OK, she died again....won't start. (LONG) HELP ME!!!!!
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So, as many of you know, i have been struggling with my 98 for some time now, with various little annoyances and what not, but this really is frustrating. here is my latest dilemma:
5:30am, 32F outside, dark as night. Driving down a road in farm country to get to my parents house...begin accelerating to maybe 3500rpm or so. all the sudden, CLUNK! Rpms drop to 0, PRND432 all light up, power steering gone! I pull over, shut her down. I open the hood and check various connectors to sensors, etc. unplug and replug, attempt to restart car....its cranks and cranks but wont start. Eventually, about 10min later, I attempted to start it and WOO HOO, its just started up (also only the P light on the gear indicator was lit up!) I drive it down the road about 2 miles or so and again at say 2000rpms, cruising down ANOTHER farm road, CLUNK, DEAD. THIS time, it just wont start. I left it all day and came back to it that evening...STILL DEAD. it will crank and crank but will not start up. i had AAA pick her up AGAIN and take her back to my indie. I just had my Crank Position Sensor replaced 2 weeks ago because I had a similar situation occur, but that time it WOULD start but then fall on its face when ANY gas was given... the wires on the CPS were frayed and exposed...so we replaced that and had it back on the road for like 2 weeks. Now this. I thought it might be a fuse to the fuel pump or something so i pulled the pass. footwell padding back to get the fuse box and it was all damp and stinky...I obviously have a drain that is clogged (I have to get on that one) but could this have affected the electrical components here to cause it to die? The fuses were fine btw. Based on my searching on this forum, im leaning towards a dead fuel pump. I recently had these codes come up but there was NO CEL present when the car died both times, nor were there ANY stored codes (yes i carry my OBDII reader in the glovebox!)
P1136 - Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Fuel,Bank1 System too Lean
P1138 - Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Fuel,Bank2 System too Lean
Also could this be a G28 sensor issue? I am STUMPED here. HELP A BROTHA OUT! i really want to keep this car cus its just gorgeous but if it keeps up like this i will have to sell her. dont make me do that. HELP
5:30am, 32F outside, dark as night. Driving down a road in farm country to get to my parents house...begin accelerating to maybe 3500rpm or so. all the sudden, CLUNK! Rpms drop to 0, PRND432 all light up, power steering gone! I pull over, shut her down. I open the hood and check various connectors to sensors, etc. unplug and replug, attempt to restart car....its cranks and cranks but wont start. Eventually, about 10min later, I attempted to start it and WOO HOO, its just started up (also only the P light on the gear indicator was lit up!) I drive it down the road about 2 miles or so and again at say 2000rpms, cruising down ANOTHER farm road, CLUNK, DEAD. THIS time, it just wont start. I left it all day and came back to it that evening...STILL DEAD. it will crank and crank but will not start up. i had AAA pick her up AGAIN and take her back to my indie. I just had my Crank Position Sensor replaced 2 weeks ago because I had a similar situation occur, but that time it WOULD start but then fall on its face when ANY gas was given... the wires on the CPS were frayed and exposed...so we replaced that and had it back on the road for like 2 weeks. Now this. I thought it might be a fuse to the fuel pump or something so i pulled the pass. footwell padding back to get the fuse box and it was all damp and stinky...I obviously have a drain that is clogged (I have to get on that one) but could this have affected the electrical components here to cause it to die? The fuses were fine btw. Based on my searching on this forum, im leaning towards a dead fuel pump. I recently had these codes come up but there was NO CEL present when the car died both times, nor were there ANY stored codes (yes i carry my OBDII reader in the glovebox!)
P1136 - Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Fuel,Bank1 System too Lean
P1138 - Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Fuel,Bank2 System too Lean
Also could this be a G28 sensor issue? I am STUMPED here. HELP A BROTHA OUT! i really want to keep this car cus its just gorgeous but if it keeps up like this i will have to sell her. dont make me do that. HELP
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that dosent make any sense...not saying your are wrong, just a lil confused how a bad battery would cause the above mentioned symptoms?
#5
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if it reoccurs and then starting.
this will also release vacum allowing the fuel pump an easier life.
If ther return line is blocked then it will starve the car for fuel.
also measuring blocks may show what is going on.
this will also release vacum allowing the fuel pump an easier life.
If ther return line is blocked then it will starve the car for fuel.
also measuring blocks may show what is going on.
#6
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The too lean (add) codes usually correspond to a vacuum leak, and won't stop the car from cruising speed.
There are plenty of things it could be. The service manual usually has good troubleshooting sequences, but is a bit thin on crank-no start. On the forum we've seen crank angle sensors, fuel pumps, and fuel pump relays do it. All of which can be tested.
Tom
There are plenty of things it could be. The service manual usually has good troubleshooting sequences, but is a bit thin on crank-no start. On the forum we've seen crank angle sensors, fuel pumps, and fuel pump relays do it. All of which can be tested.
Tom
#7
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I'm at least used to a few misfires as it dies from leanness, or rough running as it dies from richness.
Tom
Tom
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#8
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Whatever killed the engine was noticed by the transmission. Bad engine rpm data (from the crank angle sensor) might do that.
Can't see that the transmission would care if the engine quit because the fuel pressure was wrong because of a blocked line or bad tank venting.
Tom
Can't see that the transmission would care if the engine quit because the fuel pressure was wrong because of a blocked line or bad tank venting.
Tom
#9
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That's really strange.
I can see how a battery with an intermittent connection could kill the engine if the alternator and regulator can't react quickly enough to keep the voltage from collapsing either after a new load turns on or because the regulated voltage hunts absent the battery.
But healthy cranking with no start because of the battery? That's the part I don't understand. Weird...
Tom
I can see how a battery with an intermittent connection could kill the engine if the alternator and regulator can't react quickly enough to keep the voltage from collapsing either after a new load turns on or because the regulated voltage hunts absent the battery.
But healthy cranking with no start because of the battery? That's the part I don't understand. Weird...
Tom
#10
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then the fail safe will just shut things down.
It will likely be fuel related if they are the only codes he is pulling-unless there are codes in the trans or another controller.
KYNZ seems to have the same issue as before and it involved missfire on bank two.
Now it is lean on both banks.
earlier the blockage may have been incomplete lowering fuel pressure but when he now increases speed the evap system may be suffocating.
Worth a look at least.
easy to check in the blocks.
It could also be that the codes were thrown as the car died due to electrical failure shutting down the fuel pump. -So there is a bit of work to do.
I had a lot of problems with my evap valve early on and not much made sense with the symptoms
I agree the crank angle sensor is also well worth a recheck
It will likely be fuel related if they are the only codes he is pulling-unless there are codes in the trans or another controller.
KYNZ seems to have the same issue as before and it involved missfire on bank two.
Now it is lean on both banks.
earlier the blockage may have been incomplete lowering fuel pressure but when he now increases speed the evap system may be suffocating.
Worth a look at least.
easy to check in the blocks.
It could also be that the codes were thrown as the car died due to electrical failure shutting down the fuel pump. -So there is a bit of work to do.
I had a lot of problems with my evap valve early on and not much made sense with the symptoms
I agree the crank angle sensor is also well worth a recheck