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Transmission problem....help...

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Old 05-04-2011, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by igotav8
Replace the o-rings on the trans cooler lines in to the radiator. Drop pan and change filter. Flush trans by pulling return line and filling trans and running clean fluid through the entire system. Once fluid runs clean refill so it's full and try it. That's what worked for me. Same symptoms as yours. No guarantees but worth a try. I did mine 15,000 miles ago. Once again, no guarantees but worth a try.
OK. let me see if I got this.....I should flush the fluid via the return line, and NOT the drain lug on the pan.........? and in this case, the return line would be the left or right side hose (taking the highlighted picture I uploaded in to consideration)

.....also, what o rings??? the hoses that go in and out seem only to be held by a simple tightening clamp ( don't know if that is the correct word/name)

Also, would I be wise in just trying to add fluid as is to see if there is some kind of "sign of life" just to avoid dropping serious cash on atf fluid, I mean, I WILL buy it if if is required, just don't want to drop 150+ buxs in fluid to find out trans is blown.....I mean, if the transmission is blown, I need to save some serious cash to have it rebuilt....

Thanks for the reply!!!

Last edited by Cks69; 05-04-2011 at 09:43 AM.
Old 05-04-2011, 09:49 AM
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your transmission is toast, you need a vagcom to read the codes, but it will most likely be incorrect gear ratio which is a cracked clutch basket as Tozo already stated.

-Richard
Old 05-04-2011, 09:53 AM
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I didn't see your codes I just looked back. You definitely need a rebuild...

-Richard
Old 05-04-2011, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by audinutt
I didn't see your codes I just looked back. You definitely need a rebuild...

-Richard
....so there is no way that MAYBE, JUST MAYBE, the lack of fluid could be the culprit....and should go straight to a rebuild.....??

Thanks!!!!!!
Old 05-04-2011, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Cks69
....so there is no way that MAYBE, JUST MAYBE, the lack of fluid could be the culprit....and should go straight to a rebuild.....??

Thanks!!!!!!
Fill 'er up and see. It's only a couple hundred dollars more....
I'd use genuine Audi fluid, filter, etc. Blauparts has a kit for $115 http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail....od=F2A1005%2DA

Limp mode is an Audi owners worst nightmare. Well, mine at least.


No sure what Audi's you've owned before or if this is your first.
Plan for most dealer services to run at least $2,000 each.
I think oil changes run about $150, I'm not due for awhile.
Got my 05 in February - so far $2,400 for timing belt, $1,400 for tires, $300 for a new key/programming, and $800 for misc trim items.
VCDS and Bentley are a priceless combo to have if you keep the car.
Get to know a qualified indy you can trust too!

Last edited by jakematic; 05-04-2011 at 12:21 PM.
Old 05-04-2011, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jakematic
Fill 'er up and see. It's only a couple hundred dollars more....
I'd use genuine Audi fluid, filter, etc. Blauparts has a kit for $115 http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail....od=F2A1005%2DA

Limp mode is an Audi owners worst nightmare. Well, mine at least.


No sure what Audi's you've owned before or if this is your first.
Plan for most dealer services to run at least $2,000 each.
I think oil changes run about $150, I'm not due for awhile.
Got my 05 in February - so far $2,400 for timing belt, $1,400 for tires, $300 for a new key/programming, and $800 for misc trim items.
VCDS and Bentley are a priceless combo to have if you keep the car.
Get to know a qualified indy you can trust too!
this is my second one.....first was a 1992 100cs 5spd 2.8, which is my daily driver......

Fortunately (I believe), this a8l has everything I can think of..... 18" pie plates on near new Michelin's, nav, summer package, key less, cd changer, only 95k miles, rear curtain, looks like the fans have been replaced with new ones as they look close to new, etc etc....

I have been around cars for about 16 yrs., and I am a DIY guy, except for major repairs (engine, transmission, but I usually do the small stuff....I do part time every now and them helping a freind of mine who is a locksmith, so key issues wont be an issu (knock on wood, hehehe)

....and to add something extra, I am from south of the border, so labor is much much much cheaper here than in the USA........been asking around and the highest quote for a full rebuild has been 1600.00 out the door....and as low as 1200.00.....one shop even offered me to replace only what is broken for around 600-800 buxs.....but hey, I will sit down and think about all the options in case the inevitable happens....

.....I REALLY REALLY want to AVOID this, but if I have no alternative, I will just have to sit the car a few months and save up some cash....

Will try to pump some fluid today and see if there are any signs of life......will update asap...

I have a caviar taste with a rice and beans budget......
Old 05-04-2011, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Cks69
I have a caviar taste with a rice and beans budget......
Most of us are the same. That's why we aren't posting over on the D4 forum

Sounds like you have the car you really want.
I hope it works out for you.

Keep us posted!
Old 05-04-2011, 04:52 PM
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[QUOTE=Cks69;24139885]this is my second one.....first was a 1992 100cs 5spd 2.8, which is my daily driver......

Go to your VW dealer and buy some fluid if you want to stick with pentosin. Pump it up in P engine running and see if it fixes it. You have to be at least 4 qt low to slip like that. If it was mine I would just use Mobil 1 to see if low fluid is the problem. It will cost you $40. If it fixes it just change the fluid and filter. ( I doubt it, they knew it is toast and probably a bunch of people tried it on the parking lot before they gave up on it)
http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articl...servicing.html
Old 05-04-2011, 05:42 PM
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It's worth a try to fill it up and try. Like I saidmine had all the signs and codes of a broken clutch basket. incorrect ratio code, limp mode wouldn't move etc. I pulled the plug and got one cup of fluid out. Flushed it multiple times and replaced filter etc. I've been driving it for 15,000 miles now and it's still going. My valve body is worn but otherwise it works just fine. Remember there's no guarantee but if it works it's far cheaper than a new trans. Good luck
Old 05-04-2011, 10:03 PM
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[QUOTE=tozoM8;24139948]
Originally Posted by Cks69
this is my second one.....first was a 1992 100cs 5spd 2.8, which is my daily driver......

Go to your VW dealer and buy some fluid if you want to stick with pentosin. Pump it up in P engine running and see if it fixes it. You have to be at least 4 qt low to slip like that. If it was mine I would just use Mobil 1 to see if low fluid is the problem. It will cost you $40. If it fixes it just change the fluid and filter. ( I doubt it, they knew it is toast and probably a bunch of people tried it on the parking lot before they gave up on it)
http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articl...servicing.html
well..........I already bought some fluid here south of the border....35.00 buxs for 2 quarts (pentosil/imported).....my mechanic/friend said that 2 would be enough just to test, if I where to need more there is a european shop about 2 blocks away........hehehe....stealership had them for 22.00+ and they give me a 20% discount and charge me no sale tax (dealer license/resellers permit)

If I/we see any signs of life I will immediately drop the pan, change the filter and do a refill.........already got a filter and gasket I got from craigslit yesterday for 15 buxs (meyle, and new)

....on a side note.....I raised up the car to see if I could ad the fluid myself, ( and couldn't because of lack of time, and lack of tools, and noticed that there was actually drops on fluid dripping on my shirt on the side of the hoses of the pictures I uploaded.....he told me we would add the fluid tomorrow as he had a ton of work, and the lift was being used by him on another job......

....and about a bunch of people driving the car in the lot, I doubt it as there is 24 hr security, no one can enter the auction site, and no keys are ever present in the lot.....all keys are locked up and are not taken out until you go and pay for the car...also, all cars regarding their condition are taken in to the lot in tow trucks....no driving is allowed in the lot....(just wanted to point that out)

Anything special about the hoses that (apparently) may be leaking?

Will keep you posted, and THANKS ALL FOR YOUR REPLY'S!!!!!!!!!

Last edited by Cks69; 05-04-2011 at 10:32 PM.


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