PaulW

I've had a chance to look at your fault codes, you posted a few of them, half are tranny:

<b>Transmission Codes</b>
17125 and PO 741
17119 and PO 735
17116 and PO 732
17114 and PO 730
17087 and PO 703

Most of them are implausable singals that were logged by the transmission control unit. Once it sees an implausable singnal, it will store it as a fault code until it is manually cleared with the VAG-COM software.

17087 is nothing, they just didn't push the brake pedal first.

17114 is "gear incorrect ratio", could be the following from the Bently: dirty ATF or level not ok, clutch slipping or malfunctioning, Solenoid valve dirty or malfunctioning, Sensor for transmission RPM -G182- malfunctioning, Sender for transmission output RPM -G195- malfunctioning, TCM incorrect or incorrectly coded

17116 and 19 - are incorrect gear ratios....I would say from another implausable signal.

17125 is Torque Converter Clutch Circ. performance or stuck off. Could be: ATF level not OK , Malfunctioning or incorrect torque converter, Mechanical malfunction in pressure control valve 4 -N218-, Malfunctions in ATF feed to pressure control valve 4 -N218-, Valve for converter pressure malfunctioning, Valve for converter clutch malfunctioning, Clutch for torque converter malfunctioning or worn, Malfunction in electrical triggering of pressure control valve 4 -N218-

As you can see, nothing states that there is a need to replace the transmission control unit.

It appears that there could be foreign material in your ATF and needs to be changed, or a solenoid valve that is improperly operating (possibly due to foreign material or an electrical fault).

Using the VAG-COM software, you could do an output test and check for fault codes of the solenoid valves.

Also check measuring blocks, display group 007 ( page 01-80 ) with torque converter bridge clutch closed (lock-up torque converter clutch applied) and check torque converter stall speed.

All of these checks are free and easy with the software. If your mechanic is not capable of performing this checks, find one that is.

<b>Engine Faults</b>
You have two misfires on 3 and 7, if you erase these codes, do them come back? If not, they could just be spurious, I've had them before.

If the engine runs fine, no problem. You also have an evaporative system fault too. Once again, nothing that should effect performance.

The P1624 is another engine code, can't remember what MIL stands for.....it says "MIL Request Sign. active", check Check DTC memory via "Automatic Test Sequence" by inserting address word "00"

Maybe it's just telling you that a fault code is present?

Anyway, I would either do the tranny checks outlined above before changing the fluid and filter.....see if you get any fault codes. The output test must be performed before checking for codes.

Then get the fluid and filter changed, and if you find that one of the solenoid valves is bad during the test above, you can change it at the same time.

I would not purchase a new transmission control unit, I don't think it will do anything for you.

I would not be surprised if a fluid/filter change would help things significantly, and beyond that it might just need a solenoid valve. Worse case you need a rebuilt unit.

Good luck!

seanA8

Thank you. Where do I purchase a selenoid valve? Curry charged me 4 hours or $360 to tell me what you already told me three weeks ago. I am taking it to another shop on Monday. He quoted me 3 hours at $55 to tune up the car and flush transmission fluid. I am supplying all the parts. We are hoping the tune up will take care of engine codes and transmission flush will clear up trans codes.

Sbelden had the output box issue. Do you think I could have the same issue? Where do I get selenoid valve parts? I like the picture with your son as the mechanic. I was in shock the first time I saw my complete front end off my car. Thanks again for your time.

Sean

PaulW

Or maybe they could be had from a tranny shop that can get them from ZF through a distributor.

Don't buy any until you do more troubleshooting. You don't know if you need a two position or a regulating valve, if any at all.

If the engine runs fine, then there is no need to tune it up unless you've never changed the plugs. What is he doing to tune it up beside change plugs?

Do the filter and fluid and see what happens.

Erase all fault codes on the engine and tranny.

pw

PaulW

So should I send you an invoice for $360 too? ;-)

seanA8

I had a tune up exactly two years ago to the month or 20k miles ago. I thought newer plugs or a tune up may take care of some of the engine codes. I was thinking the engine codes were throwing off the transmission. It's worth an extra $100 to make sure the engine is running perfrectly in this case. I want to absolutely isolate it as a transmission issue.

I had the check engine light go on this summer. I opened the gas cap and the issue went away. I would love to have this go away but want to isolate the issue so it is resolved.

I am in walking distance to the VW dealer where this mechanic worked. I hope the VW dealer has the selonoid if this is the case. Thanks again.

Karpedmman

Sean- It sure sounds like your car is running fine and therefore don't "throw" $195 at the power output stage. I had checked everything from the spark plugs, Fuel injection output (pulled entire fuel rail) Finally boiled it down to checking the wiring from the #3 coil pack to Power output stage (POS), wiring ok. checked wiring from the otherside of the power output stage to the ECU. This was more difficult because the Fluke meter couldn't fit into the hole on the ECU connector plug-used a paper clip to extend the fluke tester-this wiring was OK. Finally switched out the POS -there are two- and the Misfire code moved to the #4 cylinder. This was exactly the cylinder that plugged into the other corresponding POS. Once I discovered this I knew I was ready for spending the $195 for the POS.
If your car is running on eight cylinders and you don't have any noticable running problems don't was money - in my opinion on doing the POS. The fact that your Check engine light is NOT on tells me that your misfire codes could be from last Summer when your CEL came on and you fixed it by opening the gas cap.

I, ABSOLUTELY agree with PaulW that you should make sure the shop is very familiar with the Ross-tech software or Vagcom 1551 or 1552. The shop I was using was NOT familiar with the software therefore I knew I could do better than them by purchasing the Ross-tech software and bentley Manual on CD-AND I DID! Do what Paul indicated in that order, and see if that helps. Good Luck! Stuart

Karpedmman

Surfing "THE Forum" on a Saturday night....

escapA8

Hey, where's JimR, SkiRacer, A8-911-Odyssey, mclarenm8d, Jkay, bpower1, Paldi, 2turbos1A4forsale, KaMaKaZieP, Mr. Ricco, greenie and all the others?

Karpedmman

They have a life!

JimR

Naah, I was asleep. I intend on going back to sleep, in a few minutes.