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Brake Job Follow-up

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Old 04-06-2004, 07:06 PM
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Default Brake Job Follow-up

Have the car up on stands. All brakes are off - but am having problems with the driver's side rear rotor. This is not a "floater". Do I need to remove the wheel bearing nut to get the rotor off? If so, how do you keep the rotor from spinning as you try and turn the beast? TIA!
Old 04-06-2004, 07:10 PM
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Default Just hit the top and bottom of it with a piece of wood and hammer

On the area where the brake pads rub.....it's rusted on.

When you put the new one on, put a small film of grease where it comes in contact with the hub.....do the same with the back of the wheel.

No need to take the wheel bearing nut off.
Old 04-06-2004, 07:11 PM
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Default You need a.....

a BIG A$$ HAMMER or MALLET!!!! It is a floater and should come off. You can try WD-40.
Old 04-06-2004, 07:15 PM
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Default When Randy and I changed mine last year had the same problem, Just had to beat on it for a while

before it broke free.
Old 04-06-2004, 07:16 PM
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Default In all likelyhood, the rotor is rusted solid to the hub.

You do <b>not</b> need to remove the wheels bearing nut.

I had the same problem the first time I removed my front rotors. Rap it hard with a metal hammer to break it loose.

Ever since then, every Spring and Fall when I switch Winter and Summer tires, I apply a thin coating of high temp anti-sieze to the hub. Haven't had a problem since.
Old 04-06-2004, 08:02 PM
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Default BFH to the rescue!!!

Thanks guys! The BFH suggestion worked. I thought it didn't seem right that this rotor would be installed any differently than the others. Now when the brake pads and rotors come on Wednesday I'll be ready to put the beast back together for the weekend road trip to Minneapolis.

Opinions on draining the brake fluid while I'm doing the entire brake job?

Thanks and a Happy Easter to all!
Old 04-06-2004, 08:17 PM
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Default Re: Brake Fluid

When was the last time the brakes were bled?

If it's been two years or more, now would be a good time. No need to drain or flush the entire system, just bleed each corner until you see fresh brake fluid. [The fresh fluid will be lighter in color than the "used" fluid sitting in the calipers.]

Just a reminder: Don't bleed the brakes until all four corners are completely back together. If you step on the brake pedal or use a pressure bleeder while you still have a brake caliper hanging loose, you'll push the piston right out of the caliper ... very bad.

And I guess I'm a slow typer. There were no responses to your original post when I started my reply.
Old 04-06-2004, 08:20 PM
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Default

How long did you guys work on your car at Grattan last year and what exactly did you do?
Old 04-07-2004, 02:57 AM
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Default A group effort ...

Doc had new pads and rotors for his car but had never done a brake job, so I offered to help with the work at the track on Friday, Instructor's Day.

As it turned out, the rotors weren't badly worn, so we didn't swap these out; and Paul was there also. If I recall, Paul started the job, Doc did most of the work with a little coaching, and I bled the brakes. It took us a couple of hours to get the work done, but we kept taking brake job breaks to watch the instructor's on track.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/42891/rear_brakes.jpg">

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/42891/randybleedingbrakes.jpg">
Old 04-07-2004, 04:11 AM
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Default Re: Brake Fluid

Thanks Randy. I'll Bleed the brakes-ONCE all calipers/pads are back on the car! Like I've said before-Gotta love this board and all the help it provides! Thanks all!


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