Is it normal to have to put new brake pads with a hammer?
07-06-2008, 06:52 PM
#1
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Is it normal to have to put new brake pads with a hammer?
Hi,
I'm replacing my brakes pads (S8 Brembos) with new ones. I had such a hard time just to get the old pads out, i had to fiddle with screwdrivers, pliers, hammer and what else to get them out. Now the new ones are even a bit larger so they don't go in at all, I had to file down a little bit on each of the sides to just get it to enter the caliper, but then I had to use my hammer to get it in all the way. Is that normal? I'm thinking perhaps since the original ones were as difficult to get out, but it still doesn't make me confident...
Also, can anybody confirm whether it is normal to get uneven wear on the pads, i mean each of the pads are not equally used up at the top and the bottom, *and* the inner and outer pads are definitely not used up equally:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/68260/dsc00325.jpg">
Any comments?
Thanks for any advices!
BTW, i'm using Mintex red box for these new pads.
I'm replacing my brakes pads (S8 Brembos) with new ones. I had such a hard time just to get the old pads out, i had to fiddle with screwdrivers, pliers, hammer and what else to get them out. Now the new ones are even a bit larger so they don't go in at all, I had to file down a little bit on each of the sides to just get it to enter the caliper, but then I had to use my hammer to get it in all the way. Is that normal? I'm thinking perhaps since the original ones were as difficult to get out, but it still doesn't make me confident...
Also, can anybody confirm whether it is normal to get uneven wear on the pads, i mean each of the pads are not equally used up at the top and the bottom, *and* the inner and outer pads are definitely not used up equally:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/68260/dsc00325.jpg">
Any comments?
Thanks for any advices!
BTW, i'm using Mintex red box for these new pads.
07-06-2008, 07:15 PM
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Are you sure the pucks retreated back fully?
I'm looking to do this myself soon, but will use new rotors and probably rebuild the calipers myself. Hope I have no problems. If you had to pound them in, they are tight against the rotors, correct? What happened when you tried to move?
07-06-2008, 08:12 PM
#3
You need to carefully pry the old pads away from the rotor with constant pressure.....
to push the pistons back into the caliper. It is best to open the brake fluid reservoir and remove some fluid (I use a turkey baster) before doing this. If you do this properly, the new pads will drop right in- no hammering or force of any kind.
07-06-2008, 10:49 PM
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Have you taken the lid off the master cylinder?-this will release pressure
and allow the fluid displacement required to allow the caliper to retract fully.,
Beware and put a clean rag around the open master cylinder to catch overflow if it occurs.
Beware and put a clean rag around the open master cylinder to catch overflow if it occurs.
07-07-2008, 02:42 AM
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Old pads can sometimes be a real bear to pry out, but ...
After pushing the pistons back into the caliper, the new pads should just drop in with little or no resistance. You may need to file a sharp edge or two off the new pads, but that's it.
Did you attempt to clean any brake dust/rust out of the caliper before inserting the new pads? I'm worried that the pads will not move freely and fail to release after applying the brakes, which would result in accelerated pad wear.
The taper wear visible on your outboard pad shouldn't occur, but it isn't really that unusual either. However, the heavily worn outboard pad and lightly word inboard pad is unusual. It indicates the possibility that the outboard isn't releasing after applying the brakes. See the previous paragraph.
Did you attempt to clean any brake dust/rust out of the caliper before inserting the new pads? I'm worried that the pads will not move freely and fail to release after applying the brakes, which would result in accelerated pad wear.
The taper wear visible on your outboard pad shouldn't occur, but it isn't really that unusual either. However, the heavily worn outboard pad and lightly word inboard pad is unusual. It indicates the possibility that the outboard isn't releasing after applying the brakes. See the previous paragraph.
07-07-2008, 05:23 AM
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I have no problem getting the pistons to retreat in the caliper, it is the pads that can't move
freely in and out, I can jiggle them sideways but not easily in and out of the caliper.
So I will file them even more so that they go in more easily, but now i have one in with a hammer, it's going to be another pain to take it out! :-/
Thanks for the advices!
Martin
So I will file them even more so that they go in more easily, but now i have one in with a hammer, it's going to be another pain to take it out! :-/
Thanks for the advices!
Martin
07-07-2008, 05:25 AM
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i did one side and the car moved ok, but as ryoung said, i fear accelerated pad wear if the pads
don't move sideways along with the pistons.
Had I removed the calipers entirely, i would not have had such a hard time getting the pads out, but i could not even loosen the calipers' bolts, even if I tried as hard as i could!!
Had I removed the calipers entirely, i would not have had such a hard time getting the pads out, but i could not even loosen the calipers' bolts, even if I tried as hard as i could!!
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07-07-2008, 03:57 PM
#8
Brakes will be my ever enemy!
With too many rigs in the yard, and winter salt and snow, It seems that I am bound to service some wheel brakes every F-----n month or so. I try to do the work in summer, so perhaps the requirement just adds up.
To point,
Due to corrosion, (RUST) the steel pad backing plate rusts, and the brake caliper pad "brackets" or holders rust as well. When ferrous metal rusts, it swells! Get's bigger, and binds up the things that are supposed to move.
When one pad binds tight, the other pad is called on to do the work that involves pressing against a moving rotor. That explains the uneven pad wear. The thicker pad is bound up tight on the caliper. If you can't get the pad out, it is likely not moving sideways to clamp the rotor either.
What to do? Dissassemble the claiper unit and take the mountings to the tool bench. File away the offending rusted material until you reach fresh metal. Wire brushing will not likely be enough. Be sure to clean up ALL the surfaces that touch the pad. (Rust BREEDS MORE RUST!) Don't go overboard on the rusted material removal though, you don't want a great sloppy mess. Test fit the pads while the holders are still on the bench. I have mine in the vise while cleaning them up.
This clean up filing operation may be a royal PIA with four piston calipers, but do what must be done! You will thank yourself later.
Now, when reassembling the units, carefully coat all the sliding surfaces with the moly,graphite, special magic lube that should have come with the new pads. Or purchase same magic brake lubricant from you FNAPS. Keep this stuff OFF the rotors, but cover all the mounting contact areas on the holders and the pads. I smear the caliper piston contact areas as well.
I use Sil-glide brake part lubricant liberally on any and all rubber parts as well. Inside and out. The piston boots like the attention. A hook scribe allows the boots to be lifted enough to get some lube under the rubber boot where it meets the piston. try to blow out any rusty grit from the boot before slathering on the sil-glide.
Pressing the pistons back with a small clamp is required to allow room for the new pads. Take a look in the brake fluid resevior to make sure your not overflowing the fill cap while doing this. Reassembly is a great time to crack the bleeders and expell some old fluid. (About the same amount as pushing the pistons back makes sense!) The fluid in the pistons is usually the worst, and it is good to get it out. I ususally put some anti-sieze around the bleeder threads while turning the screw in and out a few turns. Those things can really jamb in there.
Well, I could write a book on the hateful aspects of brake service. That would be a hateful read to be sure. Sometimes, Loaded calipers, and new rotors at any sign of trouble seems a great way to go. Time or money,----you decide.
CalG
To point,
Due to corrosion, (RUST) the steel pad backing plate rusts, and the brake caliper pad "brackets" or holders rust as well. When ferrous metal rusts, it swells! Get's bigger, and binds up the things that are supposed to move.
When one pad binds tight, the other pad is called on to do the work that involves pressing against a moving rotor. That explains the uneven pad wear. The thicker pad is bound up tight on the caliper. If you can't get the pad out, it is likely not moving sideways to clamp the rotor either.
What to do? Dissassemble the claiper unit and take the mountings to the tool bench. File away the offending rusted material until you reach fresh metal. Wire brushing will not likely be enough. Be sure to clean up ALL the surfaces that touch the pad. (Rust BREEDS MORE RUST!) Don't go overboard on the rusted material removal though, you don't want a great sloppy mess. Test fit the pads while the holders are still on the bench. I have mine in the vise while cleaning them up.
This clean up filing operation may be a royal PIA with four piston calipers, but do what must be done! You will thank yourself later.
Now, when reassembling the units, carefully coat all the sliding surfaces with the moly,graphite, special magic lube that should have come with the new pads. Or purchase same magic brake lubricant from you FNAPS. Keep this stuff OFF the rotors, but cover all the mounting contact areas on the holders and the pads. I smear the caliper piston contact areas as well.
I use Sil-glide brake part lubricant liberally on any and all rubber parts as well. Inside and out. The piston boots like the attention. A hook scribe allows the boots to be lifted enough to get some lube under the rubber boot where it meets the piston. try to blow out any rusty grit from the boot before slathering on the sil-glide.
Pressing the pistons back with a small clamp is required to allow room for the new pads. Take a look in the brake fluid resevior to make sure your not overflowing the fill cap while doing this. Reassembly is a great time to crack the bleeders and expell some old fluid. (About the same amount as pushing the pistons back makes sense!) The fluid in the pistons is usually the worst, and it is good to get it out. I ususally put some anti-sieze around the bleeder threads while turning the screw in and out a few turns. Those things can really jamb in there.
Well, I could write a book on the hateful aspects of brake service. That would be a hateful read to be sure. Sometimes, Loaded calipers, and new rotors at any sign of trouble seems a great way to go. Time or money,----you decide.
CalG
07-07-2008, 04:02 PM
#9
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Martin, something isn't right. Are you sure they're the right pads? When you're done putting them...
in, I grab the caliper and move it side to side as a test. It should "float" on the guide pins at least 1/2".
When you start the car, 4-6 pumps will set the pads against the rotor on both sides.
If there's no back and forth movement then something is off. The uneven wear could be the caliper pins not being greased from the last job. You might have calipers that are seizing up too.
Bob
When you start the car, 4-6 pumps will set the pads against the rotor on both sides.
If there's no back and forth movement then something is off. The uneven wear could be the caliper pins not being greased from the last job. You might have calipers that are seizing up too.
Bob
