gamma500

Thanks to PaulW's/Clint's instructions, all went well with repairing the headrest up/down action...fixed the lumbar fore/aft while there. Lumbar up/down I didn't worry about since it works on the other seat and I can't figure out whose anatomy needs the lumbar support in his/her's thoracic area. Little things that Audi/BMW do kill me...the headrest motor has 8mm bolts mounting it from underneath where a screw could be accessed via a screwdriver easily besides a socket or wrench. The other upper side where the lumbar fore/aft motor is, has 2 Phillips screws instead, accessed from the top where it's a bitch to get a screwdriver . A bolt here would have been much easier. I swapped out the screws for bolts should I ever need to remove again. If you loosen the bolts/screws almost out but still holding by a couple threads, the motor wull drop enough so the cable can be removed, a 2-3mm matchstick slug inserted in the cable square hole (I fixed the wooden piece on a pin so I could insert it more easily since your view of the hole is less with this technique). This made it a bit easier to tighten up things without having to stuff my fingers holding the hardware in that tight rear spot to start bolt/screw, taking the chance of dropping the bugger into the dark recesses of the open seat back or crossthread it.

Monday, hopefully, the new defroster switch arrives. It is much easier to remove the radio with the DIN tools to pop out the old switch( a guy on eBay sells them for $9.95+ free shipping versus ProFit's $6.95 + !!$12.95 shipping) than pulling out the center HVAC vents, I believe. The chance of the pick slipping on the plastic vent and breaking something is there, particularly since you have to yank like a Mother to get the thing to move.

BTW, back to the headrest/seat job, may I suggest a little squirt of silicone spray on the bottom leather/rubber wedge insert area to lessen the amount of force needed to initially unseat the seam. This will lessen the chance of breaking the thread holding the leather to the rubber strip at this area. Mine broke on one side, leaving about 3/4" of leather loose, necessitating a bit of sewing with a heavy duty needle, pliers to hold, and polyester thread.

Cheers,

Craig

JimR

I may have to tackle that on the passenger side some day. It's in a good position, though, so don't feel a real burning need to fix.

gamma500

Thanks Jim...you'll be glad to know I bagged the idea of Kumho STX tires and splurged on the Michelin A/S's per your recommendation when we were programming my ECU. Not mounted yet but looking forward to their improved performance over the stock Goodyear LS's which I have cranked up to 38 psi so I don't have to listen to them scream on tight 40 mph curves. After the rt. front ABS sensor replacement, "only" the timing belt replacement job should remain, assuming the Audi Gods are kind.

Cheers,

Craig

JimR

For both Audis!

This is turning into a serious wrenching Fall/Winter.

I think you'll love the PS A/Ss. Hit the brakes hard in the rain, first chance you get. Make sure no one is behind you. Give us a report.

PaulW

If so, you should first pull the ABS sensor (very easy to do, just jack up, remove wheel, remove sensor by hand) and clean it.

EscapA8 had the same problem and last weekend we cleaned all sensors, he had paid an independent a bunch of money to replace one sensor and it didn't solve the problem.

Problem is now solved, didn't cost a penny.

If the ABS comes on when coming to a stop (less than 5 MPH) that's probably your problem. Only a very small amount of foreign material was on there.

pw