Bad caliper -good source for a new one or rebuild kit (LF on 2000) - thanks
#4
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anyone else have this happen before ? Seems a little odd that it would be like this on both sides ?
Bob
Bob
#6
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The inside pad always wear down faster than the outer....because it has the piston on it I believe.
Why do you need a new caliper?
Why do you need a new caliper?
#7
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the piston is sticking. I had to do mine a few months ago. VERY EASY TO DO. go to the audipages link and follow the directions. the rebuild kit is about $9.50 with enough o-rings/boots to rebuild 2.
You figure if you have to replace it you have to pull it off the car and you will need the same tools to push the piston in. why not just rebuild it for only a fraction of the cost and about the same amount of time (ok maybe 1/2 hour more). Mine works good a new again for only $9.50, worth a try.. If that is the true problem.
You figure if you have to replace it you have to pull it off the car and you will need the same tools to push the piston in. why not just rebuild it for only a fraction of the cost and about the same amount of time (ok maybe 1/2 hour more). Mine works good a new again for only $9.50, worth a try.. If that is the true problem.
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#8
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Important! There is a split in the win # for the 2000 so make sure you check it before you buy.<ul><li><a href="http://catalog.worldpac.com/eas/catalog_cs/quote.jsp?partner=eas&year=2000&product=N1 040-100005&application=000492119">Make sure you get the corrcet one for your car!</a></li></ul>
#9
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On the drivers side, the inside pad is down to the metal, outside pad has (I just checked with the new one) 50% left. On the pass side, not
as bad but really uneven wear on the inside. If you look at it from the top (or bottom) it tapers down to the metal on one side. Gotta be calipers right ?
as bad but really uneven wear on the inside. If you look at it from the top (or bottom) it tapers down to the metal on one side. Gotta be calipers right ?
#10
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When you do a brake job, you want to remove the guide pins from the calipers (number 3) and lubricate them with caliper grease....you know...you can get a little ketchup pack of it at Pep Boys from Locktite:
<img src="http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/susp_whls_brake_steer/frbrakes2.GIF">
<img src="http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/susp_whls_brake_steer/frontbrakes5.JPG">
And from the audipages.com procedure (which thanks to Randy has this step):
"Prior to installing the new rotor, take some grease or caliper lube and put it on the hub where the rotor comes in contact. This will prevent the rotor from rusting to the hub assembly.
Install new rotor.
Install carrier bracket, torque to 92 lb-ft.
Lube the guide pins (Figure 1, Item 3) with brake caliper lube. The OEM Audi brake pads are marked with direction of rotation, ensure the correct pad is used for each side! Insert the inner pad into the caliper assembly."
And my son.....Evan!
<img src="http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/susp_whls_brake_steer/evanbrake2.JPG">
<img src="http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/susp_whls_brake_steer/frbrakes2.GIF">
<img src="http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/susp_whls_brake_steer/frontbrakes5.JPG">
And from the audipages.com procedure (which thanks to Randy has this step):
"Prior to installing the new rotor, take some grease or caliper lube and put it on the hub where the rotor comes in contact. This will prevent the rotor from rusting to the hub assembly.
Install new rotor.
Install carrier bracket, torque to 92 lb-ft.
Lube the guide pins (Figure 1, Item 3) with brake caliper lube. The OEM Audi brake pads are marked with direction of rotation, ensure the correct pad is used for each side! Insert the inner pad into the caliper assembly."
And my son.....Evan!
<img src="http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/susp_whls_brake_steer/evanbrake2.JPG">