three fluid fills for the 5HP24A in detail with pics. It's all pretty accessible, particularly with a lift.

vicsvinyl

[The QUOTE=jfrahm;25742342]Couldn't reach what? Is one of the fluids low?
Rear trans gearbox. Catalytic converter must be removed.
Yes low.

jfrahm

That's only if you have an S8 or a PFL and are changing the trans filter, and you don't get a mini-ratchet for your torx bit to get at the obstructed pan fasteners.
It sounds like you have a gear oil drip from the center diff but it'd help if you were more clear. The fill is accessible with the exhaust in place, I had a 2001 A8 with output shaft seal issues and got real damn familiar with it, unfortunately.

vicsvinyl

Talking about trans rear drive seal. Gear oil. I can unbolt the 4 bolt t35 flange but why any dimwitted engineer would
put a t35 in the center of the flange gear drive is beyond me.
I'm practicing on a 2nd trany outside of any car and standing tail up. Broke 2 t35 bits on other bolts not the one in question. I've seen t30/35/40 used in different instructions? I've twisted S2 steel.
What is the trick to get it out.

jfrahm

No idea. Audipages says it's a T40 so maybe that's part of your issue. That bolt never gave me any trouble.
Impact gun and an impact torx and take some time, hit it both ways a few times and then out.

vicsvinyl

Took it to an Audi vw mechanic. $ 190 nice job!
Takes 2 people to remove exhaust minimal!