Timing is not right
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During timing belt job I took a break to change the valve cover gaskets. First side done and looks good. Second one (drivers side) I noticed the timing was off. Remember I am also doing the timing and the cam is in the lock. Is this normal? The other side was dead on why is this one not? Please help.
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Is this something I can fix or is it normal?
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Is this something I can fix or is it normal?
#3
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Seems to be a common indexing problem on 32V's. I've lost count of the times I've seen almost this exact photo.
Timing is definitely off there...can cause rough running and "maybe" even misfires.
Here's my answer (theory, from looking at Bentley...NOT their procedure..none given) for the correction of this problem in link below. BUT the poster did not respond to let me know if this method did the trick or he used an alternate method.
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...ight=cam+chain
I haven't actually done this (mine's a 40V with a MUCH different cam chain set-up)...so I have posted your question on another forum, where I know other posters have had the same indexing problem and have corrected it...how? ...hopefully we will soon find out.
So, don't try my suggested method till we know more.
Timing is definitely off there...can cause rough running and "maybe" even misfires.
Here's my answer (theory, from looking at Bentley...NOT their procedure..none given) for the correction of this problem in link below. BUT the poster did not respond to let me know if this method did the trick or he used an alternate method.
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...ight=cam+chain
I haven't actually done this (mine's a 40V with a MUCH different cam chain set-up)...so I have posted your question on another forum, where I know other posters have had the same indexing problem and have corrected it...how? ...hopefully we will soon find out.
So, don't try my suggested method till we know more.
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Remember I have the TB off (mouse nest, see other post) and the wheels off. All I can come up with is to finish the entire job but leave that wheel loose. Grab a rough part of the cam with a vise-grips from inside the valve cover. Take the lock off and line up the timing and tighten down the wheel. Not sure if that is cool to do with a vise-grip but after all the craziness of doing this job it must be perfect.
#5
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Remember I have the TB off (mouse nest, see other post) and the wheels off. All I can come up with is to finish the entire job but leave that wheel loose. Grab a rough part of the cam with a vise-grips from inside the valve cover. Take the lock off and line up the timing and tighten down the wheel. Not sure if that is cool to do with a vise-grip but after all the craziness of doing this job it must be perfect.
There should be a hex end on the intake cam, made just for this (small adjustment)...see drawing.
Also take a look at this post about your post & photos, from a smart guy:
http://forums.quattroworld.com/a8/msgs/59335.phtml
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Finally done. I put the care and time that a watchmaker does. Very un watchmaker like, I did use a vice-grip on the cam to do the final adjustment to the driver side cam. It worked great!
One more item to note to anyone doing this job. Please pull apart the oil pump pulley. Change the seal and make note of the intermediate bearing. Mine did move but is was not easy. I can not stop thinking about how much power over time this bearing has taken.
One more item to note to anyone doing this job. Please pull apart the oil pump pulley. Change the seal and make note of the intermediate bearing. Mine did move but is was not easy. I can not stop thinking about how much power over time this bearing has taken.
#7
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Finally done. I put the care and time that a watchmaker does. Very un watchmaker like, I did use a vice-grip on the cam to do the final adjustment to the driver side cam. It worked great!
One more item to note to anyone doing this job. Please pull apart the oil pump pulley. Change the seal and make note of the intermediate bearing. Mine did move but is was not easy. I can not stop thinking about how much power over time this bearing has taken.
One more item to note to anyone doing this job. Please pull apart the oil pump pulley. Change the seal and make note of the intermediate bearing. Mine did move but is was not easy. I can not stop thinking about how much power over time this bearing has taken.
They eliminated that on 40V motors (I'm glad)...it's all internal...no outer oil pump pulley to leak.
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That is part of it. Mine was not leaking but I had a extra seal and had seen a picture of that bearing gone real bad. When I took it apart it was easy to see that it would have failed sometime. If it spins nice and smooth and does not leak, great, but my guess is that more people are leaving that part for unknowing trouble.
Thank you silverd2 for all your help here and other forums.
I can not wait to do it again... yes, yes, I can, how about 100,000 more miles. I cleaned all the parts and bolts. Replaced any that had rust or looked questionable. (many trips to the dealer) Lots of Anti-seize too. The next time should go smooth.
Thank you silverd2 for all your help here and other forums.
I can not wait to do it again... yes, yes, I can, how about 100,000 more miles. I cleaned all the parts and bolts. Replaced any that had rust or looked questionable. (many trips to the dealer) Lots of Anti-seize too. The next time should go smooth.
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