Coolant leak, not running.
#1
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Coolant leak, not running.
After doing all timing parts including tensioners it runs fine with ether, no locksmith will come to unlock fuel pump. I now have a tiny leak that was not there before.
And of course it's in the oil cooler area I think, cant see the origin, even have a drip under the alternator which might explain it being replaced. I did buy an aluminum bifkin or whatever it's called just incase.
Why now if not before? And how do I find the other o'rings needed to pull the oil cooler if need be?
And of course it's in the oil cooler area I think, cant see the origin, even have a drip under the alternator which might explain it being replaced. I did buy an aluminum bifkin or whatever it's called just incase.
Why now if not before? And how do I find the other o'rings needed to pull the oil cooler if need be?
Last edited by vicsvinyl; 12-01-2020 at 07:07 AM.
#2
AudiWorld Member
If I recall correctly, I used the oil cooler gasket kit the last time I did a Bufkin pipe.
077198070
They have become expensive - it might be worth checking to see if the O rings are a standard size.
If you need the fuel pump to run, you can remove the passenger's side cover in the trunk and supply 12v directly to it.
077198070
They have become expensive - it might be worth checking to see if the O rings are a standard size.
If you need the fuel pump to run, you can remove the passenger's side cover in the trunk and supply 12v directly to it.
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vicsvinyl (12-07-2020)
#3
I reused the expensive oil cooler gasket with a little schmear of maybe non-hardening sealer or something. Might have replaced the others from my stash, I do not recall.
Not sure what you mean about the fuel pump, trunk stuck closed or something? I have heard about people going in via the ski sack to unlatch it. Assuming you have tried turning and pushing in the key.
Not sure what you mean about the fuel pump, trunk stuck closed or something? I have heard about people going in via the ski sack to unlatch it. Assuming you have tried turning and pushing in the key.
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vicsvinyl (12-07-2020)
#5
AudiWorld Member
If your cooler pipe wasn't leaking before and now you have a coolant leak, do your best to identify where it's coming from- perhaps the radiator hose got nicked or thermostat housing didn't seat right? If it is the oil cooler, I did that earlier this summer with the Bufkin pipe. The figure 8 gasket is the tricky bugger to get. I ended up buying the kit, but the figure 8 gasket was wrong. So, like jfrahm, I re-used the old gasket and added a layer of silicon. No leaks since. That oil cooler isn't as bad as people say, but you have to have patience. It's like a puzzle getting it out and back in only one way. Good luck.
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vicsvinyl (12-07-2020)
#7
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
12 volt to pump
If I recall correctly, I used the oil cooler gasket kit the last time I did a Bufkin pipe.
077198070
They have become expensive - it might be worth checking to see if the O rings are a standard size.
If you need the fuel pump to run, you can remove the passenger's side cover in the trunk and supply 12v directly to it.
077198070
They have become expensive - it might be worth checking to see if the O rings are a standard size.
If you need the fuel pump to run, you can remove the passenger's side cover in the trunk and supply 12v directly to it.
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#8
He means the cover over the fuel pump on the trunk floor. The other way is to jumper or pop the cover off and force the fuel pump relay.
I'm not aware of a need for nor a way to enable the fuel pump in the ECU. If the ECU sees the engine turning it should run the fuel pump. There is also a priming event.
I'm not aware of a need for nor a way to enable the fuel pump in the ECU. If the ECU sees the engine turning it should run the fuel pump. There is also a priming event.
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vicsvinyl (12-15-2020)
#9
You keep stating this but this is completely wrong there is no ECU disable of the fuel pump I don't know who told you this information but it is 100% wrong.
The only thing that can prevent the car from running via the ECU is a immobilizer and it would run for a 1-2 seconds and then shut off..
there's no programming of the ECU to enable or disable the fuel pump, This is why your search for someone to do this has turned up with nothing.
The only thing that can prevent the car from running via the ECU is a immobilizer and it would run for a 1-2 seconds and then shut off..
there's no programming of the ECU to enable or disable the fuel pump, This is why your search for someone to do this has turned up with nothing.
Last edited by audinutt; 12-08-2020 at 09:35 AM.
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vicsvinyl (12-15-2020)
#10
AudiWorld Member
The fuel pump system in these cars is complex. The pump itself sits rather high in the tank, inside a plastic housing that holds fuel. It pumps the fuel down to venturies at the low points on either side of the tank, driving that fuel back up.
You should be able to hear the pump run with the ignition on, and you can crack a line at the intake to determine whether you have proper pressure.
If the pump housing has no fuel in it, the pump will run without pumping fuel or generating pressure. Adding about a gallon through the filler hose should fill the housing and a good pump will generate pressure again.
If you have pressure for a short while and then it falls off, you may have a cracked fuel line or a bad venturi, or hoses inside the tank installed improperly.
If you need to reliably test the fuel pump, you can supply 12v directly to it where the wiring harness attaches under the passenger's side cover in the front of the trunk.
You should be able to hear the pump run with the ignition on, and you can crack a line at the intake to determine whether you have proper pressure.
If the pump housing has no fuel in it, the pump will run without pumping fuel or generating pressure. Adding about a gallon through the filler hose should fill the housing and a good pump will generate pressure again.
If you have pressure for a short while and then it falls off, you may have a cracked fuel line or a bad venturi, or hoses inside the tank installed improperly.
If you need to reliably test the fuel pump, you can supply 12v directly to it where the wiring harness attaches under the passenger's side cover in the front of the trunk.
The following users liked this post:
vicsvinyl (12-15-2020)