jmmillerfzr

I have bad bushings on the inside lower front control arms. My question is do I just replace the bushing,or the whole arm? Also how do I tell if the lower rear arm inside bushing is bad? If I use a pry bar I get some movement, I don't know how much should be allowed. All other bushing show no cracks.

DynamicA8

Doing just the bushings saves a lot of money. Definitely adds more labor though. Without the proper tools it can be VERY time consuming. PM me with any questions on cost or time. Good luck.

jmmillerfzr

I ended up doing just the front lower inner bushings. The lower arms came off easily and the old bushings pressed out with a little cussing. I used a large vise. It did seem to stop some of the shimmy I had in the front end. I now need a good alignment as I tracks differently then before.

I would still like to know how much movement on the rear inner bushing is normal. With a pry bar I get some movement side to side and a little up and down, I would suspect about an 1/8 of an inch. Time to change those?

DynamicA8

1/8" of play in a bushing is excessive. To cure your vibration, that would be the place to start. If you plan on replacing them soon ( within 1000 miles) , wait to get an alignment until after both are replaced and vibration is gone.

Techically... an alignment is advised any time you potentially disturb it.

silverd2

I don't disagree with anything you've stated, but realistically, checking play with a pry bar (unless it's a pro who does this on a regular basis and has an experienced "feel" for it) is not a very exact measure of play.
One human and the exponential leverage that can be imparted by a pry bar, could move a brand new bushing that much, DEPENDING of course on the direction of play...you could "****" (diagonally) the inner metal sleeve on a new bushing that much with a screwdriver.

DynamicA8

Well said - 1/8" to your eyes might not be an actual 1/8". Also not knowing how much pressure you are exerting on the pry bar leads to more variables. (where you a prying, length of pry bar ,etc.)

Talking with an Audi master tech - It is very difficult to describe the testing procedure without hands on demonstration. Standard movement in a bushing is the acceptable - the term "play" is something different & often related to wear.

Visually inspect the bushing for cracks would be the easiest (NOT best) way to see if the bushing is worn.

pocketchange

How does it act under braking?

My reason for asking hinges around a little wear. In this case, tire wear (new tires too) is excellent but under light breaking I encounter a very slight steering wheel shimmy(?) and it's a VERY light shimmy and not all the time btw. This includes having a fresh brake job.

I've replaced both outer tie-rod ends (which were trashed) and it has made no change to the shimmy and neither did the brake work.

Nearest guess I have hinges around an accumulation of wear in the rack and minor wear with the front suspension. Does this translate to being concerned with the overall
condition of the front end.. no way, it drives like a dream (but I am saving up).

jmmillerfzr

Replacing the known bad bushings improved some of the shimmy I had. I don't know if replacing all would solve it completely. I did find I had some strange tire wear and most likely need to get the tires rebalanced. Overall it was an improvement and next summer I may just replace them all.

ECS Tuning-Audi

If you are getting steering wheel vibrations under braking it could be that you have uneven amounts of pad material built up on the face of the rotor.

These inconsistencies will cause vibration under braking. You can cure this by having the rotor turned and re-bedding your pads.

Just another idea if you still can't figure it out.

Good luck!

Jason

pocketchange

Thanks for the suggestion but it ain't the brakes!!

New "Cryo'd" EBC Slotted Rotors and Yellow Stuff Pads are in place and other than light harmonics, work great. (bedded the new set-up too!)

I'm comfortable with the way things are and living with the "slight" shimmy.