How long and what do I have to do to install the upper lateral links in the front?
04-16-2005, 05:24 PM
#1
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
How long and what do I have to do to install the upper lateral links in the front?
I recall someone saying that the whole spring/shock assembly had to be dropped with the upper arm mounts with it. I took a look and I saw that it was tight. I am wondering if anyone had any tips. thanks
04-16-2005, 07:06 PM
#3
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Yes, 8 and 10. It looks as if I can do it without dropping part 16?
Wait a minute...can I access that nut from the engine bay where the strut mounts are? I'm gonna go and look! If not, its looks as if its a simple install.
04-17-2005, 04:59 AM
#6
AudiWorld Super User
It won't work... you have to drop the subframe and remove it with the links attached.
You won't be able to get the bolts out of the links in place (I tried). Damn.. I have to get this control arm procedure written. Easiest way to do it:
1) drop the swaybar
2) remove the back bolt on the lower striaght arm
3) remove the strut assembly
4) remove the subframe bolts (14mm ?)
5) now the whole subframe will come out with the
"links" (Audi speak, we call them control arms) attached.
6) Swap the links and reverse. Two things when you make the change. The circlip is not required on short arm but it helps hold the link in place when you put it back in. Duplicate the "angle" at which this arm is mounted. There's a measurement you can take that's in the Bently. You don't want to mount it at the wrong angle or it will stress the bushing. Reverse and you're done. I have plenty of pics if you need them and some are on my picture poster.
Bob
1) drop the swaybar
2) remove the back bolt on the lower striaght arm
3) remove the strut assembly
4) remove the subframe bolts (14mm ?)
5) now the whole subframe will come out with the
"links" (Audi speak, we call them control arms) attached.
6) Swap the links and reverse. Two things when you make the change. The circlip is not required on short arm but it helps hold the link in place when you put it back in. Duplicate the "angle" at which this arm is mounted. There's a measurement you can take that's in the Bently. You don't want to mount it at the wrong angle or it will stress the bushing. Reverse and you're done. I have plenty of pics if you need them and some are on my picture poster.
Bob
04-17-2005, 05:05 AM
#7
AudiWorld Super User
Take a look at "subframe2.jpg" and you'll see it on the ground. The long arm on the right, cannot
be removed from the subframe on the car because it doesn't have enough clearance. It is possible to remove the short arm on the car but it's really tight.
Bob
Bob
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04-17-2005, 06:09 AM
#8
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10 without removal of subframe, yep
You can change the straight upper arm (#10) w/o removing the subframe or strut, just drop the subframe an inch in place and loosen the plastic fender liner. You have to pound the #10 bushing bolt down to pop off the circlip. Use a brass drift. I just did this one arm. (2000) My long lateral bolt in the knuckle came out ok, apparently some are frozen, I was wondering if backing the nut off one turn and driving over a few bumps might not help it move. I use "Break Free CLP" on stuck parts, an all-around great product for penetration, lube and anitcorro.
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