Audi D2 A8/A8L/S8 (1997-2003) FAQ Digest
#101
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Codes for a European S8 TCU - enabling sport mode
<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a8/msgs/180327.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/a8/msgs/180327.phtml</a</li></ul>
#102
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
"S"quirt Mode Enabled on an 01 S8
<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a8/msgs/147177.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/a8/msgs/147177.phtml</a</li></ul>
#104
AudiWorld Super User
blower motor tips - see Audipages.com for actual procedure
- the screws in the back of blower box are probably going to be rusty. Either replace them OR reinstall in the front. Use the good ones in the back locations.
- Just in case your issue is not the blower, I would test the new one before you install it. Once you remove the screen cage on top, you'll see the electrical connector on the driver side. Reach in and connect it to the new blower. You'll either have to hold it and have someone else turn on the fan inside the car or rig up some clamps so it's not touching anything. If the new one works, keep going....
- The one I replaced was completely dead and didn't show any codes. That's why I decided to test it first.
- The back screws are tricky. Take your time, you don't want to strip these. Craftsman makes a knurled thumbwheel screwdriver attachment which works great.
Bob
- Just in case your issue is not the blower, I would test the new one before you install it. Once you remove the screen cage on top, you'll see the electrical connector on the driver side. Reach in and connect it to the new blower. You'll either have to hold it and have someone else turn on the fan inside the car or rig up some clamps so it's not touching anything. If the new one works, keep going....
- The one I replaced was completely dead and didn't show any codes. That's why I decided to test it first.
- The back screws are tricky. Take your time, you don't want to strip these. Craftsman makes a knurled thumbwheel screwdriver attachment which works great.
Bob
#105
AudiWorld Super User
"belt squeal" on start-up or with engine running - check electric fan
The electric fan has an amazing ability to make a squealing belt noise when it starts to go bad.
If you're getting this type of a noise, I would check here first before you assume it's timing, drive belt or tensioner issues.
When they first start to fail, the noise should stop when the HVAC is turned off. The electric fan ALWAYS comes on when the car is first started regardless of the outside temp.
Replacement is pretty straightforward. The new fan comes with the wiring harness and new plug. The connector is underneath, in front of the driver side wheel. Just a bunch of wire ties between there and the top of the fan.
If it's really bad, and not too hot outside, you can unplug the fan or just cut the wire near the top until you get a replacment.
See audipages.com timing belt procedure on how to remove the fan.
Bob
If you're getting this type of a noise, I would check here first before you assume it's timing, drive belt or tensioner issues.
When they first start to fail, the noise should stop when the HVAC is turned off. The electric fan ALWAYS comes on when the car is first started regardless of the outside temp.
Replacement is pretty straightforward. The new fan comes with the wiring harness and new plug. The connector is underneath, in front of the driver side wheel. Just a bunch of wire ties between there and the top of the fan.
If it's really bad, and not too hot outside, you can unplug the fan or just cut the wire near the top until you get a replacment.
See audipages.com timing belt procedure on how to remove the fan.
Bob
#106
AudiWorld Super User
40V timing belt notes
<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a8/msgs/130804.phtml">40V timing belt notes (reference audipages.com 32v write-up as well)</a></li></ul>
#108
AudiWorld Super User
HVAC motors - "clicking sound"
If you have vag-com, it will tell you which of the motors is making the clicking sound. The Bentley will tell you the location.
They're pretty easy to find, they all have bright yellow connectors. If you remove the side panels, (see audipages.com, unclogging A/C drains for pic on how to remove) you can easily see 4 of the 5 or 6 that are behind the dash. There is one on the pass side up REALLY high. The procedure to change that one is remove the dash!
If you don't have vag-com and the noise is constant, you can tell which one is bad by putting your hand on it. They're just little DC motors. There is also an adaption procedure in vag-com which basically runs all of them fully open to fully closed. Sometimes this will solve the problem for a short time.
You can also just unplug the ones that are making the noise (I did for the one mentioned above) as long as the airflow seems ok. Some are more critical than others.
There are just 2 screws that hold them in place. Depending on which one, you might have to use an offset screwdriver and possibly remove something. Once they're out, you can check and see if it's the flap (in the vent) that's actually jammed by moving it by hand. Once you go to school on one, they're all the same in different locations.
Finally, once you have the motor in your hand, the ones that are really shot will have a shaft that just spins freely. You can test them on the bench with a 12v source (a 9v battery will probably work too) and watch/listen to how smoothly it rotates. You might also need to do this if the shaft winds up in the wrong position for re-installation. Just a little trial and error with a power source until you move it into the right position. They're keyed and only go in one way.
They're pretty easy to find, they all have bright yellow connectors. If you remove the side panels, (see audipages.com, unclogging A/C drains for pic on how to remove) you can easily see 4 of the 5 or 6 that are behind the dash. There is one on the pass side up REALLY high. The procedure to change that one is remove the dash!
If you don't have vag-com and the noise is constant, you can tell which one is bad by putting your hand on it. They're just little DC motors. There is also an adaption procedure in vag-com which basically runs all of them fully open to fully closed. Sometimes this will solve the problem for a short time.
You can also just unplug the ones that are making the noise (I did for the one mentioned above) as long as the airflow seems ok. Some are more critical than others.
There are just 2 screws that hold them in place. Depending on which one, you might have to use an offset screwdriver and possibly remove something. Once they're out, you can check and see if it's the flap (in the vent) that's actually jammed by moving it by hand. Once you go to school on one, they're all the same in different locations.
Finally, once you have the motor in your hand, the ones that are really shot will have a shaft that just spins freely. You can test them on the bench with a 12v source (a 9v battery will probably work too) and watch/listen to how smoothly it rotates. You might also need to do this if the shaft winds up in the wrong position for re-installation. Just a little trial and error with a power source until you move it into the right position. They're keyed and only go in one way.
#109
RS4 calipers/RS6 disks
For those that haven't already seen this, I've upgraded the front brakes on my D2A8 with some rather lovely brakes <ul><li><a href="http://www.tyresmoke.net/forum/audi-a8-s8/81322-can-you-guess-what-ive-had-done.html">Check it out</a></li></ul>
#110
A8_Tony's Custom Zorst
Here's a link to the 'build' post of my custom exhaust. I'll get a new soundclip up asap <ul><li><a href="http://www.tyresmoke.net/forum/audi-a8-s8/28139-new-zorst.html">Over here</a></li></ul>