silverd2

I'm not terribly ETKA-literate yet...but I find the same number for the lower front arm, on all world markets for your year A8Q and the A4/S4:
4D0 407 151 P ...So, I dunno(?)

Example source: http://www.vorwerkauto.com/index.php...product_id=122

I photograph children for a living...and that is one cute little princess you got there. Her mom must be beautiful

P.S. If, for any reason, you ever part out that car, I want one of the motor mounts...so I can stick an ice pick in it, to see if it bleeds

Proph3t

Yeah that's the only part number I was able to find for my year and model...lets hope its just a random replacement that was fitted, and the hole hub isnt some different design requiring that exact arm...cos I cant find them anywhere. Some of the parts I saw had multiple OEM part numbers listed, so I'll check it over again. Interesting to know that 94-99 S4 Quattro front suspension fits in an 94-99 A8 Quattro though

Looking at your link, the 4D0407151P seems to fit almost every model for around that year...so I'd have to think it was right. Mine is apparently "armored" which you see specified on some part sites, so that could be the discrepancy, although on VAGCAT.com the part I have fitted isn't listed as the armored part either....grrrr.

Yeah, my daughter is very helpful at fetching tools already as well as being cute, hence the greasy hands. I just point and she retrieves, which is more than her mother does lol.

I'd hope I never have to part out the car, but if I ever have to replace those engine mounts, I'll stab em myself and let you know if it bleeds or not

pocketchange

With 4 PN's for the A8 forward subframe mount(s), would a vin # insure getting the correct piece.

My PS pump needs to be rebuilt first also before replacing the subframe bush.

Place here in town (Houston) does them, if anyone is looking for a vendor (on Pinemont).

GuestSa.Sa

if you are thinking the same.. my part number doesnt seem to match the others i see on the web and in part sales places..

I think the difference is in whether or not the factory was planning on a larger wheel/ or heavier frame (steel) being on your car.

start looking to make sure the value of either of these two groups your car falls into.(16 or (17 or 18)) these groups help identify your car and the control arms needed.

so in my case i have a 2001 A6 Base with a 4.2 and 17 inch wheels. I have the part number: 4D0407155 J from my front( straight) control arm.

Best regards,David

GuestSa.Sa

I have now had to clear two different corroded "Pinch bolts" from the top of the control frame. I have a system.. lol, that I hope can help others.

1 Completely remove the control frame (it has a better name i know)... its the easier way. in order to best remove the still connected top front control arm, partly remove the strut assembly from the car.

2. Soak-spray it best you can before you ever try to remove it ..
If your parts dont need changing and you are reading my post(I recommend walking out side right now..with a glove and you grease gun and caking that area now.. lol seriously i do.

OK, glad you did that, keep reading.

4. I saws all'd the pinch area.cut closer to the middle. Both the control arms on top, take a hit in order to get through the bolt( doesnt matter, replace them too)..

5. Then, "over tighten" nut and it pulls the 1 third bolt out the hole.

6. saws all the other pinch area( closer to the center)

7. apply similar extraction method to the one third bolt end. this one can be different between "shock striking" and heating the outer shell that is holding the bolt, you should be able to wrench the locked "one third" bolt loose. Then pliers and patience ect.

8. ** Now you are left with the middle. get a good punch and "center punch" yourself a pilot dril hole. hit it two three times.

9. Center drill the "stud" that is left in the middle of the pinch. with a carbide drill bit, keeping it cool with "PB blaster" every thirty second or so.. DONT OVER SPEED your drill bit.. you will ruin it with to much heat.. be patient this is a sucky long part of the task. MAKE ysure you are drilling straight (as best you can). (if you can NOT drill straight you have to stop when you touch the center wall in the middle of the bolt, OIL heavily and FLAT punch it out.)

10. Finish drilling entirely through the middle stud.

11 Start dilling with a med size drill bit and continue the same pattern.

NOTE: If you are like me and you suck at drilling straight.. about the time you are two thirds of the way out the other end... you will start touching the side wall... STOP...!!! now its time to hammer and punch it out. Keep remains in your un organized tool box. you are a partial winner.

EXPERT note: if you are a cut above the rest and you came cleanly out the other end with medium size bit.. start the third and final BIT. Still not as big as the hole. drill till YOU DRILL into the side wall ! OIL heavily and PUNCH out the remains..

Keep remains as a stupid paper weight on your desk.. YOu win the prize.

Cheers.. PS, when I put my NEW pinch bolt back in , I used plenty of "anti seize" during installation and "super coated" the whole flipping mess with grease, so in 50 K i can come back power wash the entire area and remove with EASE.

PS ALL of my re-installed bolts get the heavy grease coating in the entire control arm kit exchange.

Best regards,
David