Front pads need replaced (mileage 55K) Rotors?
01-14-2003, 05:11 PM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Front pads need replaced (mileage 55K) Rotors?
Hello All,
OK here is the scoop - My 1998 (build 9/97) A8 has 55k miles on it. The front brake pads are low - do I need to replace the rotors also? A <no name> shop said that they need to replace the rotors - I told them BULL****, noway at 55K! So needless to say, I still need my front brakes done. I would like to do them myself to learn and also save some money. (Truth - I don't trust mechanics) But anyways, is there a link that gives me the exact tools that I need and some short description on how to do it. Also do the rotors need to be replaced at 55K? One more thing, will the brake pad sesor reset itself?
Sincerely
Noel Sawyer
OK here is the scoop - My 1998 (build 9/97) A8 has 55k miles on it. The front brake pads are low - do I need to replace the rotors also? A <no name> shop said that they need to replace the rotors - I told them BULL****, noway at 55K! So needless to say, I still need my front brakes done. I would like to do them myself to learn and also save some money. (Truth - I don't trust mechanics) But anyways, is there a link that gives me the exact tools that I need and some short description on how to do it. Also do the rotors need to be replaced at 55K? One more thing, will the brake pad sesor reset itself?
Sincerely
Noel Sawyer
01-14-2003, 05:33 PM
#2
Re: Front pads need replaced (mileage 55K) Rotors?
>>But anyways, is there a link that gives me the exact tools that I need and some short description on how to do it.
I haven't done brakes on my A8 (yet), so don't know. It's likely very similar to my A6. I've done my A6 a couple of times, it's no big deal, but not the thing I would recommend you attempt alone without someone who's "been there before". You're not in Atlanta, are you?
>>Also do the rotors need to be replaced at 55K?
Depends, likely not, but possibly. I expect there are specs in the manual for thickness and runout - I'll post them here in this thread in a minute (I'm on my desktop, and my manual is on my laptop downstairs). I'd carry them to a NAPA machine shop for checking, not let a brake shop touch them. At minimum, the surfaces should be honed.
>>One more thing, will the brake pad sesor reset itself?
If it works like the A6 brakes, yes.
I haven't done brakes on my A8 (yet), so don't know. It's likely very similar to my A6. I've done my A6 a couple of times, it's no big deal, but not the thing I would recommend you attempt alone without someone who's "been there before". You're not in Atlanta, are you?
>>Also do the rotors need to be replaced at 55K?
Depends, likely not, but possibly. I expect there are specs in the manual for thickness and runout - I'll post them here in this thread in a minute (I'm on my desktop, and my manual is on my laptop downstairs). I'd carry them to a NAPA machine shop for checking, not let a brake shop touch them. At minimum, the surfaces should be honed.
>>One more thing, will the brake pad sesor reset itself?
If it works like the A6 brakes, yes.
01-14-2003, 05:40 PM
#3
Elder Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 11,968
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Changing front pads is not a tough job ...
.
whether the rotor needs to be replaced or not.
Sorry, but I've never been "intimate" with the front brakes on the A8, but the link shows how to do the job on an A4. The job on an A8 would be essentially the same.
I believe the rotors on your car are 312x25mm, diameter by thickness. Audi normally calls for replacing the rotor if the thickness has worn 2mm, down to 23 mm thick. Can someone with a Bentley confirm all this?
Your rotor may or may not need to be replaced, but you just need to check it with a micrometer. If not, you can skip steps 12 thru 17 in the procedure.<ul><li><a href="http://www.johnvey.com/content/a4brakes.php">A4 front pad and rotor replacement</a></li></ul>
whether the rotor needs to be replaced or not.
Sorry, but I've never been "intimate" with the front brakes on the A8, but the link shows how to do the job on an A4. The job on an A8 would be essentially the same.
I believe the rotors on your car are 312x25mm, diameter by thickness. Audi normally calls for replacing the rotor if the thickness has worn 2mm, down to 23 mm thick. Can someone with a Bentley confirm all this?
Your rotor may or may not need to be replaced, but you just need to check it with a micrometer. If not, you can skip steps 12 thru 17 in the procedure.<ul><li><a href="http://www.johnvey.com/content/a4brakes.php">A4 front pad and rotor replacement</a></li></ul>
01-14-2003, 06:06 PM
#5
AudiWorld Super User
That's pretty much exactly the A8 single piston brakes
I took a ton of pictures when I did my brakes, you will need a metric set of sockets, and a large torx drive with a 3/8" socket fitting, I think a torx-50.
Other than that (I didn't read the procedure, just looked at the pics), it appears to be exactly the same.
Should be easy even for somebody who has never done it before. Spend the $70 on the Bently if you don't have it.
Paul
Other than that (I didn't read the procedure, just looked at the pics), it appears to be exactly the same.
Should be easy even for somebody who has never done it before. Spend the $70 on the Bently if you don't have it.
Paul
01-14-2003, 09:57 PM
#7
AudiWorld Super User
My advice if you want quiet brakes that work good
Go with 2 new rotors and pads from the dealer.
Your rotors have 55K on them and the car is a 98, I would consider just replacing them.
If you get new rotors and pads, you won't have to go back in there for quite some time. If you don't replace the rotors and it doesn't work just right, you'll be right back in there.
Front rotors are about $125 each, pads are about $150, and they have the wear sensors built in.
If you don't use OEM stuff, the brake pads will most likely be a harder compound, which are defintely prone to squealing. The OEM stuff is just like Audi designed it.
I had Porterfield pads on my front because I wanted to stop the dust, they squealed for 30K miles, then I replaced the rotors and the pads about six weeks ago. The pedal is now returned to OEM feel, with the Porterfield pads it was very stiff because the compound was harder.
Just my .02.....
Email Clairparts.com for a quote on the parts.
pw
Your rotors have 55K on them and the car is a 98, I would consider just replacing them.
If you get new rotors and pads, you won't have to go back in there for quite some time. If you don't replace the rotors and it doesn't work just right, you'll be right back in there.
Front rotors are about $125 each, pads are about $150, and they have the wear sensors built in.
If you don't use OEM stuff, the brake pads will most likely be a harder compound, which are defintely prone to squealing. The OEM stuff is just like Audi designed it.
I had Porterfield pads on my front because I wanted to stop the dust, they squealed for 30K miles, then I replaced the rotors and the pads about six weeks ago. The pedal is now returned to OEM feel, with the Porterfield pads it was very stiff because the compound was harder.
Just my .02.....
Email Clairparts.com for a quote on the parts.
pw
Trending Topics
01-15-2003, 01:38 AM
#8
AudiWorld Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 818
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
EBC works fine
I have EBC rotors and Green Stuff pads on all four. Regular rotors, they don't (didn't?) have slotted or drilled.
They handle heat a lot better than OEM, and dust is considerably less. Brake fading on track is much less than with OEM, but for some strange reason, they seem to warp as easy as OEM.
Mine probably warped a bit while on track. Not much, but I can feel it. Then again, I drove twice as many rounds as with OEM rotors and pads, with lot less fading, so they got more heat as well.
No squealing at all.
They handle heat a lot better than OEM, and dust is considerably less. Brake fading on track is much less than with OEM, but for some strange reason, they seem to warp as easy as OEM.
Mine probably warped a bit while on track. Not much, but I can feel it. Then again, I drove twice as many rounds as with OEM rotors and pads, with lot less fading, so they got more heat as well.
No squealing at all.
01-15-2003, 01:49 AM
#9
AudiWorld Super User
Here's a little present for you
I don't know if you have any idea how many pictures I have on my computer waiting for time to write a procedure (or in this case, insomneia).
Enjoy!
BTW, if anybody sees anything wrong or would like to edit any procedure on audipages, please email me with your comments so I can correct/update them! Thanks!<ul><li><a href="http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/susp_whls_brake_steer/frontbrakes.html">Repair procedure for front brakes</a></li></ul>
Enjoy!
BTW, if anybody sees anything wrong or would like to edit any procedure on audipages, please email me with your comments so I can correct/update them! Thanks!<ul><li><a href="http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/susp_whls_brake_steer/frontbrakes.html">Repair procedure for front brakes</a></li></ul>
01-15-2003, 03:31 AM
#10
Member
Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yep...
They are so similar that the A8 rotor will fit the A4 with a longer caliper bracket and the pad numbers are the same. The rotor itself has stamped into the casting the minimum thickness. It is 23mm.
SawyerA8 - be sure you have the rotors surfaced in a crosshatch pattern and dont just slap a set of pads on. Failure to do this us one of the 2 major causes of squealing brakes - the other being lack of a backing pad or disc-brake anti-squeal compound between the pads and caliper. Another thing to look at is the condition of the floating caliper bolts. If they are pitted, replace them. Rusty or pitted bolts will cause the fixed pad side of the caliper (outside pad)to hang against the rotor and produce heat, wear and possible warpage.
SawyerA8 - be sure you have the rotors surfaced in a crosshatch pattern and dont just slap a set of pads on. Failure to do this us one of the 2 major causes of squealing brakes - the other being lack of a backing pad or disc-brake anti-squeal compound between the pads and caliper. Another thing to look at is the condition of the floating caliper bolts. If they are pitted, replace them. Rusty or pitted bolts will cause the fixed pad side of the caliper (outside pad)to hang against the rotor and produce heat, wear and possible warpage.