PCV and new plugs installed - whattyaknow - rubber no likey oil...
#1
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FINALLY swapped out my hissing PCV atop the intake, took all of 14 seconds for the $110 part. Cracked the sucker open, ewwwwwww do those get nasty inside. The orange rubber diaphragm was MISSING A 1" section! Er uh um... gee WHERE'D *that* go??? D'oh! Munchamunchamuncha YUM!
Couldashouldawoulda done it sooner yes. Naaaa.
I wonder how long ago the thing actually failed? It was in really REALLY poor shape, the entire diaphragm was completely separated from itself.
Also swapped in some new plugs. Good news is the 112k plugs (no idea if orig. or not, inclined to think so) looked spectacular. I yanked them as I figured it couldn't hurt and
who knew their age / condition. Clean even burning on all 8. Changing 8 plugs sucks btw! Picture a twinplug 6 or a 12'er - PASS!
Hoping I'll see some MPG increase as result here, we'll see. Also that it clears my CEL, didn't have VAG handy at the moment.
I'd swap your PCVs if I were you (or whatever they're called, ETKA simply calls it "valve"). It's a shared part w/ VW FWIW...
Couldashouldawoulda done it sooner yes. Naaaa.
I wonder how long ago the thing actually failed? It was in really REALLY poor shape, the entire diaphragm was completely separated from itself.
Also swapped in some new plugs. Good news is the 112k plugs (no idea if orig. or not, inclined to think so) looked spectacular. I yanked them as I figured it couldn't hurt and
who knew their age / condition. Clean even burning on all 8. Changing 8 plugs sucks btw! Picture a twinplug 6 or a 12'er - PASS!
Hoping I'll see some MPG increase as result here, we'll see. Also that it clears my CEL, didn't have VAG handy at the moment.
I'd swap your PCVs if I were you (or whatever they're called, ETKA simply calls it "valve"). It's a shared part w/ VW FWIW...
#2
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Is it this part number? 077 103 245 B
I get this hissing noise only after HARD driving, and then quiets down. The dealer was unable to figure out where the noise is coming from. May be we can buy it from here.http://www.diytrade.com/directory/global/buy/products/3453481/China_Manufacturers-valve.html<ul><li><a href="http://www.diytrade.com/directory/global/buy/products/3148939/China_Manufacturers-valve.html">http://www.diytrade.com/directory/global/buy/products/3148939/China_Manufacturers-valve.html</a</li></ul>
I get this hissing noise only after HARD driving, and then quiets down. The dealer was unable to figure out where the noise is coming from. May be we can buy it from here.http://www.diytrade.com/directory/global/buy/products/3453481/China_Manufacturers-valve.html<ul><li><a href="http://www.diytrade.com/directory/global/buy/products/3148939/China_Manufacturers-valve.html">http://www.diytrade.com/directory/global/buy/products/3148939/China_Manufacturers-valve.html</a</li></ul>
#4
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without it the crank case would pressurize, cause piston rings to not seal as well, and could blow out seals.
Some people put a breather cap on it because they don't like the oil getting in the intake, but most racers use a pump to create a vacuum in the crankcase.
If your have issues with oil in the intake, you only need to install a oil/air separator between the valve cover and the PCV valve.
Some people put a breather cap on it because they don't like the oil getting in the intake, but most racers use a pump to create a vacuum in the crankcase.
If your have issues with oil in the intake, you only need to install a oil/air separator between the valve cover and the PCV valve.
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...removed the center cover and found it to be this valve. Course I recently bahleeted the ETKA screencapture I had of the valve out of my pic poster - Mark POLOCKollan had sent it to me I believe.
To diagnose, idle car, remove center cover, cover the "hole" on the top / right of the valve with your thumb (valve is UFO looking black plastic, top center rear of intake manifold). If it suctions your thumb to it and chokes out the motor and whooshes when you release thumb, it's shot.
Based off the amount of blech inside the failed unit, I'd say it'd passed it's service life long ago (112k today). The orange rubber was coated in gooky (technical term) oil, crusty, and just generally nasty. It flaked apart in my hand.
No other symptoms, other than a slightly high idle - I've yet to pay attention to note if that's improved since the install.
I also was getting an intermittent "hardish" start, which I've posted about here before. Basically, takes just a few more cranks to start after sitting for 4 hours. My gut tells me it's the fuel pressure regulator going, and experience with my UrS6 proved the same. I'll take 40 second $40 repairs all day so I'm hoping that's the case if the PCV (Primary / Positive Crankcase Ventilation, Bobby) didn't solve it.
Long story short - I'd replace this sucker at anything near 100k, likely sooner realistically.
YMMV, but I'm doubting it. This thing was NASTY.
To diagnose, idle car, remove center cover, cover the "hole" on the top / right of the valve with your thumb (valve is UFO looking black plastic, top center rear of intake manifold). If it suctions your thumb to it and chokes out the motor and whooshes when you release thumb, it's shot.
Based off the amount of blech inside the failed unit, I'd say it'd passed it's service life long ago (112k today). The orange rubber was coated in gooky (technical term) oil, crusty, and just generally nasty. It flaked apart in my hand.
No other symptoms, other than a slightly high idle - I've yet to pay attention to note if that's improved since the install.
I also was getting an intermittent "hardish" start, which I've posted about here before. Basically, takes just a few more cranks to start after sitting for 4 hours. My gut tells me it's the fuel pressure regulator going, and experience with my UrS6 proved the same. I'll take 40 second $40 repairs all day so I'm hoping that's the case if the PCV (Primary / Positive Crankcase Ventilation, Bobby) didn't solve it.
Long story short - I'd replace this sucker at anything near 100k, likely sooner realistically.
YMMV, but I'm doubting it. This thing was NASTY.
#6
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Hey guys new to the forums and bought a 2000 D2 6 months ago. I have the pcv whining noise and even the dealership said it was the pcv and could replace for $250. After reading this thread and finding out how easy it was to replace I went ahead and did the service myself. However, after installing the new valve I still have the obnoxious noise. Any help from you d2 vets would be greatly appreciated.
#7
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When I swapped in a cheapo replacement, it honked like a duck at idle on its first use. Cleaned out my original with hot soapy water, re-installed it and good to go for 3+ years and counting. Is it a hiss or a honk?
OEM is the way to go with this part. My apologies to your wallet.
OEM is the way to go with this part. My apologies to your wallet.
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#8
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The ABS case of the pcv valve is in two parts. The top part which clips in to the bottom part vibrates. Strange forces give it a resonant frequency which attracts moose and scares small dogs. Take off the pcv (takes 2 min.) apply epoxy putty to each clip and all around where the top and bottom parts meet. Let it set (min 8 hrs), re-install (takes 3 min) and enjoy peace and tranqulity again. Works with any pcv, cheap or expensive - I had three honkers, as I kept replacing them.
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