audinutt

This is wrong, it is ambient specific but 25-35psi is to low if the compressor is not running.

TSHong

Like audinutt posted, if the compressor is not running, the pressure is going to be equalized and should be around 90 psi for most cars. If you are in extreme cold or hot weather, it can go up or down slightly.

Now if your compressor is running and the low side is 25-35 psi on a 134A system, that can be very normal. The high side should be somewhere north of 250 psi with compressor running.

Arbitris

The manual that came with the R134A states 25-35psi with the compressor running for 65degrees, I double checked my compressor. -It does engage- So I filled the system to 35psi from the low side with the compressor running.

My AC still blows warm. I believe the in dash flappers work because I can change it from warm to hot and back to warm from the dash controls.

Any suggestions on what to check next?
Isn't there a switch in the dash?

(Sorry for not searching, I'm in the middle of working 2 weeks straight without a day off and only have about 2 minutes available before I have to take off to go to work.)

silverd2

If the compressor is running and you have over 25 psi on the lower pressure AND the low pressure line gets cold (sweats?), the problem may be in a temp control flap or even with heater core pump/valve unit under the hood (worst case).

I don't pretend to know the full use of this but have a look at the link below. You actually have a full diagnostic built into the climate control head. Look over the info for readings on flaps and motors that control temp (airflow from AC evap, etc..). It's possible that a temp control flap is either not fully closing or one no even opening. I'm not familiar with all the specifics, so that's about all I can suggest.

Look this over >>>

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...ited&t=2798895

Arbitris

All I can really do in my current sleeptarded state is gawk and blink awkwardly. I think my car is smarter than I am at the moment.

F' ckin Germans

Thanks for the information. I'll check for vacuum leaks and try to get a code from the HVAC.

Arbitris

I did a quick check and I have at least 6 error messages in my hvac system. I didn't have time to write them down, but I will do that tomorrow if work gets slow (I should have a little down time early afternoon)

Also, on to the flapper that may be sticking in dash. Can you tell (or show) me where to find that? or what to look or listen for? (I do have a repetitive clicking from under the dash occasionally when turning on the hvac controls.



Off topic: I freaking love this car, I can't believe the level of engineering that went in to it (figuratively speaking, I totally believe this coming from Audi's flagship).
From a button that raises a sunshade to a button that lowers the rear headrests, wow. And the other night I couldn't figure out why the light coming in through the windshield onto my hands/steering wheel wasn't moving as I passed under street lights. Wait, that's a map light, and the map light DOESN'T SHINE IN YOUR EYES!!! it seems small, but this has always been a huge pet peeve of mine.
now it's 11pm, and I have to get up in a few hours to go back to work, to be continued......

silverd2

Most systems I have knowledge of comes from personal experience with past repairs and diagnostics I've been forced to do. I've never had a problem with temp control in my D2, so don't know all the particulars...just general knowledge and theory. Looking at the CC "secret codes" more closely, I don't see a specific code to look at...the only temp control codes seem to deal with individual sensors at different locations that can tell you where cold or hot air is getting to, but the only temp flap it refers to is the top center vent's individual temp control (cool feature that it is).

Remember, this list of codes did NOT come from Audi, but were reverse engineered by a past AW member..it incomplete and much of it is guessing. Audi will NOT release a guide to the codes for some reason...I know people have tried to get this info at all levels...and no go. Only Ross Tech VagCom (VCDS) has all the tests, diagnostics and info needed to do a thorough search of the climate control system, to nail down the particulars. Also, even with VSDS, you really need a Bentley Manual for all the procedures needed to get to an deal with all the systems involved with the CC (and the rest of the car, if you're gonna do most or all of your own repairs).

The clicking you hear usually indicates a sticking flap (usually cleanable, repairable when you get to it), but also should indicate that the control signal and motor is still working.

I always use the Bentley as a guide.

I also have just the free download of VSDS-Lite, which covers a lot, but not enough on all the systems in the CC. I highly recommend it though for how cheap (partly free) it is...it will read almost anything in most of the car's modules...all engine, trans and other trouble codes. I recoded my trans with it and recoded my central locking to open/close windows with the remote key alone (anywhere within range). But only the paid (licensed) versions of VCDS will do (and provide full explanations) all diagnostics, tests, etc...then Bentley provides repair info.

The forums and members are full of good info, but not everything you need in all cases.

http://www.ross-tech.com/

Free download VCDS-Lite >>>

http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.html

OBD2 Cable Needed >>>

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-OBDII-KK..._Tools&vxp=mtr

Cheapest Bentley source >>>

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/D2_B...Manual/ES6279/

Arbitris

So my weekend is here for me to work on the car. And my wife drove it into a puddle and sucked water into and siezed the engine.

I'm pissed, and going to sell or part the car, I'm not going to deal with buying another engine right now.

silverd2

Probably easier (and cheaper) to buy a new wife

http://www.russianbrides.com/pages/s...fqsgnqod0reavw

Arbitris

LMAO!
Thanks for the smile.