trunk release issue-something else for all to check
#1
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I do not remember reading anything on this but something else for all to look at on their cars.
The small vacuum line for the trunk release on my 2000 is clipped to the left trunk hinge and somewhat covered by a plastic trim piece. The hose is clipped into the plastic trim, holding it very close to the metal hinge. After 8+ years the metal hinge had rubbed a small hole in the rubber hose.
The trunk release still worked, I just happened to catch it while cleaning the car.
Easy fix, it had rubbed a hole in the rubber where it slides on the plastic tube that runs down the side of the trunk opening and into the car, just remove the rubber hose, I was able to cut the bad 1/2" section off of the end and push it back onto the plastic tube.
The small vacuum line for the trunk release on my 2000 is clipped to the left trunk hinge and somewhat covered by a plastic trim piece. The hose is clipped into the plastic trim, holding it very close to the metal hinge. After 8+ years the metal hinge had rubbed a small hole in the rubber hose.
The trunk release still worked, I just happened to catch it while cleaning the car.
Easy fix, it had rubbed a hole in the rubber where it slides on the plastic tube that runs down the side of the trunk opening and into the car, just remove the rubber hose, I was able to cut the bad 1/2" section off of the end and push it back onto the plastic tube.
#4
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When I first got my car, I couldn't figure out why the fuel flap didn't lock with the rest of the vehicle. I was about to uncover quite a chain reaction scenario...
After a while I realize that the little sidemarker light on the rear passenger side is burnt out. I set out to replace it, and realize that the light had slipped out of the tail light, and melted through my fuel filler vacuum line!!!
So I take apart a bit of the trunk in order to access the problem. I replace the melted vacuum line with a new piece of line, and voila, it works! I now know why I heard a hissing noise every time the vacuum pump operated.
Only minutes after I fix my fuel filler line, I realize my interior trunk release button now functions! I put 2 and 2 together and came to this conclusion:
When the fuel flap's vacuum line was melted and leaking, it was also causing the trunk's vaccuum line, to lose enough pressure that it was no longer effective at locking/unlocking the trunk.
Because of this, the trunk was always in the locked position. This was why my door jamb button never worked. The stangest thing is that this did not affect ANY other means of opening the trunk! When using the key fob, it actuates a different mechanism that operates independent of the "lock status" of the trunk. The same thing as well can be said for the manual trunk release. When I pushed in the lock cylinder, it would still pop open.
Sorry for the long-winded post there, but I wanted to describe what happened to me.
It was like a light came on in my head, and everything MADE SENSE now.
***UPDATE***
This is also why my central locking pump would run for 30 seconds before shutting off. I didn't know any better, as it had always run like that
since I bought the car. I think I actually first discovered the problem when I read somewhere about the pump running for longer than x seconds was indicative of a leak in the system
After a while I realize that the little sidemarker light on the rear passenger side is burnt out. I set out to replace it, and realize that the light had slipped out of the tail light, and melted through my fuel filler vacuum line!!!
So I take apart a bit of the trunk in order to access the problem. I replace the melted vacuum line with a new piece of line, and voila, it works! I now know why I heard a hissing noise every time the vacuum pump operated.
Only minutes after I fix my fuel filler line, I realize my interior trunk release button now functions! I put 2 and 2 together and came to this conclusion:
When the fuel flap's vacuum line was melted and leaking, it was also causing the trunk's vaccuum line, to lose enough pressure that it was no longer effective at locking/unlocking the trunk.
Because of this, the trunk was always in the locked position. This was why my door jamb button never worked. The stangest thing is that this did not affect ANY other means of opening the trunk! When using the key fob, it actuates a different mechanism that operates independent of the "lock status" of the trunk. The same thing as well can be said for the manual trunk release. When I pushed in the lock cylinder, it would still pop open.
Sorry for the long-winded post there, but I wanted to describe what happened to me.
It was like a light came on in my head, and everything MADE SENSE now.
***UPDATE***
This is also why my central locking pump would run for 30 seconds before shutting off. I didn't know any better, as it had always run like that
since I bought the car. I think I actually first discovered the problem when I read somewhere about the pump running for longer than x seconds was indicative of a leak in the system
#5
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My trunk open indicator light is on all the time. This causes no horn sound when remote locking so I never trust it. Where is the sensor located so I may effect change?
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