upper control arm replacement
#1
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Guys, I replaced all 8 arms and tie rod ends for Paul's business partner this weekend. Click on my picture poster for a couple of shots of the upper subframe. Few comments:
1) Paul provided the kit from ECS which comes with all of the hardware including the long bolt for the curved arm. This should be loosened and then cutoff as discussed before. I have done it both ways and this is far easier. Paul, how much was the kit ?
2) If you're competent enough to do the lowers, you can handle the upper arms as well. Each strut tower has a plastic cover which needs to be removed. Once the cover is removed, look for the four nuts (see pic for approx positions) and remove them. Two of the nuts thread onto the bolt which attaches each arm to the subframe. The other two thread onto short studs which you'll see in the picture. With a little wiggling the whole subframe drops down and out.
The straight arm has a circlip which you'll need to take off first. Both arms have a metal spacer with a taper on one side. These might fall out when the subframe is removed. No big deal - the taper faces down. Just make sure that they are there when you reassemble. Install the new arms onto the subframe and reinstall the whole assembly.
3) Make sure that you either jack up the suspension or wait until the car is on the ground before torquing everything down.
Hope that helps...
Bob
1) Paul provided the kit from ECS which comes with all of the hardware including the long bolt for the curved arm. This should be loosened and then cutoff as discussed before. I have done it both ways and this is far easier. Paul, how much was the kit ?
2) If you're competent enough to do the lowers, you can handle the upper arms as well. Each strut tower has a plastic cover which needs to be removed. Once the cover is removed, look for the four nuts (see pic for approx positions) and remove them. Two of the nuts thread onto the bolt which attaches each arm to the subframe. The other two thread onto short studs which you'll see in the picture. With a little wiggling the whole subframe drops down and out.
The straight arm has a circlip which you'll need to take off first. Both arms have a metal spacer with a taper on one side. These might fall out when the subframe is removed. No big deal - the taper faces down. Just make sure that they are there when you reassemble. Install the new arms onto the subframe and reinstall the whole assembly.
3) Make sure that you either jack up the suspension or wait until the car is on the ground before torquing everything down.
Hope that helps...
Bob
#3
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For about the last month and a half I've been noticing a knock on the drivers side over med. to large size bumps and a creak when I break hard. I don't know what bushings or control arms are worn out. Once it gets worse I think I'll just get the kit and replace everything but from what I hear, it's a real bugger.
#4
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in the process. Local dealer quoted $1,000/labor to replace just the arms and you know the parts are going to twice the price too. Plenty of people here to help if you get stuck.
#6
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Be careful !! These have been scams in most cases. That price seems too good to be true.
If it's real it looks like the right one. I have my doubts though...
If it's real it looks like the right one. I have my doubts though...
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#8
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(The one in the crossed out picture). Tom was very cool to deal with, and shipped quickly. Delivered, $485. Very high quality looking components, all hardware included, in original Meyle packaging. These 2 guys are having a bitter price war on ebay right now--- we win! (I have no affiliation) The only thing not included in the kit is the sway bar links. I still haven't taken the car apart to find out if the straight arms will work-- that was the only component in doubt-- but I believe they will.
#9
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for my A8L. I got it back last week and this thing drives like a new car and the noise is gone. Also replaced the rear sway bar due to the enlarged holes from missing bushings, flushed the brake fluid and filled, installed a new alum. bar near the tranny, replaced the tie-rods, all control arms, alignment. Paid $2,500 for everything including labor.