-OvO-

It looks like it isn't very hard to install the rotating portion of the sensor 180 degrees from where it ought to be. Am I right?

Trouble is, when I removed the bolt holding it on, that bit of stamped metal just fell off and so I can't tell which way it was on. Worse, I'm not sure if my CEL is because I had it on upside down or for some other reason, so unless the DTC goes away, I'll have to take it apart and put it back together at least once more, probably twice

Paul, I think the audipages procedure for timing belt R&R should suggest that before touching the central bolt, you should mark the topmost edge of the spinner with a Sharpie, so you can put it back on right-side up.

(yes, I see that it does suggest "noting the position" but that's not quite clear until afterwards. And noting isn't the same as marking.)

skiracer

It isn't totally obvious, but if you rotate the stamped metal piece around the face of the cam, you can feel when the tab engages. If it has been put in incorrectly the tab may be deformed, and you need to bend it back before re-installing it.

-OvO-

Apparently. The tab was not deformed and when I reinstalled it, it fit snugly and firmly. Guess I have to dig into the crank/cam synchronization - ie, tear the front end off the car again. Ugh.

skiracer

that the cams are not at TDC when the crank is? If not at TDC, is it one or both cams? If you haven't, I would- it could save you some time.

-OvO-

It's tricky getting the engine to TDC. I don't think I can get a socket on the crankshaft with the radiator on - I guess that's what that 2079 tool is for. Can't use the starter to do it without a helper.

And it's not a manual transmission, which would be easiest...

Landjet

Sorry if I missed something, but I'm just curious as my cams moved out of sync even though I am sure I had the cams tools secured. Rough running or just the cel light?

-OvO-

I was pretty sure I had the cam tools secured, thought I did everything right, but who knows.
Of course, I couldn't start the car *before* completing the TB install since I had the radiator off...

I've heard a rumor that sometimes the mark on the front pulley is not accurate, because the vibration damper is rubber on the inside? I dunno, just a guess. I didn't pull a spark plug and insert a dial guage to verify exact TDC

It doesn't run as smoothly as it should. It's not horrible, and if not for the CEL I would assume that it's because I knocked some carbon loose when I removed/replaced the intake manifold. It's just the tiniest bit rough at idle - like any *other* V8 - and when pulling up a hill sometimes I wonder if maybe it's stumbling but I can't decide. Which probably means it really is stumbling, barely.

Anybody know of a source for a degree wheel so I can verify that the valve timing is exactly to factory spec?

A8CT

You can run it for a minute or so w/o the radiator connected to make sure that it runs ok and that you're not getting a CEL. Doesn't do you any good now but might help the next guy.

Bob

ttuling

There are a few measurements in the service manual. Wondering if unplugging it might have broken a wire.

Tom

-OvO-

It has power and ground, and a voltmeter connected between #1 and #2 alternates between 1-something and 2-something volts.

The manual says that "the test light should blink". I decided against using a light bulb as a test light, as I didn't want to create a low-impedance path through the circuit, but 1.5v/2.5v/1.5v looks like blinking to me.